I have been having a hard time figuring out what is causing a hard start condition on a 2003 CALIFORNIA 7.3 F350 super duty. Replaced the glow plugs and the under valve cover wiring harness, replaced the GPCM. Truck will not start if it sits for more than 5-6 hours, unless the engine block heater is plugged into 120volt. Current outside temps are in the 90-100 degree range.
Truck runs ok once started if plugged in, if not plugged in it requires starting fluid to start and once started will run like it is on one cylinder for a while and after about 10 minutes will gradually start idling smoothly.
Any Ideas??

Thank you in advance

 

Moved to 7.3 forum for more specific help, welcome to FTE as well.

 

Welcome to FTE. If you've done that much work, it sounds like you're up for the next task, but lets do a check first before we spend any more of your money.

Pull the valve covers back off and start the truck up when cold. What you're describing sounds like worn injectors. When you crank the truck, watch for the oil discharge at each of the injectors (oil discharge port is at 11:00)



What you will likely see is several injectors not spitting enough oil. I don't recommend ether, but if you must use starting fluid, disconnect the GPCM before you spray any. You can also plug the truck in for a little while so it just barely starts without the ether.

When the truck does start, watch again the oil discharge from each injector. Count how many are spitting a good amount of oil and how many don't seem to be doing much. As the truck warms up and starts to smooth out, watch to see if those injectors that don't spit oil properly begin to spit oil like the working injectors.

When warmed up they will all spit oil about the same. If this is the case, you've got worn internals in your injectors and it's time to spend some money.

If not, and you see oil bubbling up from the base of an injector or two, or they all seem to be spitting oil the proper amount when cold and hot, then we'll move on to something else before you spend more money.

 

Thank you for the help. I was thinking that this may be the cause because there was no codes. It will be monday before I can pull the valve covers, so I will post what I find. My next question what are my options and approximate costs of getting rebuilt injectors or rebuilding them myself or will they need to be replaced? and are there any upgrades I should do at the same time? The truck also has a Banks upgrade on it and a Banks Brake both since the truck was new.

The truck weighs about 11,800, has a 12 dog chasis mount on it is a crew cab F350 4X4 SRW, and has 60 gallon water tank, four 12 volt batteries twin alternator etc. on summer trips it pulls a 5,000lb travel trailer with 1,000 lbs of dog food also. It has never had an easy life ha ha.

The quote I got for new injectors was $315 each x 8= $2500

Thank you again!

 

Riffraff Diesel Performance Parts: Diesel Fuel System | Diesel fuel injectors | Ford Powerstroke fuel injectors | 7.3L Fuel Injector - Injectors

Look there. Alliant stock oem injectors 212 ea + tax=savings of 1200.

Full force stock 136 each. I have no idea about the stage 1 etc but somebody else may be able to jump in with that

Its possible for the hyd part of the inj to be all scored up and not working and the computer not ever know it since it only reads the electrical part.

 

If I may: Riffraff Diesel Performance Parts: Diesel fuel injectors | Ford Powerstroke fuel injectors | 7.3L Fuel Injector - Full Force Diesel / Casserly

 

Ok tried start today and definitely have 2 injectors that are not pumping out oil even after running for 5-6 minutes. When I started the truck it was plugged in for a bit to get it to start and I left it plugged in to long so it was too warm for test but still had the 2 injectors not pumping. I am going to redo the cold start in the morning and double check.

I have heard that you can shim the poppet valves to get the injectors working again? Clearance should be .002-.004? I have done a search for shims but haven't found any?

All help is very appreciated.

Thank you everyone

 

Trying to shim it is just a temporary band aid. You're better off replacing the two injectors if they are that worn. Then start saving up for the other 6 since they are likely not far behind.

We have several sponsors who can get you a deal on rebuilt injectors.

 

OK wanted to put up an update. went ahead and replaced the injectors. for those considering doing it yourself it is very straight forward. The basics are
1. Remove what you need to remove valve covers and remove valve covers.
2. remove plug on top of high pressure oil pump and suck out oil with either a large 60cc syringe and a piece of vacuum tubing, or a mitey-vac vacuum test tool ($35).
3. get a clean rag ready and remove the bottom bolt that holds the injector in and the injector wiring plug (clip just snaps back). DO NOT REMOVE UPPER BOLT
4. gently pry out injector and quickly stuff clean rag in hole .
5. remove all injectors stuffing all holes as quickly as possible. (make sure the copper washer on bottom of injector tip is on each injector as it comes out.
6. remove rags and use the syringe or mighty vac to suck out each cylinder by feeding vacuum tubing through the bottom of injector hole.
7. rotate motor over by turning crank with a 15/16ths socket on the dampner bolt on crankshaft. go very slowly the first time around and place heavy towels over the injector holes. rotate thru several times.
8. replace injectors, coating O rings with a lot of oil before sliding in. tap top of injector with fist to seat. tighten bottom bolt to 10ft/lbs.Make sure copper washer stays on bottom of injector.
9. add oil to high pressure oil pump reservoir. Use 60cc syringe thru top plug, takes about 2 quarts.
10 make sure the two electrical connectors that go under valve covers are disconnected and turn key on for 30 seconds (do not crank). turn off key and wait 90 seconds, repeat 4-6 times.
11 crank engine for about 30-40 seconds and wait 15 minutes repeat 4-5 times. after a few times you should see pressure on oil gauge.
12 finish putting together everything you took apart while waiting the 15 minute periods.
13 connect the valve cover electrical connectors and then start truck.

 

Truck started after replacing injectors and idled perfectly smooth. Drove truck 50 miles and it smoothed out as driving. his morning went out and started truck on first try, something that would have never happened before unless the truck heater was plugged in to house.
measured the armature clearance on a few of the old injectors and they were all less than .0015" clearance. clearly the injectors were worn as new the clearance is .0040".
The truck had close to 400,000 miles on it and these were the original injectors. the truck weighs 11,000lbs empty and 13,000+ full plus often tows trailers.


Thank you everyone!

 

Mine had about 320K when I went to Stage I injectors. The truck still ran and drove properly, but the injectors were tired, mileage and power were down even with a chip. I immediately felt a difference even without the chip on for the Stage I's.

Almost two years later, it was a wise invesment on my part, the truck is a real beast now.

Glad yours is running properly again!!!

 

Where did u get the injectors?

 

Yes this made the power come back up! the truck has a 2002 Banks system on it (wheel and chip etc...) also has a bigger air filter but is pretty stock other than that.
I should probably add on a bigger turbo back exhaust and maybe a water injection kit to boost fuel mileage a bit. Hoping it gets back to the 17-18mpg it was getting a few years ago.

 

Ended up getting them from a local auto parts store, Couldn't wait to get the ones from an online place though that would have saved about $300-$400. Ended up being $1800 with tax vs $1235 plus about $200-$300 for next day air shipping to get them from an online store. If you are going to do an injector replacement you might consider replacing glow plugs and the under valve cover wiring harness at the same time. That will only a bit more to the job.

 

With the glow plugs, make sure you use motorcraft or beru. Never autolite as they have a tendency to swell and break off into the top of the piston. Most people remove the glow plugs during the inj change in case they did not get all the fluid out of the cylinder when the spin it over for the first time. Kind of a back up.

Glad u got it running right again.