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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

2006 6.0 OVERHEATING WHEN PULLING TRAILER

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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 06:45 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by tbax46
I have the same symptoms with a 04 6.0. Some hills nothing, then another one that was 6% and 4% mixed for about 8 miles. Just as I reach the summit, the heat guage climbs just to the point where it turns on the check guage light. Then as I level off and start down, the temp guage returns to normal level. I'm not puking any coolant and I have new gaskets and ARP studs and bolts. Also have new oil cooler, egr delete and complete system flush. I generally keep the rpms no higher than 2600 during the climb.
Try dropping it one more gear. I've done some of the 7% grades on 100 degree days aproaching 3,000 rpms. When I dropped that last gear the temp. dropped dramatically due to the gearing now doing the work.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 10:37 AM
  #17  
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RPMs mean your water pump is pumping more water and your fan on high duty cycle can move much more air. We need digital gauge numbers to help you, without the exact temps and how your fan is running and at what stage we can't disentangle what is wrong here. My fan is on low at about 210, at 215 it hits madium, at 218 it hits high. It will bring temps down fast once on high, especially if it's got the engine rpm to move the coolant and fan air. Scan gauge two, or above torque app suggestions are much more economical solutions that buying gauges. Only downside is no pyro, but you have one of those already.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 11:03 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Cracker Pack
I have a 2006 F250 XLT crew cab 4x4 with a 6.0 PSD that overheats when pulling my 20 ft. toy hauler up hills. I have replaced the EGR with a bulletproof about 2 years ago. Recently on a camp trip had to take the truck into the shop 6 hours from home (not cheap). Replaced the oil cooler, replaced the degas bottle, rebuilt the center section on the turbo. Thought that would stop the overheating, it didn't. When pulling my trailer, maybe 6k lbs. loaded, steady inclines at 55 mph cause coolant gauge to shoot up to almost red. If I let off a little and ease it over hill it immediately drops heading down the backside of the hill. Fan comes on at the slightest gradual incline and continues until cruising down the hill for a couple minutes. Flushed coolant every year before I start pulling trailer for the summer. Always have some puking out of degas even with brand new tank and cap. I should be able to cruise this truck and trailer up the hills without and heating up. I see all the guys pulling triple axle 40 ft. trailers everywhere and I feel like my truck is struggling. I'd appreciate any intel.
Which coolant are you using, only use the Gold Premium. Also, test your cap to see if it is holding 16 PSI, if not change. A cap that does not hold proper PSI can cause the coolant to boil prematurely. Do you have a EGR delete (is that what the bullet proof is?) if not, pull your EGR valve and clean it. If it is clogged, it can cause the engine to work harder. Also I read somewhere on this forum-can not remember where-that it is normal and ok for the gauges to go up and down when pulling loads. But, I don't know, just a different avenue to research and familiarize yourself the more with the 6l engine.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 11:11 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by tbax46
I have the same symptoms with a 04 6.0. Some hills nothing, then another one that was 6% and 4% mixed for about 8 miles. Just as I reach the summit, the heat guage climbs just to the point where it turns on the check guage light. Then as I level off and start down, the temp guage returns to normal level. I'm not puking any coolant and I have new gaskets and ARP studs and bolts. Also have new oil cooler, egr delete and complete system flush. I generally keep the rpms no higher than 2600 during the climb.
On this forum somewhere, they say that this gauge going up and down when pulling loads up hills are normal for the 6.0.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 03:11 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by SPD&PWR
On this forum somewhere, they say that this gauge going up and down when pulling loads up hills are normal for the 6.0.
I've never seen or heard or experienced that so I'm calling BS. The factory gauge is nothing but a cold/normal/hot idiot light with a needle. I'm not saying it's not posted in this forum somewhere but it's definitely not normal.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 03:34 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 69cj
Try dropping it one more gear. I've done some of the 7% grades on 100 degree days aproaching 3,000 rpms. When I dropped that last gear the temp. dropped dramatically due to the gearing now doing the work.
I'm new to diesel towing, my previous 10 years experience was with a V-10 and the best way for it was to hit almost 4,000 rpms and everything stayed normal.
Is higher rpms better for the diesel or is around 2,000 better? Also someone mentioned an android for monitoring. Need an explanation a web site to go to learn about these.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 04:03 PM
  #22  
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How it works.

The Torque website.
Torque — OBD2 Performance and Diagnostics for your Vehicle
You will also need a Bluetooth adapter like this.
ELM327 Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Reader | Torque Android App
Amazon has good prices.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 04:05 PM
  #23  
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Download the Torque Lite in the android market and you can play with the program some. Then if you like the app, purchase the Pro version . You will also need a Bluetooth adapter for your OBD2 port so it will communicate. Instead of trying to have someone explain it, its easier to just download the light version and learn for yourself, plus its free.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 04:09 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
I've never seen or heard or experienced that so I'm calling BS. The factory gauge is nothing but a cold/normal/hot idiot light with a needle. I'm not saying it's not posted in this forum somewhere but it's definitely not normal.
Yeah, that is definitely not normal. If the gauge moves past the midway point, it is time to back out of the throttle and then stop if it doesn't move back down.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by big inch
Yeah, that is definitely not normal. If the gauge moves past the midway point, it is time to back out of the throttle and then stop if it doesn't move back down.
So house divided; some say's yes, some say's no-their experiences, their perspective-to me it would not seem normal, but again, I am new in the diesel world.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 05:27 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by tbax46
I'm new to diesel towing, my previous 10 years experience was with a V-10 and the best way for it was to hit almost 4,000 rpms and everything stayed normal.
Is higher rpms better for the diesel or is around 2,000 better? Also someone mentioned an android for monitoring. Need an explanation a web site to go to learn about these.
2000 or under is best for mpg on flat land towing or not. When towing and climbing you want to move more air and water and reduce the load on the engine thus dropping down to 3rd gear. I use the 3rd gear and tow/haul when climbing or descending, the later to save the brakes. 3000 rpm have never bothered my engine. She is well maintained, OEM filters and syn. oil.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 05:39 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 69cj
2000 or under is best for mpg on flat land towing or not. When towing and climbing you want to move more air and water and reduce the load on the engine thus dropping down to 3rd gear. I use the 3rd gear and tow/haul when climbing or descending, the later to save the brakes. 3000 rpm have never bothered my engine. She is well maintained, OEM filters and syn. oil.
So then what is your average weight when towing? Also, when climbing hills, what has been your longest climb. I hear of long (mile on mile) stretches at 4 or more % grade and was wondering how your 6.0L preforms. Thanks for the TIPs
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 05:48 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by SPD&PWR
So then what is your average weight when towing? Also, when climbing hills, what has been your longest climb. I hear of long (mile on mile) stretches at 4 or more % grade and was wondering how your 6.0L preforms. Thanks for the TIPs
My 5er is 13 to 14k loaded and the grade out of Bishop to the Eastern Sierras is 7 to 8% approximately 12 miles at the steepest. Temps out of Bishop in aug. and Sept. are usually around 100. I usually drop her down to 3rd with the cruise set at 60 mph and sit back and enjoy the scenery.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 06:07 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
I've never seen or heard or experienced that so I'm calling BS. The factory gauge is nothing but a cold/normal/hot idiot light with a needle. I'm not saying it's not posted in this forum somewhere but it's definitely not normal.
I've always thought the same thing but there's this blurb in fords description of the latest flash:

"Vehicles updated with this service calibration will display higher temperature gauge readings when high engine oil temperature (EOT) conditions or high engine coolant temperature (ECT) are encountered..."

The fact that a flash can change the gauges behavior makes me wonder if I wasn't underestimating how it works. Also notice it says EOT or ECT.

I hope this might help the unaware owners out there that don't monitor engine vitals by warning of impending doom before the truck dies and steam rolls out from under the hood.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 06:30 PM
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OK awesome.
 
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