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For long straight cuts in heavy gauge metal I use an abrasive cut-off blade in a skill saw. A die grinder with a cut-off wheel will get in to tighter places. Both are abrasive and throw sparks, not to mention that an abrasive wheel can break....so a face shield and gloves are required. It is also important to make sure that you are not throwing sparks into anything flammable.
I have a number of cutting tools to cut sheet metal I use whichever is best suited to the task. For metal thicker than 16 ga I use a cut off wheel in a 4" angle grinder. For long cuts in thinner metal with no distortion I use electric shears like the top pic in Chris 56's post. For really thick metal and structural steel I use a metal cutting chop saw. I have always had a problem with sheet metal shears because I am left handed. Effie, I do use a pneumatic high speed metal saw (like a small recip saw), as well as a 3" cut off wheel. Heavy leather gloves have saved me a lot of scars. I never use anything that throws sparks or debris without wearing a face shield. I keep two (one as a spare or for a helper/observer to use) hanging on the wall right next to my welding helmets.
I also use a body saw. I never had much luck with and angle grinder with a cutoff wheel.
Most people that have problems with a cutoff wheel is because they try to use it like a circular saw in wood, pushing it along the line. Instead, use it like a small chop saw, place the running disk over the line and lower it into the metal until it cuts as far as it will go, do not try to move it along the line, Then raise the disk out of the metal, move it down the line and lower into the metal again. If you want a nice clean cut, let the disk remain in the end of the previous cut before extending the cut.be careful not to tilt or twist the disk while it is in the metal. If the disk chips or cracks, take it off, throw it away and replace it with a fresh disk. I buy my disks on line (ebay) n packs of 25 or 100 so I am not tempted to reuse a damaged disk. I also keep the arbor wrench tethered to the cord on the angle grinder so It's always at hand.
I have a plasma cutter in mind for the next big shop toy , but till then I spend $100's on cutoff wheels and sawsall blades and the usual consumables. my last air tool purchase I wish I had made years ago - an Eastwood long reach 4" cutoff (has a german thread screw in the middle and normal thread bolt to hold the disc on) reversible rotation to angle sparks and keep control of the cut. wheel is mounted at a 90 degree to the shaft not bolted to it's end. makes for very nice cuts, easy to control. just loves air! till the plasma comes I will swear by this tool.
Most people that have problems with a cutoff wheel is because they try to use it like a circular saw in wood, pushing it along the line. Instead, use it like a small chop saw, place the running disk over the line and lower it into the metal until it cuts as far as it will go, do not try to move it along the line, Then raise the disk out of the metal, move it down the line and lower into the metal again. If you want a nice clean cut, let the disk remain in the end of the previous cut before extending the cut.be careful not to tilt or twist the disk while it is in the metal. If the disk chips or cracks, take it off, throw it away and replace it with a fresh disk. I buy my disks on line (ebay) n packs of 25 or 100 so I am not tempted to reuse a damaged disk. I also keep the arbor wrench tethered to the cord on the angle grinder so It's always at hand.
Yeah thats pretty much what i was doing. Ill try that method and see if i like it better than my body saw.
This is an older thread, but I think my question fits here.
Harbor Freight opened in the town where I work. Well I stopped by to take a look.
Recently I got myself an air compressor and a few tools....man the right tool can be handy.
Well, they have some air cutoff tools for sale for next to nothing. (I know you get what you pay for, but I won't have much of a need for one.)
I bought the 4" tool: 4 in. High Speed Cut-Off Tool
But it seems next to impossible to get 4" cutoff wheels with a 3/8" arbor. (3M has a pack of 50 for $392)
One guy in the store (A customer) said a 5/8" wheel would work if you got it on tight. (Yeah right, gonna try that with something spinning at 18,000 rpm)
Wish I could answer you, myself I would not bother with an air tool for cutoff wheels.
I have a few of these, so far they are bulletproof and use the 5/8" harbor freight cutoff wheels. I keep a cutoff wheel on one and a grinding wheel on a a second one, 3rd one for wire wheels.
Thanks guys, I wondered how well the air cutoff tool would work, but I was thinking for small jobs it would be more handy than my bigger angle grinder. Of course I haven't used my angle grinder for a cutoff tool....not so bright sometimes.
I found a single 4" one at Menards for $3. Harbor freight has some, but they aren't carried in the store in my town. I may go with the 3", which would also prevent me from trying to do more than my air compressor could handle. If I need something bigger I could just use the angle grinder.
I have most all of the aforementioned tools, but mostly I use a pneumatic panel splitter for the rough cuts and the cut off wheel in my die grinder for the more critical stuff.
You know I have a 4" Makita grinder and I use it with cut off wheels from Home depot. Some of them I need to use a small brass filler of sorts that I get with my masonry cutting wheels. If you don't have them centered on the tool you get mass quantities of bad owies.
I have two air saws that I use. My old snap on and my new and improved longer stroke snap on air saw. These are both extensions of my hands. I also use very often tin snips, air nibbler, electric shears, Beverly shear and my Pexto gap shear. I also have a diacro turret punch press and a Nolan metal shaper I use for cutting, shaping, forming, etc. I'm old fashioned in regards of plasma cutters, not that I'm against them I just don't care for the feel and the accuracy of them for sheet metal work.
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