1990 f250 stalling problem
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1990 f250 stalling problem
I recently bought a 1990 f250. It's a 5-speed manual and a straight six 4.9l engine. When you start the truck it wants to die almost right away unless you feed it a bit of fuel. It will sometimes continue doing this even after driving a bit and warming the truck up. The previous owner said it needed a slave cylinder. Could this cause it to stall on start up and at idle? Or are there other issues needing to be checked. The check engine light is on but I could seem to get the jumpered eec method to work. It's possible I was doing it wrong though. Any help is appreciated.
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Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Philly, PA USA
the stalling has nothing to do with slave cylinder IMO... that only becomes a factor when trying to move.
I would check the relays first the one for fuel and the one for EEC (maybe why you couldn't retrieve codes there). After that, check the IAC, pull it off and check for carbon buildup and if you clean it, use only a MAF sensor cleaner so you don't hurt the electric part on it. Keep It Simple and don't go buying and replacing parts until you prove that it is needed. Update your findings to further help your repair attempt, good luck!
I would check the relays first the one for fuel and the one for EEC (maybe why you couldn't retrieve codes there). After that, check the IAC, pull it off and check for carbon buildup and if you clean it, use only a MAF sensor cleaner so you don't hurt the electric part on it. Keep It Simple and don't go buying and replacing parts until you prove that it is needed. Update your findings to further help your repair attempt, good luck!
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I got a little bit delayed but have started pulling some parts off and cleaning them. Also got a new airbox because there was a huge crack in it and I wasn't sure if that could make a vacuum leak. In addition to that I bought a code reader and found five codes: 121,172,332,411, and 538. Since a few of those can be related to the TPS I disconnected it and cleaned the connectors but haven't fired the truck up again yet since I have other parts off at the moment. A third thing that I noticed was that there is something that looks like a large tin can laying in the engine bay unattached. It resembles a family sized can of baked beans with two metal nipples on one end. Any idea what that part is and where it goes?
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From: Easton,Ks
The can is the vacuum reservoir for the TAB/TAD & EGR systems. It is fed by a red vacuum line from the upper intake manifold and it supplies vacuum over a black vacuum line to the EGR, TAB & TAD solenoids.
121 throttle shaft rusted
172 bad O2 sensor or fuel pump
332 The vacuum can problem, also check to see if it is rusted out on the bottom.
411 throttle shaft rusted
538 most of the time operator error
121 throttle shaft rusted
172 bad O2 sensor or fuel pump
332 The vacuum can problem, also check to see if it is rusted out on the bottom.
411 throttle shaft rusted
538 most of the time operator error
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Also, I think the previous owner was trying to bypass some of the emissions parts of the truck and had no clue what he was doing. (Also don't know why he was doing that) Almost like if I knew nothing about engines and just started unhooking things that didn't look important to try and make it run better.
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From: Easton,Ks
You need to free the throttle shaft not replace it. Use some PB Blaster on it and make sure the linkage is free and the throttle will snap closed.
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From: Philly, PA USA
i believe he means that bar/rod that goes "through" butterfly... like a backbone of a butterfly. It's stable but it's what allows it to swivel open and closed. Few have a tendency to oval out on either end and then the butterfly binds or can even have slight vacuum leak in some cases.
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From: San Diego
That vacuum canister not being hooked up screams to me as the first place to look. Any engine with a bad vacuum leak will do what you're describing. Check all of the ports that go to the intake manifold and make sure that they're either plugged or have a line hooked up to them. Trace all of them to their other end, and make sure they are attached to something. It's the easiest, least expensive and cheapest place to look, so I would start there.
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