Whats it lacking to mount a IC? In the way of tubing, clamps, etc? I plan on using a 6.0 IC if I can manage to find one. Also, who makes a good Electric fuel kit? Or am I better off making a kit from a few parts and scratch?
I want to do this build once, and do it right. I'm going to pull the whole motor while I'm at it, got a rear main and oil pan leak..

 

Buy Online | Irate Diesel Performance LLC

This is the kit I'm looking at right now

 

The kit should have everything, you should just need to fab some mounts for the IC itself. The electric fuel kit from irate is a good kit also. You can put together a cheap elec fuel for about 350-400. I put together my own with more name brand parts and cost me about 750-800. After I got done I wish I would have just bought a kit. If you live somewhere close to where you can get fittings its not too bad, but I don't and made too many trips to the parts store.

 

It looks like I may get the kit from bar none diesel for the E-fuel. TE-HPOS2, H11 studs, 6.0 I/C, 145v IDM, the S468 T4 kit, some stage 1 cams and some hybrid injectors. The injectors are the last thing I'm not sure where I will get them from. My stage twos came from rosewood though and have worked really good for me, anybody running his hybrids?

 

Quite a few are running his hybrids. I'd stay with rosewood if I were you. There are other good companies, but Jim is right there with the best.

Couple people running the bar none kit too. I'm not sure a single SD pump is gonna do you with that setup, maybe you'll need 2. It would probably be maxed out if it does.

 

For the Efuel? How would you set that up?

 

Im surprised you dont have E-fuel! The stock fuel system can't provide enough pressure to keep those big injectors happy at WOT.

And I believe Darin just meant running two pumps inline. So it would be a normal E-fuel setup with a second pump plumbed in.. basically just to provide more pressure.

Standard E-fuel setup: Fuel Tank --> Filter --> Pump --> Filter --> engine

He just meant throw another pump in there. You would cut in and connect to the same fuel lines. Your regulator in the valley would make sure that 70psi is still all the pressure the injectors see, but having a second pump ensures that when demand calls for it the pumps can still keep 70 psi at the fuel rail.

Something like: Fuel tank-->Filter-->pump-->filter-->pump-->engine

 

Wrong.. With twin pumps, your running them in parallel. In other words, put a "Y" or tee in before the inlet to the pumps and run an inlet to each pump then both outlets will come out and either tee or "Y" back together. Stock OEM SD pumps already have built in check valves in the pumps so nothing else is needed. If you're using pumps that don't have check valves built in, you will need to plumb a check valve at the outlet of each pump in case one pump shuts down, the other pump can't flow fuel backwards through the other pump, fuel keeps running straight to the engine.

For example... thanks to Marty for the routing diagram.



OP, IMO I would get a kit from Marty at Marty's Diesel Performance. His kits are nice. My single stock SD pump didn't keep up with my 160/80s, but I have a feeling that it either wasn't OEM or it was just weak already by the time I went to those injectors. I have a Dieselsite CPR kit and I love it, but IMO you need to upgrade the pump if you're running hybrids and you get the CPR kit.

 

I've noticed the truck is running out of both fuel and oil at WOT, but until coming over seas the funds, and time, were never avalible. But duel pumps sounds like good insurance. Thanks for the input! Now whats the word on headers for the 7.3? I've spent the last several days reading up on them, most threads are a year or more old, but from what I've gathered its not worth the money, and they tend to crack from high EGT. But I've read that the tube style manifolds (half *ss headers) are a bit cheaper and last longer. Worth a grand?

 

Good God almighty that thing is pricey!! You could almost buy an entire truck for that. Gonna be awesome though!! Looking forward to this.

 

Now go to terminator engineering and check a dual hpop to go with that...it ALL adds up fast...hp costs...how fast ya wanna go?

 

Thanks for correcting me Travis! My way sounded like itd work to me, but i have little experience so this is why im on here! So i dont do it and mess something up on my truck!

 

The dual HPOP's are already on the list. I know its not going to be cheap, but I don't plan on ever selling it and I've had the truck for almost a decade anyways.

 

Headers are very worth it in the correct combo. With good ported heads and a good cam, adding headers have showed gains of 100+HP. With stock heads and a stock cam, you won't gain as much.

The new DI headers are supposed to be gusseted to prevent warping and cracking. I will be running headers from DI when the time comes. If your running decent ported heads and a good cam, they are worth the grand IMO. The new gusseted headers are more money though. Lol

 

DI? I feel like I should know that one.. And I plan on the cams, stage one, maybe two. And ported heads