...did it twice and had a ticking sound from engine compartment. upon third restart, everything was fine. tuner said this was "injector control pressure too low-engine cranking". am i looking at a bad injector? i'm 30 miles from dealer....do i chance the drive or tow? thanks.

 

Here is what I have on it. Have you checked your batteries as a first good step? Load test them individually?

P2291 X X Injector Control Pressure Too

Low - Engine Cranking

This error occurs when enough injection control pressure

to start the vehicle cannot be achieved during cranking.

Low pressure fuel system,

HP fuel system, FUP sensor

and wiring to sensor, battery

voltage (crank speed)

 

where you low on fuel?

 

thanks guys. yes, the 50 mile to empty message did just come on prior this. got 1 year old diehards but will check connections. the other code that was present was P115A-low fuel limited power...but i thought that was an old code from a couple weeks ago when i went below "0 miles to empty" (still only pump 26 gallons in). the over-plumbing of the controls on this engine is killing me. supposed to pull the boat friday and the horse trailer saturday and now i've had to cancel both for fear of getting stranded. i thought i was over all this stupid shyt when i deleted dpf/cat

 

low fuel will put it in limp mode.

 

<table class="ADVV1-HotlineArchives-Whites" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td class="ADVV1-HotlineArchives-LeftRuledRows">Customer Concern: </td> <td class="ADVV1-HotlineArchives-RuledRows"> The engine will not start, there is no fuel pressure, it sets a P2291 code.

</td></tr></tbody></table>
<table class="ADVV1-HotlineArchives-Whites" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td class="ADVV1-HotlineArchives-LeftRuledRows">Tests/Procedures: </td> <td class="ADVV1-HotlineArchives-RuledRows"> 1. Note, when the high pressure pump is starved for fuel, this can be very hard on the pump.

2. First check for aeration. With your fuel gauge hooked up, crank the engine and open the release valve on your gauge, see if the fuel is coming out aerated.

3. If it is coming out aerated, put your gauge at the electric pump and check there. There will be some aeration from the electric pump. Verify however if the aeration gets worse when the engine is started. If so, the pump is likely not the cause of excessive aeration.

4. If it is not the electric pump, then reconnect the system, block off one head at a time and recheck the aeration. If either head is blocked off and the concern is gone, suspect an injector or injector o-ring issue.

5. If both heads are completely blocked off, and still aerated, there is likely a high pressure pump issue. Check for metal contamination in the fuel. If that is found, the pump and injectors will likely need to be replaced.

</td></tr></tbody></table>
<table class="ADVV1-HotlineArchives-Whites" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr id="ASRF_WC36989831_WP36989831_WC36989852_W3698985 2_ctl03_trTechTips"><td class="ADVV1-HotlineArchives-LeftRuledRows">Tech Tips: </td> <td class="ADVV1-HotlineArchives-RuledRows"> Note if you tried starting the truck before bleeding the system, there may be a code stored in memory that will need to be cleared as well before starting the vehicle.

</td></tr></tbody></table>

 

update: at dealer now for replacement of an injector that is "over fueling". seems a little contradictory to the low pressure code but ok. have a jar of vasoline standing by waiting for total bill

 

Interesting a much different diagnosis vs the code. Maybe they tested further and found that to be at fault.

 

i thought the same thing, senix...but come to find out, it was not such a shocker afterall. the problem presented itself again two days later after a $1k injector replacement. so now i'm in the same situation i've been in a couple times before...i've paid for **** that wasn't causing the problem and am still on the hook for what they haven't found yet. i'm worried because i am due to leave for vacation in a week for a 1000 mile boat pull up north.

 

I'd be checking the low pressure pump or the fup sensor then. That just sucks.

 

An injector that is leaking can certainly cause issues in building the desired fuel pressure.

A key thing to keep in mind - Do not ever, ever let a diesel truck run out of fuel, or even let one of the new common rail diesels get to the point where it may suck air when the fuel sloshes to the side on a turn. There are two issues with this:

1. The $$$ High Pressure Fuel Pump runs up to 26,000 PSI and is easily damaged by air getting in which doesn't have the lubricating quality of the fuel and can cause scoring of the pump pistons which will continue to worsen once started until there is a failure.

2. If you manage to get air into the high pressure side of the fuel system you will be dead in the water until you perform the bleeding procedure for both the low and high pressure sides of the fuel system. They aren't that difficult, but I recommend people print them out and keep the directions in the truck along with a basic set of tools.

http://wpnet.us/Fuel_System_Bleeding_LP.pdf
http://wpnet.us/Fuel_System_Bleeding_HP.pdf

 

Hey guys I had the same issue and I replaced the lift pump and the icp but now I’ve got a air issue somewhere so I’m gonna replace the fuel lines from the lift pump to the fuel filter up top and see what happens also the brass washers on the fuel cooler so wish me luck

 

Why would you think a fuel line would cause that issue? If you have a leak it would be dripping fuel to the outside and not sucking air into the system. Where is your air issue? How did you come to that conclusion?

If the air is on the high side of the system my suggestion is to take it out and drive it like you stole it so that air pressure can be pushed passed the injectors.

When you replaced the lift pump did you get the fuel filter cap on tightly, it's possible you would be sucking air passed the Oring on the pump cap but not on the pressure side.

 

it won’t start , there’s more air the fuel coming out of the rear banjo bolt of the fuel cooler then fuel ! When it did run I drove it a few times and at WOT the boost went to 40 the fuel pressure went to 30k psi but there was no power ! It wanted to but just couldn’t so that also led me to believe that there’s a air leak somewhere that it would suck air but not leak fuel. I need to put fuel in it since I’ve dropped 1/2 tank trying to get this thing figured out. I’m to the point that maybe I should pull the tank and chase the lines for the slightest imperfections and purchase a aftermarket lift pump with external filters and just go overboard with the entire thing it’s unbelievably frustrating that this all started with a water pump and pan gasket. Another code I got throughout this fiasco was a P2291 and I changed that as well under the passenger side valve cover. In October last year I had to put the hpfp , injectors,rails, and harness because the hpfp gasket **** the bed and now this ugh smh. It’s gonna be something either really stupid and simple or something super expensive FML
thank you for the reply

 

To eliminate the fuel lines and the tank you can disconnect the tank at the back of the lift pump. Run a couple of rubber lines into a 5 gal fuel can with fuel in it and try to start the truck that way. You should be able to see any air bubbles coming from the fuel return line. If the air bubbles go away and it runs then you know you have an issue with the fuel lines to the tank or a issue with the tank itself. It's a lot quicker and less labor intensive than trying to drop the tank and find the leak.