Time to replace 45 y.o window rubber. As it happens all the glass in this truck is original. Back window swapped no problem (no trim on the CS model's back window), but the fellows from the glass company I hired to reinstall the windshield are having trouble getting the window rubber to stay on the original windshield especially when they try to slip in the original trim. They think it's much thicker than modern glass and told me to get a new one to make it work. Anyone have this issue before? I don't mind buying new glass (original is in fair condition but has lots of pitting), but I don't want to spend the dough and find I have the same situation even with a modern replacement....


As a side note, what a pleasure it was to pull the windows out of an CA/AZ truck and find shiny factory paint under the cracked and deteriorated seals!! Even with the black soupy gunk someone had squirted around the seal to halt leaks the frame was in perfect condition. EVERY vehicle I swapped windows on in FL had some form of cancer requiring intervention, and this cleaned up easily and shined beautifully with a minimum of effort!!!

But I'm not gloating.....

 

NAGS (National Auto Glass Society) #W819 .. Windshield ~ specify Clear, Tinted or with a Sunband.

Windshield is the same: 1967/72 F100/750, 1973/79 F100/350 & 1978/79 Bronco.

1967/72 windshield weatherstrip is different than 1973/79, and there are two types.

C7TZ-8103110-A .. Windshield Weatherstrip-Use without stainless steel windshield reveal mouldings / Reproduced

C7TZ-8103110-B .. Windshield Weatherstrip-Use with stainless steel windshield reveal mouldings / Reproduced

Reveal mouldings are installed on the weatherstrip first .. then the weatherstrip is installed on the glass.

The mouldings cannot be installed (or removed) if the weatherstrip is attached to the glass.

Seems to me that your glass installer is unclear on the concept. Newer vehicles do not use weatherstrips, the glass is glued to the body.

If there are windshield reveal mouldings, they are attached to the body, not to the glass.

 

I'm in need of new front glass; scratched up inside and out, bad glare, mold, fog build up. I contacted 1 company that said it would be $650 to replace glass and seal. Then another that said $160 for glass and labor and if it needed a new seal $50 more. He was okay with me buying a new weather seal kit myself and using those seals, also said for $25 they would put in the new back glass seal.

 

The trim goes in first, the weatherstrip on windshield, then windshield onto truck.

 

Any reason to think the original glass wouldn't fit in a replacement rubber....? It does look considerably thicker than any glass I have installed, but most of my experience is limited to old VW glass....

 

I'll let him know. He was recommended by one of the local hot rod groups around here as he does many of their cars. Not sure why he wouldn't know what order to install the parts.

I may go ahead and get it ready myself. Right now the glass is resting in place with the rubber on it. I didn't see how they did it, but seems to me that if it fits without the trim now it ought to accept the trim and then be installable on the glass.

 

How many Ford trucks has he worked on that have w/shield reveal mouldings?

Probably none, since he installed the w/strip on the glass first and now cannot get the mouldings to fit into the groove of the w/strip.

Who took it apart? If he did, he should know that the mouldings cannot be removed from the weatherstrip until it is removed from the glass.

The major problem that people face in today's world that own old rolling piles of misery is...finding repair shops that know how to work on them.

If you own an electronic nightmare: 1957/59 flip-top, 1961/66 T-Bird convertible, 1961/67 Lincoln convertible, better get a factory shop manual so you can learn how to fix 'em yourself.

 

He took it out, but the entire seal basically crumbled into 3-10" pieces. Maybe he hasn't done any Ford trucks. Who knows....

 

I've been trying this all morning... May be an impossible task. The trim strip will not stay in place even with the rubber off the window. How does one get it to stay in place? I want to retain my original trim, but if no one living can accomplish the task there's not much else to be done but ditch the trim....

 

Are you using the correct 1967/72 w/strip (C7TZ-8103110-B), or the w/strip for 1973/76 (D3TZ-1003110-E), or the w/strip for 1977/79 (D7TZ-1003110-B) that uses the one piece flexible plastic chrome moulding?

 

Bill, it's the original molding for my '67 truck. It's stainless and about 1" wide. There are two pieces top and bottom, and one piece per side. I can get the trim to start but as I work along it falls out behind me, never mind trying to put the glass back in the seal.... There must be some way (without 15 pairs of hands) to get this accomplished. I'm no glazier and I know no tricks of the trade.... The folks that took the window out won't return calls so I assume it's more than they want to deal with. I have called another outfit here in PHX. They were recommended by my machinist. I'll see if they will give it a shot. I don't mind paying to have it done, but I thought I'd make it even more appealing for someone to actually agree to come do it for me if it was assembled and awaiting install.

 

I'm not referring to the w/shield reveal mouldings, just to the w/strip (weatherstrip) itself. Is the one you're using correct for a 1967/72? Did you purchase it, or was it supplied by the glass shop?

Post 10: Parts catalog pic of 1967/72 w/shield mouldings. Warm soapy water is your friend when fitting these mouldings into the groove of the w/strip.

And if the new w/strip is stiff, soak it in hot water for several minutes before attempting to install the mouldings.

 

They are fitting in fine. So far.... Of course I'm starting with one piece at the bottom. I got both bottom pieces in and as I work along they just fall right out behind me.

 

See additional info edited into post 12.

 

This is the one I am using
:Weatherstrip - Windshield - w/strip, for stainless

It's as limber as a rag.... Stiffer might help it stay stuck to the trim, but it's 110 right now and I'd have to do the job in a walk in freezer....