Ok I'm looking to get a voltage stabilizer for my truck which works to ensure power is supplied at all times at a constant rate and if there is any power loss or spikes, what I am trying to figure out is would such a thing be worth using in our trucks sinse there are ones built for home theater systems that do work well so there is plausibility to using one in a truck to ensure power is delivered at a constant to all things requiring power.

What I want is a good descussion on it, the pros and cons and why, thanks for all your help in helping me keep my truck running!

 

My understanding is your battery already serves as a voltage stabilizer. The only reason I could see for using one is if you have 18v or 24v accessories installed on your rig.

 

What you're describing is a CAPACITOR Jaime...Stores energy and releases it to smooth out the "Waves"..

They're worth it, but only for 1,000w + stereo systems, and HUGE subwoofers.

But zombie is right...That's what the battery (Stores/releases energy) and the Voltage Regulator (Keeps the voltage stable) does for the truck.

 

Like a stiffening capacitor on a stereo right?

I ran my stereo without one when I first hooked it up to make sure all the speakers and amp worked and the headlights pulsated to the beat pretty spectacularly.

I don't really see a benefit unless there is a huge power draw (like a big stereo set up or the like).

However, I don't really see a downfall unless something were to create wiring gremlins.

 

I would think home theatre stuff would be 110. Don't know why you would need a stabilizer in either place. If your alt & voltage regulator are working you shouldn't see enough change to make a difference, unless your running a mega watt stereo system or operating a winch.

 

Honestly I don't see any reason to do this, unless your running a ridiculous stereo.

 

Capacitor? Screw those things... that's 1700's technology. Now we have these things...

Fuel Doctor USA | Official home of the revolutionary FD-47

I bought one at my local parts store and got a few more MPG... so I thought well gee if I can use ONE and get better mileage... why not buy more? I added power receptacles everywhere... on the instrument panel, console, seats, even in the bed, and put a Fuel Doctor in each one. Now my mileage is so good, I ain't bought gas in a week.



Oh wait... that's cause it's been parked all week.


Yeah in all seriousness though, you should have fairly stable and clean power. If your voltage regulator is working right and you don't have large intermittent electrical loads, your voltage should be stable. Your alternator generates 3 phase AC, and has a full-wave rectifier to convert it to DC (of course losing the inherent efficiency of AC in the process) so if anything, you could have ripple current on your system from failing diodes. Usually this is seen as lights that have a pulsing glow to them. You could always take a multimeter and measure for frequency... you should have little or none.

I do wish that automotive electrical systems would actually USE the 3 phase AC that the alt puts out... and just use the DC for starting, battery charging, lights, etc. Things that can't benefit from 3 phase. Would need a way to stabilize the frequency output though, which would require a constant speed drive... which is an additional cost and you know car makers these days love to pinch pennies.

 

Throwing in my 2 cents worth here...

The older name for a 'storage battery' is an 'accumulator' - as others said, its function is to act as the reservoir for the alternator's output and help it provide a stable supply.

 

Your truck and EVERYTHING else with a battery is DC powered, you won't get any spikes with DC.....You are wasting your time and money. you MIGHT get a slight voltage drop when turning on large powered accessories but within milleseconds the voltage regulator will up the output of the alternator and you will be back to normal power.

On edit I see Dixie replied better then me...That's what I get for not reading all of the posts....

Diesel Rod

 

Dixie460 you almost trolled me. I must admit I was getting ready to click on fuel doctor link until I got to the second half of your post. I commend you.

Bottom line is this...If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

 

Ok cool, so what I was thinking really seemes to go with your alls comments, its not really worth it and I am not really planning on a super sound system, just new speakers, head unit and a decient sub just to round out my music...

 

Yeah, if that's all you got you'll be fine without any modifications. Just make sure all your connections (battery and elsewhere) stay clean and tight.

 

thats whay im planning also going to look into replacing the factory grounding wires too if needed

 

Just to add to the discussion, the above advice on skipping the power conditioner is what I would also give, but you could also look at the big 3 upgrade (term used in the car audio world). What you replace with the big 3 is the alternator to positive battery cable, the negative battery to chassis ground, and the engine to chassis ground cables. This will help insure that the alternator and battery respond as quickly and with as little resistance loss as possible to transient power spikes.

For additional electrical upgrades you may also want to look at a headlight relay harness that pulls power directly from the battery rather than routing your headlight power feed to the dash switch and back. This will greatly reduce line resistance as well as improve the longevity of the headlight switch.

 

Is there a link to the head lamp harness you speak of I remember seeing it here some where and tried to find it again but couldn't, would rather get one that is 100% plug and play if able, also any recommendations on the big three upgrade? I'm trying to find a good grounding upgrade kit as well.