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I have a 1990 F150. Inside the hole where the Ignition Lock Cylinder goes there is a snap ring, a slotted washer, a small gear and a rod/rack that the gear meshes with. The Lock Cylinder turns the gear which moves the rod to select the various ignition positions.
The truck I just purchased would not allow you to remove the key and then it just stopped working. I removed the lock cylinder to find that the part which fits into the gear had broken off the lock cylinder.
The broken part could not be removed without removing the snap ring and bear gear (which is not hard). The issue is timing all the parts when it's reassembled. Can someone point me in the right direction?? If you get it wrong the key can not be removed or the start position will not engage the starter.
welcome to FTE.
i when i have it all apart, i align the gears so the end teeth on each gear align up. this way they will both run travel the same distance from end to end.
While I was waiting for a reply I tried a couple of different things. What I settled on was sort of a logical approach. Since I don't know the technical names of the parts I'll call the two parts the "rack" (the part the works the ignition switch rod) and the pinion gear. The pinion grear has gear teeth on the top , flat sides and a what I will call a location tooth on the bottom.
I used a screwdriver to push the rack until it was against ignition switch spring load (to the right if you're looking down the hole from the passenger side of the truck). Then I aligned the "location tooth" on the pinion gear with the lock channel closest to the drivers knee. This is the same channel the location lobe on the washer that covers the gears aligns. In this position the slot of the gear aligns perfectly with the slot in the washer.
I installed the lock cylinder and everything works fine. when in the off position the arrow on the lock cylinder aligns with the arrow on the steering column. I guess I should have taken pictures.
Thank you for your help. I'm sure I'll be using FTE a lot while I whip this truck into shape for my 16 year old step son.
Just as a followup... here is what you guys are talking about. I'm going to pull mine apart again because I think I still have it wrong even though it works. Are the positions "ACC - Off - Run - Start"? I have "off - run - start" but I can't turn the key back from the off position to what I think is the ACC position. I know that's kind of a dumb question but it's never worked since I've owned the truck.
When you say last tooth on gear must engage last tooth on actuator what exactly do you mean? Does that mean that the last tooth to the right or left on the actuator (down or up) and will the gear be the last tooth clockwise or counterclockwise?
I promise I'm not as dumb as I sound (no one could be that dumb). I was a mechanic many years ago (back in the '70's) and I worked mostly on VW, Volvo, Mercedes and a bunch of tractors.
Thanks for your help and please bear with me... I'll get it sooner or later
yup. acc - off - run - start.
it is kind of hard to explain, but i will put the "rack" in accessory position, and then align the key side gear up with it also in accessory position. this should give you both gears set at the end of their travel. then when you turn the key to start position, you will not run out of gear on the key side before you run out of gear on the lower rack.
the first time i did this, it took me 3-4 tries to get it rite.
now i pretty much don't even think about it, it just goes together. but then again i must have replaced 50 ignition actuators, so i can pretty much rebuild a steering column in my sleep.
Tom.. I know it sounds crazy but I understood that lol! When the key is turned to the acc position the gear will be at the end of it's travel counterclockwise and the rack/actuator will be at the end of it's travel back towards the driver and that's the ACC position. I think I'm a tooth or two off from that.
1 or 2 teeth off is all you need for acc or start not to work.
i found that out the hard way the first column i did.
My first attempt everything worked but start and even it would almost work. You turned it to start and the radio would go off so it had to be just a fuzz off.
Work obligations may keep me from working in it today but I'll let you know how it turns out.
Hey all, Tony I think I might be running into a similar issue if understand correctly. I needed to replace the lock cylinder due to lost keys. Long story short the gear had to be pulled to remove remainder of the original cylinder. Now putting everything back together. I can get the new cylinder in and set while In run and even turn to start and off however I cannot put the key out in off position. Is this due to my tooth line up or potentially the ignition switch not fully engaging/disengaging?
unfortunately the 1990 steering column this thread is referring to and your 1999 column re completely different animals.
you will have a better chance of getting a correct answer to your question by posting in the 99 and newer powerstroke forums found here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum30/
unfortunately the 1990 steering column this thread is referring to and your 1999 column re completely different animals.
you will have a better chance of getting a correct answer to your question by posting in the 99 and newer powerstroke forums found here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum30/
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