Hey folks, I just joined and wanted to say hello.

I've got a 2001 E-350 15-passenger with the 6.8L. I just got through with replacing the plugs (first time, 122,000mi) last week. My fuel economy had dropped to about 5.5mpg and I had a bad miss. I decided to remove the front end so I could have better access. I also replaced the boots on the coils. The truck runs a lot better, but the miss returned, and gets worse with the underhood temp (idling, traffic), so I suspect a coil that is going bad, but not bad enough to trip the SES light. FWIW, I replaced the plugs with the OE Motorcrafts, used copper anti-seize on the threads and torqued to 16ft-lbs.

But that is not what is bothering me. I have a violent death wobble from 45-50mph. I looked through the posts on here and could not find anything that matched my symptoms. If anyone could point me in the right direction, if this has already been covered, I would appreciate it.

The vibration seems to come from the driver's side, but I'm not 100% sure. I've replaced the steering linkage and will be replacing the radius arm bushings and axle pivot bushings (all with new polly bushings) this weekend, although the originals look good. I cannot detect any play in the ball joints while using a pry bar. The steering box seems tight.

-Brandon
01 E-350 15-Pass. 20valve 122kmi
99 Expy4x4 EB 32valve 99Kmi

 

Welcome to FTE---great site here!

For future reference plugs do not last much longer than 50K miles. Since you've already tackled this seemingly daunting task on the modular motors next time it'll be easier.

When changing plugs on my 5.4's I remove the front seats--probably the easiest part of that task! I torque mine @21 ft/lbs FWIW, use nickel-based anti-seize.

Ford's are a bit slow to trip the MIL or CEL or whatever we're calling it today--SES works too. I have an intermittent misfire that can be felt just off idle, no MIL but a scan tool reveals two codes; P0316 (misfire in first 1,000 RPM's) and P0301 (misfire Cylinder #1). 2003 E250.

Another E250 same motor 2000 will throw a misfire code very quickly, quite possibly because the horrible Granatelli COP's are failing one-by-one, cold weather seems to kill them off in a hurry.

That's just a bit of FYI, comparing this and that. Make sure your E350 is OBD-II and not OBD-I---that could affect the MIL too.

As far as your death wobble most likely its the tires themselves---inspecting for broken belts etc is in order ASAP. A bent wheel could also be the cause, failing wheel bearings? If all suspension components are tight and not worn out then tires are all that remain.

 

Thanks, JWA.

This is only site that I have found to have a decent-sized van group. Years ago I used to be a member of Ford Truck World. That was back when I did a lot of mods to my Expedition.

The 01 E-350 is OBDII...I'll see if a friend of mine can hook his scan tool up just for kicks (he has a used car dealership). Autozone/AdvanceAuto won't bother if there is no light (I've asked).

I've been meaning to rotate the tires (they are about to be replaced), but will do that today. I just can't imagine that the one tire causes that much violence in such a narrow window of speed (45-50mph). I'll also check to see if the wheel is bent, but I don't think it is. Wheel bearings are good. I repacked them two years ago and checked the runout a couple of weeks ago.

I'll let y'all know what I find this weekend.

 

Would be very interested knowing what you find about the death wobble--that can't be fun to deal with at speed!

I'd recommend getting your own scan tool if you plan on doing any DIY stuff or just want to know how your drive train is performing. If you do buy one get a better one that allows clearing of MIL indications or pending faults---the very least costly ones simply read, don't interpret or let you cancel codes. I use an Actron CP9580 which is now updated to the CP9580A. Those models allow for data base updating free which is important too.

Anyway good luck with the wobbling wheels---please let us know what you find!

 

Death wobble on 4x4 van = need advice - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Bad "death wobble" - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com...and there are a few more on that site.....

 

Well, I put the spare on, in place of the LF tire and that cured the vibration. I can't see that the rim is bent or that the tire is damaged...no bulges, nothing I can see. I figured it was the suspension because the truck has 122,000mi on it and I have had the tires (Michelin XPS Rib) for over 40Kmi without even a flat. Plus, I've never had a tire or wheel that had that bad (violent) of a vibration in such a narrow window of speed, 45-50mph. Usually when it is a wheel, it starts low and just increases. Tires tend to start higher up in speed, reach a peak and then increase in frequency enough that it/they "smooth" out.

I'm still going to install the caster-camber adjusters before I have it aligned, since the camber is negative.

Thank you again for the help on my problems!

 

you don't even want to know how many tires i've had that went funny like that. sometimes they shake for a few days right before they blow up, other times they're just out of round a little and that causes a shake without causing them to blow up. if thats the case, the tire might be able to finish its life on the rear of the van. but have your tire shop inspect it before you put it back on

 

What makes you think the camber is negative now?

Camber is adjusted by cams in the upper ball joints---they're typically limited to not more than a + or - one degree adjustment, available in different ranges. I've read the E350 chassis eats ball joints so if yours are even suspect its good to change them and get a good alignment too.

Caster or steering axis inclination is built in to the I Beams---changing it requires those to be bent or twisted if out of spec.

 

Just wanted to update everyone on this old thread.

When I swapped the LF for the spare last year, the vibration disappeared.

A month ago I installed caster/camber adjustment bushings. They can adjust either or both, depending on the orientation. I installed these due to uneven tire wear.

When I did the caster/camber bushing install, I also swapped the LR to the LF (and LF to LR). The violent vibration that had been gone for a year reappeared! Same speed range, too. 47-52mph. Now remember, the original LF wheel/tire that had been on there when the vibration first appeared was swapped with the spare, where it still is. In other words, the spare is still on the LF.

I went back home (my parents'), swapped the LF & LR back to where they had been for a year, and the vibration went away again.

Sounds like a rotational/balance issue, right?

Well, slowly, over the course of 3 weeks, the vibration began to return. It wasn't as strong as it had been before, but it was growing in intensity. Same exact speed range.

I ordered a new set of tires (old ones are in need of replacement) a month ago, and I was determined to install the new poly bushings (that I purchased last year, in hopes of eliminating the vibration) for the axle pivots and radius arms before I have it aligned (before I have the new tires installed).

What a PITA!!! I put the van up on jack stands, removed the wheels, sway bar, lower shock bolts, radius arm nuts, ABS sensor connection, brake lines, axle pivot bolts, then I pulled each axle assembly out.

Loaded them on my trailer (I think each assembly weighs close to 150lbs., at least that what my back thinks), drove them to my house, pressed out the axle pivot bushings (purposefully left the outer metal sheaths in the axles), pressed in the new Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings and loaded them back on the trailer.

I did use my engine hoist to lift them up off the trailer, to & from the press, and back on the trailer.

To reinstall, I put each assembly on an ATV jack, slid it into place, placed the radius arm in its mount, threaded on the nut, then reattached the shocks to their lower mounts, then spent a couple of hours trying to get the axle pivot bolts installed. Again, what a huge PITA!! Access is very tight. I could get the holes close, then install a punch in the hole. Lifting and lowering the arm with a floor jack, using a pry bar, I was able to get them close.

But I just couldn't get them dead-on, despite my best efforts. The driver's side arm was in the pocket, about halfway lined up, but even with the van's weight on it, it would not budge. So, I decided to focus on the passenger side. I reinstalled the wheels, removed the jack stands and lifted, then lowered, then pried the arm, trying to get it lined up. All the while with a punch in the hole, keeping the arm from coming completely out. After many, many cycles of this, I was able to get the PS arm's bolt in. For the DS arm, I placed the jack a half inch below the arm, then pried it loose. Another 45+ minutes of the cycle procedure, i was able to get the bolt installed. Then I could not find one of the nuts.

A trip to Ace Hardware was fruitless. They stock two of the three different metric nuts in that size. Ford uses the third one, of course. The two local dealerships did not have them in stock, but Atlanta's Peach State Ford (heavy truck dealer) had two N620604S100 nuts in stock. $3.45 later, I returned to finish the repair. And found the missing nut.

Anyhow, after reinstalling everything with new bushings and new shocks, I drove the truck home. I can't work on my vehicles in my neighborhood, so I work on them at my parents' home.

The drive home was amazing! It felt like a Cadillac compared to how it rode before!! Handling is much sharper, ride is smoother and the vibration is GONE! Not even a hint.

I'll get it aligned tomorrow or Friday and hopefully have the new tires put on it Saturday.

I apologize for the long reply, but I wanted to provide closure to this thread.


-Remi
01 E-350 15-pass 20valve
99 ExpyEB 4x4 32valve

 

Thanks for updating your quest for the vibration issue---odd how something seemingly small can/does create such problems.

FWIW when I've watched techs replacing axle pivot bushings they've said there is a definite order of reassembly, one side must be installed before the other. I want to say the right side goes together first, then the left side. I might be in error but trying this in the "wrong" order will cause considerable difficulty.

Glad you've got it all back together----please update us on the final results and how it drives.

 

JWA, there is an order, although it is not required. Installing the DS arm first is preferable, because the PS arm is right in front of it and limits access to the bolt for the DS arm. There is just enough room to remove/install the bolt for the DS, even with the PS still on.

I had planned on doing it the proper way, but the PS arm lined up first and I was able to get that bolt in...I wasn't going take the damn bolt out after spending that much time & effort getting it in there!

The ride and handling is vastly improved. The new shocks made a huge difference in the ride. The ride feels much softer, and the handling is sharper.

The top DS shock mount nut was a real PITA, too.

-Remi
01 E-350 15-pass 20valve
99 ExpyEB 4x4 32valve

 

You're preaching to the choir on those shocks bolts Sixto!

A renewed front suspension is always amazing---makes us wonder how we kept it on the road before right?