Sloppy stearing
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Senior User
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 286
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From: Salem, OR
Sloppy stearing
I have an 86 F-250, 2wd, bought it I'm May, so not much experience w/it. I replaced the steering gear and the drag link but the steering is still not right. I got under the truck and had my wife turn the steering wheel back and forith. I noticed small movement on the rt stabilizer bushings. I know that these need to be replaced, but are there any other bushings that should be replace at the same time?
The truck has 138k on the clock and has many issues, but brakes and steering are top priority. Just finished w/rear brakes yesterday, now need help w/the steering.
Appreciate any help.
Thanks, Steve
86 F250, std cab, long bed, 6.9L, C6, 3.55 ltd slip
The truck has 138k on the clock and has many issues, but brakes and steering are top priority. Just finished w/rear brakes yesterday, now need help w/the steering.
Appreciate any help.
Thanks, Steve
86 F250, std cab, long bed, 6.9L, C6, 3.55 ltd slip
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,558
Likes: 69
From: New Zealand
If the bushes in the inner end of the axles are worn, the steering wanders & is late to respond because the slack has to be taken up first.
With everything that you have mentioned being tight, you should be close to a solution.
By 'stabilizer bushings', do you mean the radius arm bushings?
With everything that you have mentioned being tight, you should be close to a solution.
By 'stabilizer bushings', do you mean the radius arm bushings?
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 553
Likes: 6
From: North Western New Jersey
I've been battling a similar situation. My first and foremost repair was to get a new steering box. Don't waste your time and or money on a parts store steering box. They don't "rebuild" them as much as replace seals. Spend the money and get a red head steering box. I just bought mine 2 months ago for $270. Worth EVERY penny.
My next attempt at solidifying things are to replace the shocks. In my research and opinions from other FTE members KYB Gas-a-justs are the way to go. I have to buy mine in pairs (as opposed to buying all 4 at once) for financial reasons. I'll let you know how this turns out.
Do you have a front sway bar? My truck does not have one but this would definately help but shouldn't be a main concern. If you're is a 4x4 i've heard of the Death Wobble when the TTB bushings become worn out and can cause the steering to wobble.
Just some of my $0.02
Good Luck,
My next attempt at solidifying things are to replace the shocks. In my research and opinions from other FTE members KYB Gas-a-justs are the way to go. I have to buy mine in pairs (as opposed to buying all 4 at once) for financial reasons. I'll let you know how this turns out.
Do you have a front sway bar? My truck does not have one but this would definately help but shouldn't be a main concern. If you're is a 4x4 i've heard of the Death Wobble when the TTB bushings become worn out and can cause the steering to wobble.
Just some of my $0.02
Good Luck,
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
I second Ken's question. If you mean the anti-sway bar then it won't impact steering much if the bushings are worn. But if you mean the radius arms they Will have a huge impact on steering.
However, presence or absence of a sway bar does make a big difference in the way these trucks drive. I had a 2wd truck with a new steering box and no slack in the steering and spot-on alignment that would be redirected with bumps. But a 4wd truck, and they are typically more sloppy in steering IMHO, with a sway bar and 140k mile shrugs off the bumps. And another FTE'er here put a front and rear sway bar setup on his truck and reported a huge improvement.
As for shocks, I called Monroe as explained here and went with the recommended Sensa-tracs. I love them.
However, presence or absence of a sway bar does make a big difference in the way these trucks drive. I had a 2wd truck with a new steering box and no slack in the steering and spot-on alignment that would be redirected with bumps. But a 4wd truck, and they are typically more sloppy in steering IMHO, with a sway bar and 140k mile shrugs off the bumps. And another FTE'er here put a front and rear sway bar setup on his truck and reported a huge improvement.
As for shocks, I called Monroe as explained here and went with the recommended Sensa-tracs. I love them.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2013
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From: Salem, OR
This truck has the larger anti-sway bars front and rear, the original owner bought it to pull a fifth wheel. The shocks look like thay have been there a while. And yes I did mean the radius arm bushings. Are there bushings on the front of the radius arms?
Kens comment on the the inner axle bushings pretty much describes my problem. Does anyone have the procedure for replacing these, and how difficult is it? I don't mind light duty stuff, but I'm 70, and the heavy duty stuff I find a bit difficult. Besides the only help I have is wife of approximately the same age (she's not so mechanically inclined).
Thanks for all the help, you guys are a wealth of info.
Steve
86 F-250, std cab, long bed, 6.9L, C6, 3.55 ltd/slip
Kens comment on the the inner axle bushings pretty much describes my problem. Does anyone have the procedure for replacing these, and how difficult is it? I don't mind light duty stuff, but I'm 70, and the heavy duty stuff I find a bit difficult. Besides the only help I have is wife of approximately the same age (she's not so mechanically inclined).
Thanks for all the help, you guys are a wealth of info.
Steve
86 F-250, std cab, long bed, 6.9L, C6, 3.55 ltd/slip
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
The radius arm bushings, front and rear on the arm, are absolutely vital to good steering. And, they are one of the first things to go. When they go they allow the wheel to swing fore and aft under steering and braking, which points the vehicle in a new direction.
Replacing them isn't easy as you have to have the vehicle on stands, unbolt several pieces, and pry the arm out.
Replacing them isn't easy as you have to have the vehicle on stands, unbolt several pieces, and pry the arm out.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,558
Likes: 69
From: New Zealand
Ideally, you would replace the radius arm bushs & the axle bushes, all at the same time........a lot of the same parts need to be removed in each job.
None of it is very complicated, but it is all pretty physical.
None of it is very complicated, but it is all pretty physical.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Let's put it this way - I have a full shop which is air conditioned and has a lift and most power tools needed (plus lots not needed). And I'm 66 and in excellent condition for that age. I have done it in my shop and am getting ready to do it again, but I personally wouldn't do it in a driveway. However, I know plenty of younger ones that have.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2013
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From: Salem, OR
I have replaced the rear radius arm bushings on another truck about 3 yrs age w/a floor jack and a come-a-long, was not fun then. I think I will take your advice Gary, and find someone younger, stronger, and w/more ambition to do this. If OK wasn't so far from OR I'd like to watch this done.
Thanks all for your input.
Steve
Thanks all for your input.
Steve
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
I have replaced the rear radius arm bushings on another truck about 3 yrs age w/a floor jack and a come-a-long, was not fun then. I think I will take your advice Gary, and find someone younger, stronger, and w/more ambition to do this. If OK wasn't so far from OR I'd like to watch this done.
Thanks all for your input.
Steve
Thanks all for your input.
Steve
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: Windsor Ontario Canada
Try adjusting the Mesh Load. Even though you have a new steering box it is usually the main cause of sloppy steering.Get a flat head screwdriver and the correct size wrench. on the steering box there is a locknut and a screw with a slot in the middle of it. back off the locknut while holding the screw still with the screwdriver. Once the nut is loose turn the SECTOR SHAFT ADJUSTING SCREW 1/2 turn clockwise, hold the screw in the newly adjusted position with the screwdriver,and tighten the nut. recheck your steering, the play in the steering box will be tighter,if not repeat above until you feel comfortable with it,but remember that if you go too tight the steering wheel will not return to center after turning a corner. In that case back off the screw off 1/4 turn. Best luck
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 286
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From: Salem, OR
When I got the new steering gear in, it was too tight (would not return to center). I backed it off until it was too loose, then little by little tightened it until it felt solid. I have been under the truck, had a helper turn the wheel back and forith, and all steering joints are tight. The only movement I could detect was in the radius arm bushings.
Steve
Steve
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
I have tried adjusting the mesh and have only made things worse. There seems to be only two results - where it was and sloppy steering or any tighter and no feel in the steering. It is cheap to do, so give it a try, but make absolutely SURE that you note where you start so you can get back there as I am sure you will need to do so.