My truck (2005 6.0 crew cab, 102,000 miles, stock, owned since new, EGR cooler & oil cooler at 60,000 mi, one injector at 90,000). I started having starting problems when hot about a week ago. It would start run at very low idle for a second or three and cut off. It would do this from one time to several times but would finally crank and run like nothing was wrong. It would always crank and run normal when cold. I took it the dealer truck shop on Friday. They replaced the EGR valve and new unison ring ($700). I picked the truck up on Monday and had the same problem so I carried the truck back in and the Diesel Tech was able to duplicate the problem. He worked around three hours trying to find the problem without sucess. He said everything checked like the truck should be running. He said he was going to contact Ford for assistance. He said he had another truck that had similar problems that he couldn't diagnose. The owner was traveling and wanted him to make his best guess and he put a new turbo on and solved the prolem. I waiting for them to contact me. Any ideas or comments are apreciated.

Rob

 

All of which have nothing to do with the "no start when hot" condition you're having. You need a new mechanic becuase they just took your money and as you said, really didn't fix anything.


Classic symptoms of the STC (Snap to connect) fitting on the HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) failing.

This is a connector that connects the pump to the HPO (High Pressure Oil) tubes to get oil to the oil rails under the valve covers. When this starts to fail, you usually see no more than 40-100 PSI (give or take on ICP or Injection Control Pressure) when cranking. The normal starting cold happens becauase the oil is thicker and able to build the proper pressure to start and keep the truck running; Hot oil is thin, not allowing the truck to build enough pressure.

Ford has two fixes for this, the first was a simple bracket that would hold the STC fitting in place. The second and final fix is a one piece fitting (seen in the video below) that permanently fixes the problem:

Part 1:

Part 2:



This is a time consuming repair that'll take up a weekend, but is doable in the safety and comfort of your own drive way.

Something else I would so while you're working on it or possibly having it done, is do the Dummy Plugs and Stand Pipes. These are also part of the HPO that can cause a similar issue, it's just that it won't start altogether. Ford also has revised plugs and stand pipes so likelyhood of them failing again is slim.

At 4:30 mark he explains what they are and shows the difference:

 

X2 what Toreador said. And you will need some tools to do the job, here is a link to the srmastertech video showing the required tools,

 

First let me say thanks for the responses. I watched all thevideos and gained a lot of information. I agree that I need a good diesel mechanic to work on the 6.0 butfinding one is no easy task. How do youknow? That is why I go to the largestdealer shop in my area. They have aseparate truck shop and there always are lots of Ford trucks being repaired. One thing that did concern me this time wasthe Tech that had repaired by truck before was no longer there. The one thing I don’t like at the dealer isyou talk with a service writer instead of a mechanic and what you try todescribe is not always what gets relayed to Tech which is what happened in thiscase. I didn’t describe the issue as ano start since it did start but would not run. The service writer wrote that the vehicle had no power after start whenhot. The Tech said the EGR valve was notfunctioning normally and I was not surprised since it had never been replacedor cleaned. He test drove the truckafter replacing the EGR valve and found some turbo sticking issues. I have also had some issues with turbo fartwhen pulling my 5^th wheel so I agreed to replace the unisonring.

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When I carried the truck back in, the Tech found no issueswith Injector Pressure or anything else and this was when the truck wasexperiencing the start but no run issue. He specifically stated that it was not a high pressure oil issue which Ibelieve he suspected. My truck isdifferent from the one in the video because it cranks normally but sputters andstalls after one or two seconds and sometimes ten to fifteen seconds. During this time it never gets up to normalidle speed and if you press the accelerator or try to put it in gear is stallsout. If I let the truck sit for a period(couple of minutes to five minutes) itwill eventually start and run like nothing is wrong. The only other thing I noticed, and I may beimagining this, is there seems to be a longer delayed response after you pressthe accelerator before the truck takes off. It seems longer than the normal turbo lag. The truck is still at the shop and theservice writer called and talked to my wife yesterday and said they were goingto run additional tests the Ford had suggested.

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I know many here work on their own vehicles and in the pastI have too but I am a little intimidated by the 6.0 diesel. I and 65 years old and am a little hesitantto dive into a major repair. I mainlyjust don’t want to. I have done a coolantflush and installed a coolant filter and also do oil and fuel filter changesmyself. I do want to have as muchknowledge as possible so I can make reasonable decisions concerning thistruck. So thanks again for theresponses.

Rob

 

Ah ha....could be wrong, but it sound like it may be either the dummy plugs or stand pipes.

I say so, because I worked on a buddy's 2007 F350 and his exhibited similar symptoms when the dummy plug on the passenger side was failing. He took his daughter to soccer practice, didn't stay more than an hour or less, went to leave and his truck wouldn't start. He spent some time trying to get it to crank, but after he left it alone for a few minutes he tried starting again, it sputtered a few times, but then ran like nothing was wrong.

Later that evening he called me saying the truck felt underpowered or like it was losing power. He went to the shooting range thinking nothing of it and when he went to start the truck again, no go. (at this point the passenger side dummy plug went from failing to completely failed) He called me, I towed it home where I charged the batteries, hooked up the AE and made the following observations:

-I let the truck completely cool off to rule out the STC fitting. Went to crank, still no start. It wasn't a problem with the STC fitting, ICP, or IPR.

-While monitoring cranking ICP it averaged about 200-375 psi and the occasional 400 psi (something) and sometimes just enough for the truck come close to starting (sputtering), but then fall on it's face and go back to crank, no start.

After PM'ing Cheezit and Mchan68, both advised what I thought the problem was: dummy plugs and stand pipes. After pulling both valve covers off, I found the passenger side Dummy plug failed. This is the more important side as it's where the ICP sensor is. (If the ICP sensor doesn't see atleast 500psi, the PCM won't allow the engine to start.) A failing D plug on the driver side would probably (I say probably) exhibit the symprtoms your truck is exhibiting.

 

Thanks Toreador Diesel. You have given me great information and it has helped me get a better understanding of what may be going on. The service writer called yesterday and said they were still running the tests Ford recommended but had not found anything yet. I am beginning to loose confidence in their ability but I feel it's best to let things play out as I don't know anywhere else to carry the truck. It is very frustrating as I was planning on pulling my 5th wheel to the Smokey Mountains National Park where I had reservations for two weeks starting Sunday. I am beginning to think that you have to be Ford diesel Tech to own one of these trucks. I'll update when I hear from the shop. I can't imagine what my bill will look like.

Rob

 

Not a problem at all!

I too don't have too much confidence in them either, as Ford (hopefully Ford trained) techs, they should be able to easily diagnose whats wrong with it. They have tools that walk them through every step needed to diagnose the problem based on codes or even the lack of codes.

My frustrations with my local dealer led me to look to local diesel performance shops if my truck needed repairs I couldn't or didn't have time to do. They were not only cheaper, but (depending on the work load) quickly diagnosed my truck and had it back to me in a reasonable amount of time.

The above is a possible option, but I think at this point it'd be best to have a conversation with the Service Manager expressing your concern about how long it's taking....


That aside, where exactly are you located? You may be near someone that could help you diagnose and even possibly fix the issue...

 

I'm in Florence, SC and I don't know of any diesel shops in my area. I don't mind paying top dollar for repairs when I get quality work.

 

The dealership USED to have a very good diesel tech (who used to be a member here) there. I had him on speed dial as a matter of fact. I haven't talked to him since I left North Cackalacky so I'm not sure he's there. Sorry but I don't remember his screen name here it's been so long.

If you wanted to take a detour through Winston-Salem on your way to the mountains I would be glad to give you Trucks Unlimited's number. The owner is a 20+ year Ford Master Tech and knows his way around a diesel engine. He's the only one I'll let touch my truck besides me and I'm 900 miles away.

 

Doesn't look like I'm going to the mountions as I haven't heard anymore from the shop. Winston-Salem is 160 miles away but that's not to far if I run out options. I plan to stick with the local shop for now, I still hope they are able to make the repair. I am really not upset about the time it is taking. I would rather they diagnoise the problem rather than start throwing parts on at my expense. I think Curtis is the Tech you are talking about. He has worked on my truck three times. The last time was about two years ago when he replaced an injector but I found out he is no longer there when I carried my truck in. The Tech who is working on my truck may be very good, it might just be one of those problems that doesn't show up on any of the normal tests, I don't know but I plan on sticking with it for now. I posted about this problem to see if anyone else had the same problem. I see a lot of no-start when hot problems but none where truck starts but will not idle and shuts off after 2 to 10 seconds. So it may be an unusual problem.

 

Update: Dealer called Friday and said they still had not found the problem with my truck. She said the Tech was almost finished with the tests Ford recommended but would need to keep the truck thru the weekend. Did not call today. Very frustrating.

 

Not to butt in , did the STC fitting start in 05 ? I have an March 04 and the info would be one less item to worry about. Bob

 

Yes the STC was 05 and up.

 

I'd be very interested to hear what the problem was, Thanks for the update.

 

Dealer Shop called yesterday and said they could not get the problem to occur again so they can't finish the tests. The tech said he had been driving the truck everyday since Friday and the problem had not shown up again. They suggested I come get the truck and bring it back in when it acted up again. So I picked the truck and it runs great so far. The extra hesitation from a dead stop I thought I was noticeing appears to be gone. I'm planning to pull the 5th wheel to the mountains on Saturday unless the problem reappears. The tech said the problem will probably happen again but knows nothing to do until it does. I'm guessing a connection problem at a wiring harness. What do you think?

Rob