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Hey guys, I have a 73 F100, 390 V8, original 2 barrel carb (recently rebuilt), auto trans.
I had the carb rebuilt about 6 months ago. After the rebuilt, she ran somewhat smoothly, but still got rough every now and then. As of late, the truck has had a rather erratic idle. When I'm driving down the road, it runs fine. When I stop at a red light, I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it from sputtering to a stop. I have set the idle higher for the time being, but do not want to keep it that high for a long time. I need to get this thing running right. Does anyone have any ideas as to what I should be looking for? I've checked for vacuum leaks and haven't found any thus far.
I did take it to a local shop and they "adjusted the screws," but that has not changed anything for the better...might have made it worse. Any help would be appreciated!
Hey guys, I have a 73 F100, 390 V8, original 2 barrel carb (recently rebuilt), auto trans.
I had the carb rebuilt about 6 months ago. After the rebuilt, she ran somewhat smoothly, but still got rough every now and then. As of late, the truck has had a rather erratic idle. When I'm driving down the road, it runs fine. When I stop at a red light, I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it from sputtering to a stop. I have set the idle higher for the time being, but do not want to keep it that high for a long time. I need to get this thing running right. Does anyone have any ideas as to what I should be looking for? I've checked for vacuum leaks and haven't found any thus far.
I did take it to a local shop and they "adjusted the screws," but that has not changed anything for the better...might have made it worse. Any help would be appreciated!
Ng
There are two screws on the front of your carb, Unscrew the right one until your motor smooths out a little bit, then go like a 1/4 of a turn more and do the same to the other one and the idle should speed up and it should get way smoother. Then turn down you main idle screw if you have to
Went out and tried to adjust it in the way suggested. I couldn't get a screwdriver in where the screw is directly behind the distributor...guess I need to find a long skinny one. I did adjust the screw on the front of the carb, on the left side. I noticed almost no difference moving it in or out. Is it important to start with the screw behind the distributor on this procedure? I set the screw that I adjusted back to where it was set by counting the turns it took to screw it all the way in.
Thanks for your help...I need to get this situation resolved, and the shops around here can't seem to dial it in. One guy told me I am "burning a valve" and that that was my issue...uhmmmm...yeah.
Went out and tried to adjust it in the way suggested. I couldn't get a screwdriver in where the screw is directly behind the distributor...guess I need to find a long skinny one. I did adjust the screw on the front of the carb, on the left side. I noticed almost no difference moving it in or out. Is it important to start with the screw behind the distributor on this procedure? I set the screw that I adjusted back to where it was set by counting the turns it took to screw it all the way in.
Thanks for your help...I need to get this situation resolved, and the shops around here can't seem to dial it in. One guy told me I am "burning a valve" and that that was my issue...uhmmmm...yeah.
I know you said you checked for vacuum leaks and didn't find any, and I'm not sure from your description which adjust screw you turned and it made no difference, but often rough idle combined with no response on the adjustment screws does indicate a vacuum leak. You say you rebuilt the carb. Have you checked for leak around the base of the carb from when you re-installed it? You can spray a little carb cleaner around there and if it's sucking air it will briefly level out the idle as the cleaner seals the leak. Just a thought.
but often rough idle combined with no response on the adjustment screws does indicate a vacuum leak.
X2
When adjustment of the mixture screws has no effect on the idle quality that's typically a tell-tale sign of a vacuum leak (unless your idle speed is set so high you're overriding the idle circuit).
You may have a vacuum leak at the intake gasket(s), detecting this leak on a FE motor can't be done with the usual methods...
Cover both pcv/breather holes with duct tape, if one or both pieces of tape "dimple" inward with the motor running you have a vacuum leak at the intake gasket.
Hey guys, I have a 73 F100, 390 V8, original 2 barrel carb (recently rebuilt), auto trans.
I had the carb rebuilt about 6 months ago. After the rebuilt, she ran somewhat smoothly, but still got rough every now and then. As of late, the truck has had a rather erratic idle. When I'm driving down the road, it runs fine. When I stop at a red light, I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it from sputtering to a stop. I have set the idle higher for the time being, but do not want to keep it that high for a long time. I need to get this thing running right. Does anyone have any ideas as to what I should be looking for? I've checked for vacuum leaks and haven't found any thus far.
I did take it to a local shop and they "adjusted the screws," but that has not changed anything for the better...might have made it worse. Any help would be appreciated!
Ng
Sounds like you might have a vaccum leak.. try spraying starter fluid around the base of carb and vaccum ports. And it doesnt matter which screw you start with, but make sure you have them adjusted the same way when your done. Good luck