My Radtech brand radiator, which I think is aluminum, has kicked off the summer with a leak somewhere. It's under the shroud and toward the engine, so I can't see exactly where, but I'm pretty sure it's in the fins not the seam. There's a drip about once every five seconds, and it's steadily draining the radiator, so the truck is parked.

Strangely enough, it doesn't seem to leak when the truck is running or when it's shut down and still hot. Just when it's cold. I don't know what's up with that.

I don't know a whole lot about radiators. Can you fix an aluminum radiator? I figure I've got to yank it regardles of whether I get it fixed or just replace it. Is it likely a local shop will be able to / interested in fixing an aluminum radiator, or will they just try to sell me a new one? Is fixing one worthwhile, as compared to just having a new one that probably won't spring a leak for 100-150k? I don't know what a shop would charge to fix it, but I figure probably 50% the cost of a new one.

Also, are there any brands that are particularly good? I've heard people say to stay away from Spectra. I've found a Vista Pro that seems to be the right model, any opinions on that brand?

It's a 94 F-250, 7.3 IDI (NA right now but turbo'd soon), has air conditioning and the E4OD transmission, if that helps.

 

If it's a aluminum with plastic tanks ditch it and get either a all aluminum aftermarket or a brass OEM. I'm in kind of the situation except mines the original brass, not leaking but the tubes are corroded. Radiator shop has a $80 min. fee. 3 Row Aluminum Racing Radiator 83 94 Ford F 250 F350 F250 F Super Duty V8 Diesel | eBay

 

I have Champion aluminums in both my trucks and I have a similar problem in my 94. I haven't had the time to yank it yet, but you could pull yours and do your own pressure test if you have an air compressor, just don' put too much pressure in it. 25 lbs and a spray bottle of water and dish soap will pin point a leak for you. If it is a tank, fixing it should be easy, if it is a fin, it is more of a problem.

 

i got mine at advance auto.it's a 3 core copper/brass w/ lifetime warranty.
if somethings around the same price,and has a lifetime warranty,it's darned hard for me not to choose it.i need pretty good reasons not to.

 

Oh, I just thought of another question for you guys.

Since mine's an automatic, the stock radiator has a transmission cooler in it. But a PO bypassed the radiator and added an aftermarket transmission cooler, so I don't even need to hook up to the radiator.

I'm thinking I could use a radiator for a truck with a manual transmission, and maybe save some bucks? I would guess part of the reason this radiator costs so much is because of the added complexity of the transmission cooler.

 

the trans shop bypassed mine too and ran a large cooler instead.will void warranty if i hook it back up,so i have to wait it out.im watching them temps like a hawk though i tell ya.see i found shavings in my pan.he didn't like the risk of flushing the cooler and hooking it back up,but nothing beats a water cooler firstly followed by an air/aux after.
besides that,im not sure there's even a difference.i think most of them all come with the trans section,and for manuals you just don't use it.
if you find one without an auto trans cooler,is it much cheaper? not that it matters,though.you really want to use it for your trans.

too bad the ports are not larger,one could use this with manual trans for a aux oil cooler.would need to be 1/2 ports for oil cooler though.i was recently thinking about this.i really want my main trans cooler back though after warranty is up.though she's staying around 200 degree's towing and 180 (t-stat) running empty even in this heat.i must say i am surprised.that big tru-cool he stuffed behind my intercooler is impressive.im happy with trans temps 210 or less,so i can't complain.i will flush that sucker out and plumb it back together down the road though.if for nothing else,peace of mind haha! for the price i payed for my hd reman,i may not risk it either honestly.i might just replace the rad for peace of mind x2 lol.

 

Climb under your truck and tighten the hose clamp that is leaking the aluminum rads are famous for the clamps loosening, if your rig has a aluminum rad and heater core you can use the OAT coolant, as the OAT type coolants can eat the solder in older rads.

 

Pretty sure ALL heater cores for our trucks are aluminum. Still have the original in mine, and it's aluminum. The OE replacement for it sitting on a shelf in my garage (long story) is aluminum as well.

Mike

 

Maybe it depends on the year, but my '88 has a brass heater core.
My parts truck had an aluminum one (89 or 90?), and they do not swap directly!
/back on topic..

 

I've already established that it's not something simple like a hose clamp, but thanks.

 

Don't waste your time repairing it if you plan on keeping the truck. They can fix it but the coolant will just find the next weak link. I bought the alum one from champion. It has worked great so far. My temp stays at 180 allways

 

pour a egg in it and call it fixed

 

I ain't pourin' nothin in my radiator except Zerex G-05 and distilled water. Eggs are for breakfast!

 

Just ordered a Champion 3-core off eBay (somebody called "Radiator Galaxy") ... will report back.

 

Ok, I got the Champion all-aluminum radiator.

Did you guys hook up your heater core bypass to your Champion? The fitting I had on my old radiator (screws into the bottom passenger side of the radiator, has a tiny orifice and 5/8" hose that tees into the heater core line) is just *slightly* too big for the threaded opening on the new Champion radiator. Won't fit. What did you guys do to overcome this? I'm sure I could find a fitting with the correct side thread at a local hardware store, but I really doubt I could find one with that tiny orifice. I wish Champion had included that fitting...

If I use a larger orifice fitting, is that going to cause problems?