Lateral (side to side) Tire Spacing Changes
#16
#17
My '59 f350 was a factory stakebed. I had a 9' flareside bed and wanted to use that so I installed a sterling 10 1/4 rear from a '92 f350 dually pickup. 60 mph feels perfectly normal now. Like you I didn't want to molest this rare nearly perfect bed. The side to side lineup in normal pickup fenders is perfect, as we remember the dually pickups started out as a bolt on fender on what was an otherwise standard bed. I almost opted to keep the stock narrow cab/chassis rear axle and tub the inner fender wells and buy some of those 4" extra wide fiberglass rear fenders made for wide tires on hot rods (or R-Rs) and kept it a dually pickup. First, the bed was too nice to cut and more importantly I make my living building cabinets and oftrn pick up 40 sheets of 3/4 at a time. So we have had some paralell experience here. Oh, and my camper would not have fit any more either......
#18
PLUS the wheels Mark is sending my way via your place might actually have less "dish" to them (though I'd doubt it), in which case it may be even easier. AND...if the bed is rusted or dented it may still get cut/repaired anyhow, so if I'm doing that and needed to lose a half inch or so on either side I can probably make that happen, but I think the bed is in pretty good shape overall and like I said, I hate to molest any of these things. Something you can bolt on and take off without making any visible changes is the goal!
All that said, too bad your spacers aren't for sale! LOL! But...maybe I could use one of them for a pattern to take to my local machine shop, like tracing one of yours and then me making a dummy out of cardboard or plywood? Pretty easy to go to a shop and say, "Can you turn this into metal, x/x" thick, that I can use to move a truck wheel out from where it currently bolts on?"
#19
#20
I know how to change a lug nut stud--but I'm curious if these come in more or less standard sizes and if I can get them long enough to make this work without it being unsafe.
I did a bunch of measurements and then math on top of that. Without going into all of it, it looks like I'd need a significant amount of distance (big spacers, like 3" to 5" on each side) to use the stock wheels I have now as a single in back that would allow a wide enough stance to clear the bed sides and look right inside the rear fenders.
Can I get the correct diameter studs with 5" more length than what I have for one, and will they be safe with 5" spacers between the flat surface and the wheel mounting surface? My brain says the safety part should be ok as I'm not going to do a lot of heavy hauling and the mounting wouldn't be any "worse" than the way the front wheels mount in terms of how the forces/pressures holding everything together are applied (there's the mechanical engineer in me).
Any thoughts?
#21
Bob - three to five inches changes the equation. I think you'll need spacers that bolt to the hub, with a separate set of studs out along the outer faces that hold the wheels. MH used similar spacers on my trucks that measure about 4". Those you'll have to have made too. If you need it I'll text you a pic of one of mine. Mine, however, adapt an 8 lug hub to a 5 lug wheel. Stu
#22
Bob - three to five inches changes the equation. I think you'll need spacers that bolt to the hub, with a separate set of studs out along the outer faces that hold the wheels. MH used similar spacers on my trucks that measure about 4". Those you'll have to have made too. If you need it I'll text you a pic of one of mine. Mine, however, adapt an 8 lug hub to a 5 lug wheel. Stu
If you can send the pix, that'd be great. I assume a machine shop can manufacture what you describe, and I can refine and determine the proper dimensions to give me a tire centerline inside the wheel well that is what I need. And if you know of a machine shop up near you that you trust, I'm not adverse to driving an hour and a half; we can talk off line about that if you prefer.
I've seen conversions that add space and change bolt patterns and lug count, but they're all "modern" dimensions. For simplicity I'd probably keep the five lug hub and five lug wheels. Of course, I guess I could do a five-to-ten lug conversion and run modern-day wheels, but, heck, I have seven of those 5 on 8" 22.5" wheels now.... ;>)
The other and probably far more expensive alternative is to have two 5 on 8" 22.5" single rear wheels made with less backspace. Stockton Wheel in California has the capability with about a 4-6 week turnaround time. I could then use Mark's wheels up front with the new tires and the custom wheels in back with whatever tires I'd figure would fit. Of course, price is the issue there.
I'd still have the stock (optional upgrade for '59) 22.5" tubless and the original 20" widow-makers for if I ever sold the truck and the new owner wanted to do something other than what I'd planned/done.
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