6.9 idi valvetrain
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6.9 idi valvetrain
I have a part that I can not identify. I can not find a replacement part anywhere and am not certain that it is even necessary. It sits right on top of the valve sleeve and kinda cups the spring retainer ring. What can you guys tell me. I think it could be a valve rotator, but not sure. Thanks all.
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Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
I think I know what your talking about, but just to confirm.
On the left side in this pic, is the older 6.9 valvetrain setup, with the center piece that holds the 2 rockers for each cylinder together.
You're needing a new one cause you broke one correct?
That's usually what happens to them, they are a weak design, and should be upgraded to the 87 6.9 or any year 7.3 (88-94) like on the right side on the below pic. Those never go bad.
When I did the head gaskets in my '85 E350 6.9 van, I upgraded to the 7.3 valvetrain.
On the left side in this pic, is the older 6.9 valvetrain setup, with the center piece that holds the 2 rockers for each cylinder together.
You're needing a new one cause you broke one correct?
That's usually what happens to them, they are a weak design, and should be upgraded to the 87 6.9 or any year 7.3 (88-94) like on the right side on the below pic. Those never go bad.
When I did the head gaskets in my '85 E350 6.9 van, I upgraded to the 7.3 valvetrain.
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Possibly an oil seal?
It's possible this is an oil seal that the rubber has eroded away. every intake valve looks exactly the same though. If this was an oil seal I just can't see how this could seal anything, but, once again, maybe the rubber has eroded away. The exhaust valve have an evident oil seal. If the intake valve did have an oil seal they must have been of a much softer durometer.
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Great Pic! Thank you. It is the stem seal. Kinda a hokey design in my opinion. I have not been able to find the same design seal. Just rubber seals that fit around the valve stem. Hopefully the aftermarket rubber seals will be adequate.
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From: Virginia
Valve stem seals can be tricky. You don't want a lot of oil going down the stem, it will let the engine use oil and it will smoke out of the tailpipe. But, you need a little bit of oil in that area to lubricate the guide and the stem.
These engines are famous for guide wear, especially the exhaust valve guides. You will get a "huffing" sound from the exhaust pipe. Mine does it a little bit, and that means some of my exhaust valves are leaking compression past them, because they are wobbling around on the seat because of worn valve guides.
These engines are famous for guide wear, especially the exhaust valve guides. You will get a "huffing" sound from the exhaust pipe. Mine does it a little bit, and that means some of my exhaust valves are leaking compression past them, because they are wobbling around on the seat because of worn valve guides.
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Thanks for everyone's help. The motor only has 120,000 or so on it. The valves , rockers and pushrods all look pretty good. I'm only having to do this because my #4 piston ate a glowplug. Cylinder looks good, so I figured I'd check the valves too. It just needs to make for a year or less. I'll be sending it to the rebuilders at the end of the year or beginning of next year. Gotta get this thing together and running so that I can get the wife's car rebuilt first. Thanks all, if you have any other suggestions I'd certainly love to hear them.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Mine only has around 140,000 on it. They are bad about wearing the guides out early. Since you are asking questions about the valve train setup, I am assuming you have taken yours apart and wiggled the valves around to see how much play is in them?
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