One step forward and 4 back
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Hull England
One step forward and 4 back
Having problems with my ifs from speedway motors it just does n`t fit right wondered if anybody could help me in identifying the problem as everything seems to be pointing down instead off being level as the pictures on speedway website the spring has a slight curve in it and the shocker is tight to one side of the spring and the top control arm is grinding against the (dont know what its called I think its the spindle)
I bought it all as a kit so everything came with it apart from instructions
The welding is being sorted so apart from that I wondered if anybody could help who has fitted one of these kits could tell me what I ve done wrong My mate who is a mechanical thinks its the springs that are too long but is not sure I have posted some photos, hope you can help
Dave.
I bought it all as a kit so everything came with it apart from instructions
The welding is being sorted so apart from that I wondered if anybody could help who has fitted one of these kits could tell me what I ve done wrong My mate who is a mechanical thinks its the springs that are too long but is not sure I have posted some photos, hope you can help
Dave.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,994
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From: Morgan Hill, CA
Check to make sure that the springs aren't in upside down. The "flat" end goes into the spring pockets on the top. The end that sticks out goes into a slot on the lower control arm.
I don't know the Speedway part numbering system, but try to cross reference what springs you have. For a small block or stock engine installation, the spring to use is a stock Mustang II 5.0 spring from a 78 Mustang. For a heavy engine like a hemi or a big block, use a stock spring from an 84 5.0 Mustang.
You should also try putting the wheels on and putting some weight on the front of the frame to judge the height. A small block plus a front clip and a full radiator would probably be a 500# weight on the frame over the front crossmember.
Here's a pic of mine unloaded...and before the springs were broken in. They did settle down around an inch after the first 100 miles or so. The springs do bow out a little when they're unloaded.
I don't know the Speedway part numbering system, but try to cross reference what springs you have. For a small block or stock engine installation, the spring to use is a stock Mustang II 5.0 spring from a 78 Mustang. For a heavy engine like a hemi or a big block, use a stock spring from an 84 5.0 Mustang.
You should also try putting the wheels on and putting some weight on the front of the frame to judge the height. A small block plus a front clip and a full radiator would probably be a 500# weight on the frame over the front crossmember.
Here's a pic of mine unloaded...and before the springs were broken in. They did settle down around an inch after the first 100 miles or so. The springs do bow out a little when they're unloaded.
Elder User
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 728
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From: North Idaho
I'm sure no expert on the kit your using but I have seen other systems where the upper A arm contacts the spindle when jacked up (unloaded).
But I have never seen a spring and shock jammed together like that so, maybe your springs are installed upside down, I'm at a loss there.
But I have never seen a spring and shock jammed together like that so, maybe your springs are installed upside down, I'm at a loss there.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
I wouldn't be too concerned until you get wheels and tires on it and the full weight on the front end, although the springs in the picture look like they are pretty heavy. You might contact Speedway and give them the part # on the springs to verify they are the right ones. I have been to the Speedway factory and spoken with Bill himself, and found them to be extremely friendly, helpful and proud of their business. The wheels and tires will move the fulcrum (support) point out nearly a foot past the ball joint where you have it supported now, and I can't tell from the pictures if you have a complete engine etc installed yet.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
OK, going to Speedway's web site: First, the springs you have are 400# springs (the 400 at the end of the part #, the 2nd stiffest Speedway offers. I don't know what others are running, or what you have for engine, but I'd say that might be proper for a Y block or big block with AC. Also to quote Speedway (highlite mine):
When shortening springs, cut from the pigtail end, 1/2 a turn at a time until it sits with the lower control arm level or pointed slightly down with full weight on it. They will settle after a 100 KM or so of use so don't remove too much at the start.
Our Mustang II springs that we currently offer are all 13.5” long and require trimming to the length needed for each individual application. Weight rating changes as the spring is shortened. When installing in the vehicle the flat end goes up into the upper hat and the end with the “pigtail” goes down into the lower control arm. Spring is rotated when installing to position the pigtail properly. Springs TOO long will have a tendency to NOT sit properly on the lower arms and actually in some cases bow outward causing spring bind.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Hull England
OK, going to Speedway's web site: First, the springs you have are 400# springs (the 400 at the end of the part #, the 2nd stiffest Speedway offers. I don't know what others are running, or what you have for engine, but I'd say that might be proper for a Y block or big block with AC. Also to quote Speedway (highlite mine):
When shortening springs, cut from the pigtail end, 1/2 a turn at a time until it sits with the lower control arm level or pointed slightly down with full weight on it. They will settle after a 100 KM or so of use so don't remove too much at the start.
When shortening springs, cut from the pigtail end, 1/2 a turn at a time until it sits with the lower control arm level or pointed slightly down with full weight on it. They will settle after a 100 KM or so of use so don't remove too much at the start.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Buffalo
Mine did the same thing when we installed the springs and as Axracer pointed out, they settled down once the truck was driven a few times.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Morgan Hill, CA
From the look of the bow that you have, you may need to cut a little off of the springs to get things straightened up. On mine, at the end of the day, the front was too low to handle the un-maintained roads that we have in California. I ended up getting new springs from Summit...that's when I noted that my first set of springs were 1/2 turn shorter than stock MII springs. I also ended up adding a 3/4 inch spacer. My goal was two-fold. First, I wanted the lower control arms to be level at the normal ride height (this will minimize bump steer). Second, I wanted some tire clearance for the fenders. Here's where it was before driving:
It has settled down at least an inch....as everybody predicted. I had the springs in and out several times...a pain, but worth it in the end.
Dan
It has settled down at least an inch....as everybody predicted. I had the springs in and out several times...a pain, but worth it in the end.
Dan
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Hull England
The pictures that are on this post are with the full weight on engine fitted small block Ford 302, radiator full, there is an axle stand underneath the lower control arm and the springs are in the right way
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Hull England
From the look of the bow that you have, you may need to cut a little off of the springs to get things straightened up. On mine, at the end of the day, the front was too low to handle the un-maintained roads that we have in California. I ended up getting new springs from Summit...that's when I noted that my first set of springs were 1/2 turn shorter than stock MII springs. I also ended up adding a 3/4 inch spacer. My goal was two-fold. First, I wanted the lower control arms to be level at the normal ride height (this will minimize bump steer). Second, I wanted some tire clearance for the fenders. Here's where it was before driving:
It has settled down at least an inch....as everybody predicted. I had the springs in and out several times...a pain, but worth it in the end.
Dan
It has settled down at least an inch....as everybody predicted. I had the springs in and out several times...a pain, but worth it in the end.
Dan
Thanks Dan Its not only the bow in the spring but when the nut is tightened up on the top control arm it locks the steering solid because there is no clearance so cutting the spring down should solve the problem fingers crossed bringing everything level should give clearance at the control arm and spindle
Dave
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,994
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From: Morgan Hill, CA
I think that with a small block you should consider some softer springs. I'll caveat that with the thought that I don't know what type of usage you are planning for your truck.
Springs are cheap, but if you want to keep these, per Ax's recommendation, you could start cutting yours down a little. I think a half of a coil on each spring and you'd ease a lot of the pressure off of these.
These Moog springs from Summit are $45 for a pair. They are rated at 324 pounds. There is another listed as OEM for a MII...those are rated at 364 pounds. I have the 364 pound springs...I also have a small block engine.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mo...del/mustang-ii
Dan
Springs are cheap, but if you want to keep these, per Ax's recommendation, you could start cutting yours down a little. I think a half of a coil on each spring and you'd ease a lot of the pressure off of these.
These Moog springs from Summit are $45 for a pair. They are rated at 324 pounds. There is another listed as OEM for a MII...those are rated at 364 pounds. I have the 364 pound springs...I also have a small block engine.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mo...del/mustang-ii
Dan
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