Okay, I got the kit and cleaned and replaced on Sunday, but didn't get to the reinstallation until today. Everything is in and connected except the heater element, which has a new o-ring on the connector, the plate out of the bowl and the wire cut (and not grounded). There's a leak on the bottom little blue hose, which means I'll have to pull the bowl again, but I think I've got that down now.

The trouble I'm having is that I can't get the motor to fire at all. I've cranked it multiple times, and I don't even see a puff of smoke out the tailpipe. The fuel bowl seems to be full and during the last attempt to start I checked the fuel pressure at the fitting on the fpr and it came up to around 50 psi on my tire guage before I got worried about the starter overheating.

So what's my major fault here? All the other electrical connections I had to discombobulate seem to be tight and normal again, so it seems like should get a little smoke or a cough or something out of the thing, shouldn't I?

 

Are you getting WTS?

 

There is probably a lot of air in the fuel system still. How long have you been cranking on it? It may take several 5-10 second intervals.

 

About ten attempts of up to 20 seconds or so on the starter. Each battery is hooked to its own charger too, just to make sure the speed stays up on the revolutions. Also I plugged in the block heater just to make it a little easier turning over--actually, it kind of looks like a hospital patient now with all its IV electrical cords.

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^X2

 

If you mean the Wait to Start light, yes, I get it. Just for a second, then I hear the glow plug relay click off.

 

Did you possibly bump the ipr connector and it came unplugged?

 

Is that the one in front of the fuel filter with the wire bail on it? I disconnected that one to pull the wiring harness out of the bottom of the bowl when I took it out. Got it all hooked up again, but today when I went looking for my "new" fuel leak, I discovered that under the loom much of that harness is in very poor shape. And my new fuel leak is exactly where the old one was--right through the coupler for the filter heater. Would a short in the fpr sensor wiring stop it from firing, or just the ipr connector?

 

If you mean ipr sensor wiring, yes that would stop it from firing. That is kind of a bad design with the wiring around the fuel bowl like it is. Mine were all stuck together along with the sensor wires to the fuel bowl from diesel spilling on them over time and "eating" the insulation, it was a mess.

And yes, that is the one I'm talking about.

 

Thanks, fordman. Sorry it's taken so long to get back to this, but for a short week it's been a hectic one for me. I installed a new fuel heater (the old one leaked through the sealant around the wiring and was leaking through the middle, not at the o-ring. And I installed a brand new (not fuel-soaked and corroded) wiring harness. The truck fired in 2 seconds, so I let it idle for ten minutes and checked for leaks. The valley looked dry, so I congratulated myself a little and took it out for a test spin (not too far to walk home, just in case). I'd spotted a little water leak around the water pump and wanted to warm it up enough to open the thermostat.

When I got home to check, the water was gone, but I've still got fuel pooling up in the valley. Mainly in the back near the fuel pump. So I cleaned it all up and installed some paper towels under/around the fuel pump and related fittings. Then I fired up and held on about 1500 rpms for a couple of minutes. The towels behind the pump (banjo side) were dry; the ones under the lower (supply to filter?) blue hose were dry, but the one on the passengers side underneath the front of the pump were just starting to get wet. Is this where the weep hole is at?

And if I need to replace the fuel pump, do I really have to remove the turbo, as some instructions I've seen say? It looks a little tight to remove that banjo nut, but with a box-end wrench with maybe a little extra bend in it can it be done? I'd rather leave sleeping turbo dogs lie if could have my druthers.

Are there common mistakes to be avoided in this procedure? I really appreciate advise/experience you guys have to offer. Thanks again.

 

1-1/4" box end for the banjo bolt. Getting back on is the hard part. Loosen the fuel pump, then turn the motor over by hand till the plunger comes up from TDC and the whole pump kinda "pops" out.

 

Yeesh...I hope I don't have to tackle this anytime soon. I don't see any leaks yet, but it seems common with this gen.

 

It's a poor design and look at the age of these trucks.

 

Okay, got it. I mean, I got a new pump this morning. But one silly question to ask: "turn the motor by hand"? Do I need to disconnect the bottom radiator hose in order to get on the crank-pulley nut or is there an easier way I don't know about?

 

Nope. 15/16 IIRC. You can get in there.