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Hey guys so I decided to go with a diffrent motor in my f250.Was wondering what engine trans combo would fit with out major firewall mods.I was thinking a 302 out of a fox body mustang but don't know if I want manual or auto any suggestions.
You might want to post a little more info. What year is your truck and how do you intend to use it?
You will find just about every possible combo has been tried here and a lot will depend on what your skill levels are and what your budget is. Also let us know if you intend to change the front suspension as that can effect your options too.
IMO, just about any small block will work fine on these trucks, and an auto trans is generally easy to install and use as there are no clutch linkages to try to align and make work with a different trans than what was originally installed at the factory. Bib blocks will fit, but it takes a little more finessing to get the accessories to fit (like exhaust and steering boxes).
I will say that I have a 289 with a C4 in my truck, mainly because that is what came in it. Sitting outside, uncovered for at least 2 years when I got it. Changed the intake, carb, dizzy, and fluids and it fired up with 45 psi oil pressure. Trans is a ?, but the price was right. I plan on just driving it around as a DD, so that should be a decent combo.
Hey Newguy,
Welcome. We went with a 351W/AOD - a slightly different
combination than Dmack's 289/C4. Anything in the 289/302/351W family will fit fine as will many other combinations.
We went with an automatic because I thought my girls or wife might want to drive it - not happening. I wish I had put in a 5 speed manual.
Disc brakes are a modification that is popular, but not close to a necessity, especially if you have a tight budget, The OEM drums with modern linings are quite serviceable. Realize that you will need to do a lot more than just change the brake parts on the axle. This snowball effect can get very time consuming and expensive in a hurry. Be sure your budget and skills are up to the challenge before starting.
New kingpins and bushings, tie rod ends, adding a HD tie rod for future power steering upgrade, rebuild the springs including new eye bushings and shackle pins, rebuilding the OEM or replacing the steering gearbox with a Toyota power steering box, radial ply tires would be the recommended upgrade order.
Our trucks have an enormous engine compartment that can fit almost any engine/ tranny combo, from a tiny V-6 to a Viper, from a Hemi to a Coyote DOHC to a Cummings diesel. It all a matter of personal preference and again budget.
Thanx for the info axe. I plan on rebuilding the springs with new pins and bushings,New tierods and shocks and brakes. Can I use the stock master cylinder with the disc brakes up front and just put a porp. Valve in the back
Thanx for the info axe. I plan on rebuilding the springs with new pins and bushings,New tierods and shocks and brakes. Can I use the stock master cylinder with the disc brakes up front and just put a porp. Valve in the back
No, that's where the snowball price increase starts. You need a dual chamber MC with a larger front rez for the discs, a built in or external proportioning block, residual valves if retaining the stock underfloor MC location, a MC adapter mount, all new hard lines and flex hoses, and probably a power booster unless you have a strong right leg. (I tried using manual MC with front discs and didn't like the pedal effort required. The MC piston size and the pedal geometry needs to be matched to the caliper pistons and rear wheel cylinder size. You would be much better off buying a complete conversion kit with all matched parts from someone like Mid Fifty Mid Fifty F-100 Parts - Home. (get one of their free catalogs if you don't have it, there is a wealth of info besides parts in it. It belongs on every 53-56 owners reference shelf. Sy and her gals are extremely knowledgeable, helpful and the service can't be beat.) than buying everything piecemeal and hoping the parts are compatible. It will be cheaper/better in the long run.
There is only one tie rod on the 56, but it is known to be weak and flexible and subject to getting bent. Mid Fifty sells a HD replacement that is stronger and a must have if you change to power steering. It is inexpensive so I'd recommend changing it while you are changing the tie rod ends before you align it.
I'm with Ax on the power booster for the brakes. I was driving my F1 this weekend. I did put on front disks and read drums with a firewall mounted dual master cylinder. It stops fine, but I don't like the pedal force. One of my upcoming projects will be to add a power booster.
As far as your question on engine combinations, there are plenty of setups out there that will fit. My recommendation is to buy something from a donor vehicle so you can buy the complete setup....engine, flywheel, trans, starter, induction systems etc....even take the driveshaft so that you have the right yoke. Even if you rebuild everything, you'll have something to start with. Like Ben, I went with a 351w but mine was from an 89 F150 with a C6 automatic trans.
Modern electronically controlled fuel injected engines and matching automatic overdrive transmissions like the Ford so called MOD motor 4.6 with AOD are inexpensive and plentiful in the salvage yards or pulled from a complete used donor car or truck that's been wrecked in the side or rear. There are several companies including FoMoCo making conversion harnesses that make the computer wiring pretty much plug and play and/or a number of guys have now reverse engineered and simplified the stock harnesses. These engines are extremely dependable, give good gas mileage with the OD typically are mechanically sound so don't need rebuilding, and are easily increased in power for little money or work, often just a reflash or custom tune of the computer. If you decide to go that route, just be sure you get the original matching ECU unit and the wiring harness with the engine and tranny.
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