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I am not really sure where to post this but I recently bought a 2000 F450 with a 7.3. It will only start after being plugged in for awhile. Everything I have read and been told is it is the GPR. So I got a guy to show me the relay on his 7.3. I went home and looked at mine and now Im not sure whats up. It looks like I have 2 GPR. I dont remember seeing 2 on his pickup. I have a picture.
Also one other issue I have is when I push in the clutch it feels like it isnt doing anything at all. When starting it, pushing in the clutch and trying to put in gear it wont go. Almost feels like brakes with air in the lines. Is there a way to "Bleed" this system? There is plenty of fluid in the reservoir.
Not sure what its called but is this the right thing that activates the clutch inside the bell housing?
Is it something I can easily change? Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
One of those relays is for the AIH, which you don't really need. If you trace the wires, I think the front one, with the red wire goes to the AIH. It is connected to what looks like a stud on your intake right behind the relays. The other is for your glow plugs.
You can use a meter to see if the relay is coming on. It will energize for a couple minutes after you turn the key on, but only if the engine oil is below a certain temp. I believe it's 70 degrees.
I So I got a guy to show me the relay on his 7.3. I went home and looked at mine and now Im not sure whats up. It looks like I have 2 GPR. I dont remember seeing 2 on his pickup.
He might have had a California prepped truck, which only has one relay (for the AIH) and a Glow Plug Control Module (GPCM) to activate his glow plugs.
[quote=Samorkand;13228417]Whats the AIH? So is the back Relay or the one closest to the turbo the GPR?[/
The one thing I noticed about this FTE (Ford truck Enthusiast) sight is that everyone talks in, and with, acronyms. As a 22 year military man you need to illustrate an acronym in the beginning of your post so everyone will know WTF you are talking about as I did with FTE (Ford Truck Enthusiast).
When you are looking at your take you will see that there are wires from one of these solenoids running into the intake (its on your picture). This is the AIH, (Air Intake Heat) when a sensor provides ambient air temperature to your computer, and it is cold, the computer turns on this glow plug in your intake, heating the incoming air, going to your cylinders, aiding in "cold weather start ups". PS, by the way (BTW) or BTW (By The Way) this glow plug, which many believe is useless, blocks over 14% of the intake passage, reducing air charge and horsepower. They have delete kits for this AIH. Unless your in Minnesota or Fairbanks Alaska and all locations in between, delete it. Good luck on your repair. Email me if you need more help at Dpomrenke(at)hotmail.com
One other possibility - your friend has an early 1999 truck, which doesn't have the Air Intake Heater.
While the Glow Plug Relay is a prime suspect, stubborn cold starts can also be oil related. There have been countless improvements on starts with members who have changed from 15-40 oil to synthetic 5-40 oil. All 5-40 synthetics are not equal. Rotella T6 (the most common here by far) is a pseudo-synthetic oil, therefor the price is lower and that's why it is so widely used. While polling the injector guys, they suggested the true synthetics - like Mobile 1 (and many others). I use Mobile 1, and this is what my starts sound like:
As a 22 year military man you need to illustrate an acronym in the beginning of your post so everyone will know WTF you are talking about
Eh, that is one way. But since we're so used to doing it this way, and it's so deeply ingrained in us, I seriously doubt anyone will change their ways, much less have the whole forum change. Besides, with all the acronyms that are used, it's too much typing and just plain easier to answer the question on the occasional times the question on a specific acronym is asked.
Originally Posted by Tugly
One other possibility - your friend has an early 1999 truck, which doesn't have the Air Intake Heater.
Excellent Tug. I just learned that a few months ago myself, but completely blanked on it for this post.
Stewart
PS - Dave, I see you didn't write out the acronym for WTF.
Of course, that's a good thing!
Thanks guys. My dad is an old timer (87 years old) and has been a mechanic his entire life. Grew up fixing OTR semis, cars, buses, motorcycles, lawn mowers, tractors, etc.. My dad had his own shop so I learned from the best, but time marches on and with all this new technology, my dad is lost when it comes to the DI (Direct injection) diesels. I am learning a lot ab out my 7.3 and 6.0, especially from this sight.
Just thinking about all those guys that wonder what is DI, IDI, ICP, SES, STC, IPR, etc.... I bet there are 25 acronyms that apply to these rigs. Would be kinda cool if someone complied a complete list and put it somewhere everyone/anyone could get at it.
I really appreciate all the help and suggestions. I'm on nights at work and finally had a chance to check that relay. Its fine. I turned the key on and let it sit for awhile while testing. Got in and tried to start. Turned over pretty good then started to act like it wanted to start just never would fire up. I turned the key off and back on and it just turned and turned. So I turned key on let it sit almost a minute. Then hit the key. It turned a couple times and fired right up. Could this mean the Glow Plugs are bad?
I looked around on the Clutch issue I have too. I cant see where there is anyplace to bleed that system.
Unrelated to both these is an Oil leak I have. A few people I know thought it may be coming from the top of the engine. I looked all over and couldnt see anything then looked underneath. Right near the Oil Filter it looks like the pan gasket is leaking. Is this a common issue? Or just one of those things. Sorta looks like I can maybe fish the pan out and regasket it. Not sure though.
I really appreciate all the help and suggestions. I'm on nights at work and finally had a chance to check that relay. Its fine. I turned the key on and let it sit for awhile while testing. Got in and tried to start. Turned over pretty good then started to act like it wanted to start just never would fire up. I turned the key off and back on and it just turned and turned. So I turned key on let it sit almost a minute. Then hit the key. It turned a couple times and fired right up. Could this mean the Glow Plugs are bad?
I looked around on the Clutch issue I have too. I cant see where there is anyplace to bleed that system.
Unrelated to both these is an Oil leak I have. A few people I know thought it may be coming from the top of the engine. I looked all over and couldnt see anything then looked underneath. Right near the Oil Filter it looks like the pan gasket is leaking. Is this a common issue? Or just one of those things. Sorta looks like I can maybe fish the pan out and regasket it. Not sure though.
I've read on here these don't have a oil pan gasket, it's silicone. The only way to fix it is pull the motor because you have to have the engine upside down so no oil gets on the silicone till it's dried. Evidently if you just pull the pan, oil will drip out of the engine for a week.
You could ohm out the plugs and harness, I'm not sure what they are suppose to be but i'm sure someone will chime in. I could be oil problems too, how old is your oil and what kind is it. Some on here have had better luck with 5-40 synthetic especially stock injectors with a lot of miles.