Cooling issues
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Senior User
Joined: May 2013
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From: Atlanta
Cooling issues
I started the flathead for maybe the second time today(not easy to do after it has sat for a while) and after letting it idle for about 10 minutes the radiator cap overflowed (it is a 4# cap). I let it cool down while I went to find a new one (also 4#) After refilling it and hooking up the fan that was disconnected I put on the new cap and restarted the engine. I checked the head temperature constantly with a laser thermometer and I noticed that in about 5 minutes (maybe a little more) the passenger side got up to about 175 while the drivers side got up to 200 on the back side of the head. After reading VanPelts page about overheating I am planning to replace the thermostats but I am trying to decide How to determine whether the water pumps need to be rebuilt/replaced/nothing at all. They are turning.
Also, what else should I be considering? I would love to do a tear down of the whole engine but it just isn't in the cards right now.
Also, what else should I be considering? I would love to do a tear down of the whole engine but it just isn't in the cards right now.
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From: Atlanta
Well I bought a new driver side temp gauge and installed it and restarted the truck. I easily got up to 200 deg F on the drivers side. right at about that point . Noticed a light steam coming from the area of the electric fan. Up to that point the radiator top was actually pretty cool (90 deg) I am assuming that I have functioning thermostats set for around 180 deg. I also noticed a slight damp area on the front of the radiator. Unless someone can tell me different I am assuming that I have a small radiator leak. The probable radiator leak does not yet explain why I am getting so hot on that side.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Utah
I would recommend pulling the radiator out and having a radiator shop clean it out. I had that done with mine and it keeps everything where it needs to be now. cost was $60. if you have a small leak I imagine it would cost a little bit more to fix that but wouldnt think it would be to much?
buying another used one could put you right back int he same boat?
I would also recommend pulling the existing t stats out and cleaning and testing them at the very least if not replacing them. then flush out your engine block with the hose with as much pressure as possible to try and get any loose material out of the block that may have settled in there over the years. (this is easier with water pumps off but I would try that for starters, you can always remove and replace the water pumps later if its still not cooling.
I have seen once where the entire impeller on a pump was rusted away so it wasn't really circulating much water. (But thats probably not very common)
Good luck
buying another used one could put you right back int he same boat?
I would also recommend pulling the existing t stats out and cleaning and testing them at the very least if not replacing them. then flush out your engine block with the hose with as much pressure as possible to try and get any loose material out of the block that may have settled in there over the years. (this is easier with water pumps off but I would try that for starters, you can always remove and replace the water pumps later if its still not cooling.
I have seen once where the entire impeller on a pump was rusted away so it wasn't really circulating much water. (But thats probably not very common)
Good luck
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2012
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Yes, any decent shop can check the coolant for combustion gases. It used to cost $20.00 or less. It doesn't take long.
Link broke. Stupid cell phone.
Link broke. Stupid cell phone.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Morgan Hill, CA
Or you can buy the tool and test it yourself:
I would start with the thermostats if it has been sitting for a long time....and flushing out the radiator.
Dan
I would start with the thermostats if it has been sitting for a long time....and flushing out the radiator.
Dan
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Joined: May 2013
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From: Atlanta
Thanks! I was planing on ordering the 160 deg thermostats and buying this tester this afternoon
OEM/Block Tester (27145) | Block Tester | AutoZone.com
Not sure if anyone has any experience with this one. They seem to all be about the same design with minor differences.
OEM/Block Tester (27145) | Block Tester | AutoZone.com
Not sure if anyone has any experience with this one. They seem to all be about the same design with minor differences.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,994
Likes: 3
From: Morgan Hill, CA
Make sure you order the test fluid to go with it. The tool pulls the air from your radiator through the fluid....products of combustion will make the fluid change colors. That would indicate a bad head gasket or a cracked block.
If you don't find any combustion gasses in your radiator, follow jmadsen's advice and do a system flush.
How long was this one sitting?
Dan
If you don't find any combustion gasses in your radiator, follow jmadsen's advice and do a system flush.
How long was this one sitting?
Dan
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From: Atlanta
I don't know the whole history of the car but from what I have learned the previous owner bought it in 2005 and did a fair amount of work to it. There is some evidence that he was driving it but nothing solid. He died in March 2012. So the long answer is that it has been sitting at least a year and possibly more.
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From: Atlanta
Ok I got the tool from OReilly's. Apparently despite what the Web page says these tools are not for sale just rent. No matter I got it home and tried it out. I had to drain out several inches of fluid so none would get sucked into the tool. On my first attempt I did not have enough drained out and as soon as I hit 180deg the level in the radiator increased as the thermostats opened and sucked it into the tool. On my second try(after cleaning the tool) I let the test go on for a full 4 minutes to make absolutely sure the thermostats were opened (directions recommend 2).
THE FLUID NEVER TURNED YELLOW!!!
So now my question is if a truck is just sitting in my driveway idling with an electric fan going and what I assume are 180 deg thermostats what temperature should I expect and at what temperature should I get worried? Maybe my reading on heat being the enemy of these flatheads has made me overly paranoid.
Incidentally this time I got no stream from the radiator. Not real clear on this one yet.
THE FLUID NEVER TURNED YELLOW!!!
So now my question is if a truck is just sitting in my driveway idling with an electric fan going and what I assume are 180 deg thermostats what temperature should I expect and at what temperature should I get worried? Maybe my reading on heat being the enemy of these flatheads has made me overly paranoid.
Incidentally this time I got no stream from the radiator. Not real clear on this one yet.
Believe Nothing
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: W. Central FL.
What kind of shroud do you have on the fan? Do you have good airflow through the entire frontal area? I have always been of the belief that letting an engine sit and idle is not good for it. If your thermostats are 180 deg, the engine will run at least that. My SWAG is you had the radiator overfilled initially and that is why it puked. Run it, drive it, let it puke coolant until it pukes no more. So long as coolant is above the tubes, you're good.
FWIW, back in the day, I drove a slightly warmed 52 Merc for about a year with no fan. I carefully timed my stops and of course, there was little traffic and no traffic jams then. JMHO, but 200 deg is not going to hurt it.
Just don't add coolant while the engine is hot.
FWIW, back in the day, I drove a slightly warmed 52 Merc for about a year with no fan. I carefully timed my stops and of course, there was little traffic and no traffic jams then. JMHO, but 200 deg is not going to hurt it.
Just don't add coolant while the engine is hot.
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Senior User
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From: Atlanta
This is the shroud that is on it.
It is probably a little on the small side. Once the truck is cooled down completely I will check on the fill level. It went up when the thermostats opened and since I turned the truck off it has been going down. I assume this means I have crap in the bottom of the radiator. I will be flushing this weekend though I still have to determine how I do that.
Thanks for all the help,
It is probably a little on the small side. Once the truck is cooled down completely I will check on the fill level. It went up when the thermostats opened and since I turned the truck off it has been going down. I assume this means I have crap in the bottom of the radiator. I will be flushing this weekend though I still have to determine how I do that.
Thanks for all the help,