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Went and picked the motor up yesterday, I'll start removing the old engine today.
This one looks nice, the oil is very clean and it looks like it has been taken care of.
I went to a speed shop where the shop owner helped me get the motor loaded up. This engine was the stock take out from a customer's car that they put a built motor in. The customer first wanted this engine stroked and they started working on it when the customer decided he wanted to go with a build from scratch. They built the motor and the shop owner took the original engine in payment for the work he did on it so the customer only had to pay for the new motor build.
Because of the low (103k) mileage he wanted $600 for the long block but he was getting ready to move to a bigger shop and took my offer of $350 to get it out of there.
Very cool! How do you block the line off the valve cover of those wen you convert it to carb, my friends is spraying oil out of his, and on his truck avenger carb theirs no line for it Togo to
I was ready to take the hood off but I didn't have to. I usually remove things as I need to. In the past I've found that I've gone and taken so much more apart than I ever needed to and just made more work for myself.
One other possible issue: the fuel pump eccentric. The double roller timing sprocket on the 5.0 is thicker than '70 302 sprocket. Don't know about the '83. The 5.0 uses a 2-piece eccentric (no longer available from Ford) that is thinner than the older 1-piece. If you put a 1-piece eccentric on the 5.0 sprocket it will hit the timing cover. If you need a 2-piece and can't find one, some guys have milled .100" off a one piece and used that.
I stripped the old engine and found that it has a double roller timing chain and a two piece eccentric. It's like the eccentric then a ring that rides on the outside of it that actually pushes on the pump lever. That means I don't have to change anything right?
My old water pump and timing cover are cast iron, this was originally an inboard boat engine. How it got in the truck is beyond me but it's a marine engine.
I stripped the old engine and found that it has a double roller timing chain and a two piece eccentric. It's like the eccentric then a ring that rides on the outside of it that actually pushes on the pump lever. That means I don't have to change anything right?
My old water pump and timing cover are cast iron, this was originally an inboard boat engine. How it got in the truck is beyond me but it's a marine engine.
You're all set. My E7 engine didn't have an eccentric and I don't expect yours will either. But the old engine has what you need. (My '72 didn't)
Check that there's room in the E7 cam sprocket dowel hole for the tab on the eccentric to fit in. And, if the cam sprocket bolts are different lengths, use the old one.
Ok great, thanks. I blocked off the EGR ports in the back of the head yesterday then it started raining so I didn't get much else done. I'm going to do more on it today.
It rained all day yesterday but I managed to sand my old valve covers and oil pan down to the bare metal and then I undercoated them. It came out better than expected.
It's raining again now, albeit lightly, I'm hoping to get something done today anyhow.
It's been raining constantly for the last few days, I may be able to finally get something done today.
I got the distributor that I ordered from rockauto with the steel gear. Everywhere online says the steel gear has a smooth, machined finish while the cast gear is all bumpy looking.
Well, I'm here to tell you they both look the same. They look so much alike that I had to take a file to each one and see if it's really steel.
A couple strokes with the file on its side put a big gouge in the old distributor gear collar. That's obviously cast iron. When I tried it on the collar of the new distributor, it barely made a mark, just sort of got shiny but didn't take off any material. That is enough proof for me.
I gave most of the parts a rinse down as they were all muddy, the truck sees a lot of off-road. The parts are still dirty but a lot better, I wasn't going to scrub them.
I sanded the valve covers and oil pan, which were getting rusty, down to the bare metal and put several coats of rubber undercoating on them. I'm pleased with the way that came out.
After re-sealing and assembling everything, I put it in the engine bay and bolted the trans up with a couple of bolts and called it a day. Hopefully I can get some more done after work today if it doesn't rain.
I got the steel gear distributor, plugged the EGR ports and used my old water pump. I'm glad I used the old water pump with the old timing cover because I realized the water pump that came on the motor would be spinning the wrong way if I used it.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.