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86 model A/C question

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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 03:25 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Eallend7
he put 134 in an r12 system?

I did that with my '84. When I got the truck the AC was dead and the system looked like hell and the compressor looked like it was going to fall apart. I figured I had nothing to lose so I put the adapters on it and charged it with R134. Ran it for years like that. Worked fine. IIRC I had to add a can about 7 years later.

Not that I recommend that, knowing more about AC systems now than I did then I'd change the dryer, (good idea no matter what you put it your system), and as mentioned earlier a new orifice tube, (super cheap). Flush it, pull a vacuum and go for it.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 04:00 PM
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Alright everyone who opts to change dryer and orifice tube, pull a vacuum and recharge with 134? or do the r12 replacement, or what?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 04:06 PM
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I have been doing AC service for over 20 Years, The best performance of the AC will be acheived with an R12 replacement vs R134a. Those are the fittings in your picture.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by xcite
I have been doing AC service for over 20 Years, The best performance of the AC will be acheived with an R12 replacement vs R134a. Those are the fittings in your picture.
Roger that master AC technician SIR!
i'll probably do that here soon once i get her all put back together and runnin.
Do you still recommend a new dryer and orifice? wheres the orifice tube in a setup like mine gonna be located? i thought they were usually in a metal line? only place with metal lines on mine are the nipples going into the heater box and the barbs coming off teh condenser
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 04:23 PM
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Also i read theres a special tool for recharging true r12 systems that you need to thread into a true r12 can??
So i'll pull a vacuum on my high side, completely suck it out which will take any moisture out of the system, if i do it with somethin liek a vacuum pump, vacuum till i see no more steam or moisture, then hook my can to my low side and put her all in? sound right?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Eallend7
Roger that master AC technician SIR!
i'll probably do that here soon once i get her all put back together and runnin.
Do you still recommend a new dryer and orifice? wheres the orifice tube in a setup like mine gonna be located? i thought they were usually in a metal line? only place with metal lines on mine are the nipples going into the heater box and the barbs coming off teh condenser

If your system has not been opened up and you are just recharging due to low freon level due to age, no need to replace any parts just recharge and enjoy.
Check pressures when you go to recharge if all looks good but pressures just running low just recharge it. If pressure are off then look into new filter and orfice possibly just depends what you find.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 04:27 PM
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R12 is better, problem is you can't buy it. Oh, the certified tech can, and it's way overpriced, but for the Do It Yourselfer you're pretty much stuck with R134.
I can't speak to the Freeze 12, never heard of it, probably isn't legal in California. California would out-law breathing if they could get away with it.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 04:29 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Eallend7
Also i read theres a special tool for recharging true r12 systems that you need to thread into a true r12 can??
So i'll pull a vacuum on my high side, completely suck it out which will take any moisture out of the system, if i do it with somethin liek a vacuum pump, vacuum till i see no more steam or moisture, then hook my can to my low side and put her all in? sound right?

Yes you need the right fittings to hook up to the system, and if you are just going to recharge then make sure not to overcharge. If there is a tag somewhere that lables system volume reduce it by 10% for R12 replacement freon.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Chevy_Eater
R12 is better, problem is you can't buy it. Oh, the certified tech can, and it's way overpriced, but for the Do It Yourselfer you're pretty much stuck with R134.
I can't speak to the Freeze 12, never heard of it, probably isn't legal in California. California would out-law breathing if they could get away with it.
cold hard fact
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 04:35 PM
  #25  
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if you look it up you can even get Freeze12 on ebay.

Just a few facts below.

Freeze 12 FAQ's
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 04:37 PM
  #26  
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another option

Enviro-Safe Refrigerants
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 05:48 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Chevy_Eater
R12 is better, problem is you can't buy it.

really?? i am glad you told me that, because i swear i just bought 6 cans last week for $14 per lb



Oh, the certified tech can, and it's way overpriced, but for the Do It Yourselfer you're pretty much stuck with R134.
I can't speak to the Freeze 12, never heard of it, probably isn't legal in California. California would out-law breathing if they could get away with it.
freeze 12 is US EPA certified legal in all 50 states
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 05:49 PM
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If it is low than it is leaking. A/c sytem is a sealed system an it just doesn't go away due to age. R12 will be the coldest.

I just did a 134 conversion on mine. I replaced the dryer and compressor, it was toast, and put a red orfice tube in it. Mine blows at 50 on the road an goes up to around 60 at stops. Its not perfect but its better than 90 outside
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 06:17 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by whalebus2112
If it is low than it is leaking. A/c sytem is a sealed system an it just doesn't go away due to age. R12 will be the coldest.

I just did a 134 conversion on mine. I replaced the dryer and compressor, it was toast, and put a red orfice tube in it. Mine blows at 50 on the road an goes up to around 60 at stops. Its not perfect but its better than 90 outside

Some AC systems will leak some when things contract in the colder weather of winter and just over time due to the small molecule size of the freon.

Many of the replacements to R12 are actually colder.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 07:31 PM
  #30  
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so whats the verdict freeze 12?
 
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