I'm a bit perplexed. My electric temp gauge was reading hot, but not all the time, and not hot enough to be worried, but higher than normal nonetheless. I installed a manual gauge, high quality cheap C. crap, Sunpro, and it is more stationary, but it still seems to go hotter than normal, quicker than normal, and jump around more than usual.

I'm wondering if the blades, the ...impellers of the water pump would be wearing out. Is that possible after only 3 years?

 

I got one of these and I've never been sorry (and they're dirt cheap anymore too):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Non-Contact-IR-Laser-Pointer-Infrared-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature-Gun-Tester-/140904194886?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20ce8b6346
It's great for pointing around the engine and seeing the actual temperature.

 

Thanks for the reply and the link, AB. I think you mentioned it before in regard to my carb getting hot. I guess I'll have to get one. I certainly can see the benefit to having one, rather than guessing. k

 

For $20, I could never understand why I didn't get one long ago. It comes in handy everywhere. Point it at the in and out on a heater core and see if one's cooler. I've used it to check the temp of the floor of the intake, fuel lines, etc. Plus, just pointing it at the thermostat housing tells me if it's working right. Then go into the kitchen and point it at lunch to see if it's done cooking.

 

Okay, AB, "maybe we're spending too much time in the garage. Let's put away the new toy." lol. That's funny.

 

The cooking of a road-kill lunch might take some very precise culinary skills that require the use of a pointer thermometer.

 

"pre heat exhaust manifold to 400* and wrap dead meat in tinfoil and cruise at 2400 RPMs for 20 minutes"



Sam

 

On a more serious note, what brand and grade of thermostat did you use?

Stant premiums are good, but nothing beats a motorcraft. I won't touch an economy grade thermostat.

The water pump is worth a look though.

And be wary of reman pumps.

Sam

 

Thanks, Rusty. I bought a Murray thermo. They offered one that that when it fails it fails in the open position, but that seemed designed to fail, so I went middle of the road; one step down in price.

I have to admit I really like having a mechanical gauge with the sensor in the block, where Ford put it. I can see every time the thermo opens. I just feel like I have a true account of how the engine is doing, rather than having the sensor in the water neck, and reading the temp of coolant coming out of block. k

 

You MUST read the book, Manifold Destiny! Really!

 

Back in the day...some of us would cook on the manifolds of the trucks we drove. Wrap a potato in tinfoil, lay it and a can of beans or soup on the exhaust manifold of a CAT 3406, drive for a couple of hours and dinner is served!

 

 

Awwwww.... I actually had the notion a year or two ago to sometime sit down and write a cookbook like that. I didn't know it actually existed.

 

I guess it is time to pull the water pump. I am still having the same issue, and am wondering if some of the impellers are missing? Could that happen in under 3 years?

Anyway, just to refresh everyone, I have a new manual gauge in the block, and a new 198 thermostat. I have elec fans too. At a light the temp climbs to 210 and stays until I start to accelerate. Once the engine revs, the temp quickly drops, as though coolant is just not circulating as it should with the pump at idle. Once I'm rolling, and I mean within 60 feet, the temp drops to 185 or so. Fans are working fine.

Thx

 

AB: You need to write the compliment book, one that would be the perfect companion to that cook book--The A/C Beer Cooler book, how to build and maintain a small six pack cooler with your air conditioning unit under the hood.

Heh, that would be a fun one. Although, I may have to get A/C for that! Something I've never really had.

But, I know a bunch of guys waterproof their center consoles in the Broncos since they're so big and roomy inside, and insulate them for beer. I still need to do that...