after reading about it on these forums for a while I have decided to sell my old distributor with the pertronix ignitor II and go the way of Duraspark II I went and picked up a module from an 1980 pick up for 15 bucks I have a few options for the distributor I can get a used one or get a Cardone remake not sure what's going to be best quality wise and my other question is what would be the best most powerful coil I could put with out damaging anything and is there anything else I might be overlooking any help is appretiated.

 

Your post was pretty hard to read. Please slow down and use some punctuation so that we can understand what you're trying to say.

Stick with the factory coil. "Performance" coils can use a lower primary resistance that puts stress on the ignition module. A lot of the hype surrounding "performance" coils is based on marketing literature that doesn't actually have much value in a true laboratory setting.

A "Cardone remake" is not a "remake." It's going to be an original distributor that has been remanufactured. Nobody can tell you which is better because we don't know the condition of the used distributor. Personally I'd buy a remanufactured distributor because then you get a warranty.

I don't know what kind of ignition module you bought, but the foreign-designed replacement modules from the parts store are garbage - especially the ones that cost $20 or $30. I would not pay $15 for a used module and take my chances; I'd rather spend $70 for a new Motorcraft unit (which is what I do).

 

Sorry about the punctuation but I guess I failed to mention I am going to wire the system into a 67 F100 as for the module I have a genuine motorcraft module I got the one out of the wrecking yard truck (also genuine) in case I made a mistake wiring it up. I figure it's cheaper to burn up a 15$ module than a 70$ one in case something goes wrong as for the Distributor Cardone does sell reman but they also have a 100% new one and my question was more if anyone had experienced any quality issues with them or if I was better off rebuilding a factory one but I guess I should have been more clear. My main question was what other people had experienced with different coils.

 

In my time I have converted maybe 5 or 6 vehicles to DurasparkII. I found the easiest way for me was to use the coil that was already happy with the existing wiring. If a resistor wire was need for starting, then it generally was already in the circuit. This isn't always true I guess but generally is.

I have actually used the TFI coil successfully when changing from a TFI diz. I never have had a module failure in this fashion. If you're starting from scratch and have no harness, you will need to have a resisted circuit in place in the "run" situation if you use an older canister coil. Basically use the wiring diagram needed for the type coil you use.

About Distributors, keep in mind the spark curve for most are originally set for vehicles running an egr valve so if you are NOT doing so, you may want to re-curve the diz to avoid some "pinging" under certain conditions. For this reason, getting a used diz and rebuilding it yourself may be preferred, since you will have to take it apart anyway to set the curve. It's not necessary right away, but you will want to do this eventually for optimum performance.

Best wishes

 

It's actually the other way around - the resistor is used to power the coil during RUN; the resistor is bypassed in START. This is shown in most wiring diagrams. The resistor is called a "ballast" resistor; the goal being to keep the voltage at the coil relatively equal between START (at which time the battery is drug down by the starter) and RUN.

To the OP - I can't understand anything you're saying.

 

Thanks for that..I stand corrected.(and will make a correction) It's a situation of I actually KNOW that, I just made a dyslexic error.. (an example for not reviewing b4 pressing "enter")
Glad somebody is awake this am.

 

It's all good

 

Thanks I almost over looked the ballast resister I glad some of you understand my questions. I understand how it works just looking for input and personal experiences with different pieces of the puzzle when I'm done I will have another new motorcraft module and use the used one as a spare

 

"My main question was what other people had experienced with different coils."

What fmc400 said about coils. Any stock replacement type coil is all that is needed...unless one wants bragging rights for a high $ coil hanging on the engine. Coils will only use as much power as it takes to fire a spark plug even though the advertized capacity might be as much as 3, 4 or more times as much as actually used.

 

Harte3 what coil do you run?

 

See my signature...ACCEL Super Stock coil. I bought it when it was priced little more than an outright stock coil.

 

Just kidding Harte3. But I have another question for all where can I get the pigtails for the distibutor and factory coil and how are you guys recurving you distributors are there springs available for this or weights like a GM im still waiting on my distributor and the only thing I have to look at is my old points one

 

Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index

FORDSIX PERFORMANCE • View topic - Recurve Results

Wander through those sites.

 

Napa. I have built my own harnesses mostly. Since I have stripped a few harnesses from 80's Ford products I have found generally the same plugs in various harnesses (including some frame harnesses) that I have been able to re-use. Particularly the 3-wire plugs on the diz-side. The 4-wire plug I know is available from Napa although not cheap.

Sometimes the diz-side 3-way male plug has the aligning tang in the wrong spot, but a simple trim handles that.

Here is a link to a page that give the basic part #'s Hopefully the links are current. (It's for a 2.8 but the parts numbers are the same for the plugs)

The Ford Ranger/Bronco II 2.8L Duraspark Ignition Conversion

Also Mr Gasket has a spring kit for re-curving. (4 get the number-oreilly's has it) You must however do your own centrifugal adv work unless you have a friend with an older Sunn machine..I you find one of those ur GOLDEN...the link that harte provided is an excellent primer. Keep in mind that for the lower cent adv shaft, any Ford duraspark diz will have a similar lower shaft, unless it's for a 351 or other ccw rotate diz..( I think I got that right)..anyway be aware that some diz's rotate the wrong way for a 300 six lower shaft donation.

On Edit I would like to add: I have found that to convert a motor from say EECIV to Duraspark, it is easier to change systems one at a time. IE: change the diz, leaving the original working carb in place..get the ignition side converted and running good, then tackle the carb issues. Doing the job this way solves one problem at a time, taking away the possibility that if it doesn't start, you may not be sure which problem you have.." fuel or ignition"...just a humble opinion, gleaned from an experience or two...the ones I'd rather not remember.

Soldier on pilgrim

 

Thanks to all for their input and information I should be getting my new distributor any day now so I can get all the wiring done. I should have the fame to the truck painted and the engine back in within a month or so and then I can see the result of my efforts and everyone's input again thanks to all