1986 5.0 timing?
#1
#4
Ok, the procedure for setting base timing is fairly simple assuming you have a timing light.
1) Locate the timing marks on the crank pulley and the tab on the timing cover (use a bright colored paint pen to highlight them if you need to). The mark on the pulley is a groove cut into the surface of the crank pulley/harmonic balancer. The marks on the tab will indicate how far from TDC (Top Dead Center) the base timing actually is.
2) Run the engine for a minimum of 2 minutes at 2000 RPM or 10 minutes at idle. This will ensure full operating temperature which is critical.
3) Shut the engine off and remove the SPOUT (SPark OUTput) connector (which is actually nothing more than a shunt in the PINK or GREEN/YELLOW wire between the TFI (Thick Film Integrated/Ignition) module and the distributor. It is a small grey plastic plug.
4) Loosen the distributor lock-down bolt (located at the base of the distributor where the casting meets the engine block). Only loosen it enough to let you rotate the distributor slowly by hand. (Too loose and the distributor will not stay where you turn it... too tight and you won't be able to turn it to set the timing).
5) Connect your timing light.
6) Restart the engine and, using the timing light, observe where the timing mark on the crank pulley hits the timing marks on the tab off the front of the timing cover.
7) Adjust the timing by turning the distributor. Clockwise will advance the timing while counter-clockwise will retard it. The standard for EEC-IV engines is 10º BTDC (Before Top Dead Center) but many folks find that 11º yields better throttle response.
8) Once base timing is set, tighten the lock-down bolt to ensure the timing does not change.
9) Shut the engine off and replace the SPOUT connector.
10) Disconnect the battery for about 5-10 minutes to clear any fault Codes generated.
11) Reconnect the battery and disconnect the timing light.
Setting base timing isn't a cure-all but ensuring that it is set properly will yield better fuel economy, throttle response and will help to reduce any "false positives" for other faults in the system.
1) Locate the timing marks on the crank pulley and the tab on the timing cover (use a bright colored paint pen to highlight them if you need to). The mark on the pulley is a groove cut into the surface of the crank pulley/harmonic balancer. The marks on the tab will indicate how far from TDC (Top Dead Center) the base timing actually is.
2) Run the engine for a minimum of 2 minutes at 2000 RPM or 10 minutes at idle. This will ensure full operating temperature which is critical.
3) Shut the engine off and remove the SPOUT (SPark OUTput) connector (which is actually nothing more than a shunt in the PINK or GREEN/YELLOW wire between the TFI (Thick Film Integrated/Ignition) module and the distributor. It is a small grey plastic plug.
4) Loosen the distributor lock-down bolt (located at the base of the distributor where the casting meets the engine block). Only loosen it enough to let you rotate the distributor slowly by hand. (Too loose and the distributor will not stay where you turn it... too tight and you won't be able to turn it to set the timing).
5) Connect your timing light.
6) Restart the engine and, using the timing light, observe where the timing mark on the crank pulley hits the timing marks on the tab off the front of the timing cover.
7) Adjust the timing by turning the distributor. Clockwise will advance the timing while counter-clockwise will retard it. The standard for EEC-IV engines is 10º BTDC (Before Top Dead Center) but many folks find that 11º yields better throttle response.
8) Once base timing is set, tighten the lock-down bolt to ensure the timing does not change.
9) Shut the engine off and replace the SPOUT connector.
10) Disconnect the battery for about 5-10 minutes to clear any fault Codes generated.
11) Reconnect the battery and disconnect the timing light.
Setting base timing isn't a cure-all but ensuring that it is set properly will yield better fuel economy, throttle response and will help to reduce any "false positives" for other faults in the system.
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turnkyle
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