Advice with engine selection.
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 935
Likes: 2
From: Vancouver, WA
Thanks for the input fellas, very appreciated! I've towed a couple times with a newer 5.4L (2005) in my Dad's F150. It seems ok, but wasn't sure how the older (2000-2003) performed as it's power ratings were a bit less. I did go out and test drove the above mentioned 2003 F150 Heritage Edition truck I was mainly inquiring about. That thing did have a pretty good snap, especially when i buried it into passing gear. It's has a 3.55 limited slip along with a Flowmaster cat-back exh. system. It's no early 70s 460, but went pretty strong. I don't really tow much other then a small garbage trailer and occasionally a car trailer. I have a '76 Short-wide with a 460 that I've towed with many times over. Great truck and if need be i can reserve that for short heavy hauls. I just need something that can get me out of town and be able to pass a gas station or three!
Further research into these 2003 'Heritage' trucks, seems as if they are a pretty rare breed. Needless to say, kinda fell in love with these trucks over the more typical F150s. The options list and color scheme is just awesome. Amongst the 15k produced that year only, finding one in the configuration i want with a 5.4L rather than the 4.6L is gonna be next to impossible.
Further research into these 2003 'Heritage' trucks, seems as if they are a pretty rare breed. Needless to say, kinda fell in love with these trucks over the more typical F150s. The options list and color scheme is just awesome. Amongst the 15k produced that year only, finding one in the configuration i want with a 5.4L rather than the 4.6L is gonna be next to impossible.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 462
Likes: 1
From: MN
Just to clear something up here about towing.
Towing on a 'bumper ball' has very low weight limits and used for no more than a trailer that does not legally require it's own brakes such as in the 2500 lb +/- class total weight of a utility or small popup camper, boat etc.
The big weight is for a chassis mounted hitch, then there are several classes of those.
With the class of hitch you need to stay within it's rating for total weight and still not exceed the 600 lb. tongue weight limit on the hitch and the Ball /bar combination.
The 600 lb. is for the load on the truck axle and extra down loading that happens during towing.
Equalizing bars are to project the tongue weight over the front and rear suspension through the frame with the 'side benefit' of keeping the whole deal more level.
Go to an RV dealer and check out the sizes for the knowledge of it.
When the total breakdown is done, tire capacity, spring limits, engine size, gear ratio and transmission type is all involved in the final outcome for total combine weight limit specified.
An example is on tires, a P type tire is 'de-rated' for weight by 10% for towing.
That means if your towing serious weight, you need to consider an LT 'light truck' tire not a P type if towing near the limit, for long term safety. All it takes is looking at the load ratings for the tire type and size.
Lots of people cheat here and there on some limit and get away with it but it does not make it ok to do so just because it can be done.
It's a matter of safety to others on the road.
Good luck.
Towing on a 'bumper ball' has very low weight limits and used for no more than a trailer that does not legally require it's own brakes such as in the 2500 lb +/- class total weight of a utility or small popup camper, boat etc.
The big weight is for a chassis mounted hitch, then there are several classes of those.
With the class of hitch you need to stay within it's rating for total weight and still not exceed the 600 lb. tongue weight limit on the hitch and the Ball /bar combination.
The 600 lb. is for the load on the truck axle and extra down loading that happens during towing.
Equalizing bars are to project the tongue weight over the front and rear suspension through the frame with the 'side benefit' of keeping the whole deal more level.
Go to an RV dealer and check out the sizes for the knowledge of it.
When the total breakdown is done, tire capacity, spring limits, engine size, gear ratio and transmission type is all involved in the final outcome for total combine weight limit specified.
An example is on tires, a P type tire is 'de-rated' for weight by 10% for towing.
That means if your towing serious weight, you need to consider an LT 'light truck' tire not a P type if towing near the limit, for long term safety. All it takes is looking at the load ratings for the tire type and size.
Lots of people cheat here and there on some limit and get away with it but it does not make it ok to do so just because it can be done.
It's a matter of safety to others on the road.
Good luck.
Thanks.
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