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Old Jun 4, 2013 | 08:57 AM
  #16  
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Got my aluminum fuel tubing ordered!
30ft of 3/8 ought to do it eh?

New Speedway 3 8" OD Aluminum Fuel Line Tubing 30 Foot Roll | eBay

Also got the check valve for between tank feed and return loop T fitting.

I already have 2 12v selonoid valves laying around that i might use... but im doing my best to keep this as simple as possible.

The filter head that i put on when i went through the hutch mod was purchased with this conversion in mind. It has a built in heater, so i can start heating immediately with 12v... i still need to play with the circuit to see if i can fiddle with temp...

So... electric heat between tank and pump...
Planning TiH from pump to motor.
Return from motor will remain oem to the tank selector... from there... takes its normal path through the alt tank return line... but it does not go to the alt tank...
It T's in between the tank and pump just before the filter... so yes it goes through it again.

The idea is heat retention and switching simplicity...

Yes... there will be pictures. Lots of pictures...
 
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 09:41 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Christof13T
Sort of...

Im leaving the regulator on the fuel bowl... but removing the lines and capping the ports.
The lines are going into a t fitting with a cv for vo.

Vo pump gets turned on... runs at higher pressure than d2... overpowers cv's and pushes its way thru the frx lines to the heads... the cv at the t will keep d2 from backflowing into the vo system.

If it works... it will be the simplest switching design i have seen so far.
Once the design is proven... i will work on the bowl delete and full regulated return.
Eventually i would like to be pushing around 450 on vo.

The last post about the regulator is for that future stage...
Im guessing the cheapo regulator wont pass near enough volume but i love the color so hoping it might work...
How are you going to purge your system?
 
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 10:10 PM
  #18  
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Vo pump switches off and return loop stays closed until i flip the switch... diesel pushes the vo thru the injectors for a few minutes before shutdown. This will be interim pending the prototype of an idea i have for a bowl delete/switching manifold combo.

Irritating that stainless 12v valves are so dang expensive!
 
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 12:25 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Christof13T
Vo pump switches off and return loop stays closed until i flip the switch... diesel pushes the vo thru the injectors for a few minutes before shutdown. This will be interim pending the prototype of an idea i have for a bowl delete/switching manifold combo.

Irritating that stainless 12v valves are so dang expensive!
Alternative Auto Care: Fuel Switching Valve

These are the cheapest 12v valves they are aluminum. 1-2 are on all the time when 12v applied 1-3 on. Plug #2

Here is mine I am redoing my system as we speak.

<a href="http://s1305.photobucket.com/user/perryrish/media/image_zpse0e79e72.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1305.photobucket.com/albums/s556/perryrish/image_zpse0e79e72.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo image_zpse0e79e72.jpg"/></a>
 
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 12:32 AM
  #20  
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Here is an idea of what my complete system is going to look like. The Vormax filtration system is from my old system. I am going to add another 3 way valve so when I purge I will bypass the filters and purge all the way through the pump so no oil ever sits in that pump.

<a href="http://s1305.photobucket.com/user/perryrish/media/image_zps001f288c.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1305.photobucket.com/albums/s556/perryrish/image_zps001f288c.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo image_zps001f288c.jpg"/></a>
 
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 12:36 AM
  #21  
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These are the cheapest 12v valves they are aluminum.

I've found hydraforce valves pretty cheap from some hydraulic supplier in Salt Lake City, but if forget the name. Something like Hydraulic Services or Hydraulic Systems Inc.

Another alternative is to use WVO Designs selector valves. I've used hydroforce and WVO designs valves on four different WVO cars and all have lasted several tens of thousands of miles.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 12:55 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by genscripter
I've found hydraforce valves pretty cheap from some hydraulic supplier in Salt Lake City, but if forget the name. Something like Hydraulic Services or Hydraulic Systems Inc.

Another alternative is to use WVO Designs selector valves. I've used hydroforce and WVO designs valves on four different WVO cars and all have lasted several tens of thousands of miles.
This is the one you are prob talking about no prices on their web site

Hydraulic Controls Distributor-Stockton, California - Hydraulic Controls

I know it says California but hydraforce website said Salt Lake City.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 07:56 AM
  #23  
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74$?!

*VomiT*


And i was getting upset at the thought of 30-40$ valves lol...
 
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Old Jun 8, 2013 | 12:32 AM
  #24  
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74$?!

*VomiT*


And i was getting upset at the thought of 30-40$ valves lol...

What kind of valves are you running? I haven't heard of good quality aluminum valves for less than $60-70.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2013 | 08:38 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Christof13T
74$?!

*VomiT*


And i was getting upset at the thought of 30-40$ valves lol...
Stainless steel 12v valves $30-40 each do tell. Where?
 
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Old Jun 8, 2013 | 08:49 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Christof13T
Got my aluminum fuel tubing ordered!
30ft of 3/8 ought to do it eh?

New Speedway 3 8" OD Aluminum Fuel Line Tubing 30 Foot Roll | eBay

Also got the check valve for between tank feed and return loop T fitting.

I already have 2 12v selonoid valves laying around that i might use... but im doing my best to keep this as simple as possible.

The filter head that i put on when i went through the hutch mod was purchased with this conversion in mind. It has a built in heater, so i can start heating immediately with 12v... i still need to play with the circuit to see if i can fiddle with temp...

So... electric heat between tank and pump...
Planning TiH from pump to motor.
Return from motor will remain oem to the tank selector... from there... takes its normal path through the alt tank return line... but it does not go to the alt tank...
It T's in between the tank and pump just before the filter... so yes it goes through it again.

The idea is heat retention and switching simplicity...

Yes... there will be pictures. Lots of pictures...
I think I understand your system. You are running the VO through the same filter as the diesel, right? That is how I had my system set up before.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2013 | 09:28 AM
  #27  
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No. 2 different pumps... 2 different filters. The spin on for the vo side is heated by 12v element.
D2 side is a napa plastic inline.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2013 | 11:08 PM
  #28  
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duda diesel gots some good s.s. valves. The one im using for purging has lasted 1-1/2yrs and its plastic...style B 12v McMaster-Carr #7876K68
 
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Old Jul 17, 2013 | 07:19 AM
  #29  
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Being that my job situation has changed.. and being back in a machine shop...
The overall concept of the design is changing.

Im going ahead with the bowl delete/ fuel switching manifold.

Im about to lose 2 more injectors... so its just time for them to be replaced...
And i have noticed some hpop hiccups...
So those have to be addressed first...

But 2-3 paychecks from now i should be able to order some material.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2013 | 01:31 PM
  #30  
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What up Chris! Are you using 2-seperate fuel delivery systems or "tying" into existing d2 fuel lines, to feed heads? Seems a few of ur threads are going all over the place...keep us in the loop, buddy.
 
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