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Which coolant do I have????

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Old May 21, 2013 | 09:20 AM
  #1  
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Which coolant do I have????

My lower coolant hose developed a hole yesterday. I am going to replace the upper and lower and would like to flush and switch to ELS. But if i dont have to flush and turn my driveway into a waterpark i'd rather not. The problem is that I cant tell which coolant was run in the truck before. I know the smartest thing to do is go ahead and flush, but like i said above i'd rather not. In the degas bottle it is rusty and or muddy colored. Is there a way to test to determine if the truck had ELs coolant before?
 
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Old May 21, 2013 | 09:47 AM
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Well there are basically three coolants: ford green (standard neon green color), ford gold (which may be the rusty muddy color you describe), and ELC which is red.

Since you describe a rusty muddy color, there may be oil from oil cooler Orings in the degas bottle. I'd strongly recommend a flush. Especially if you haven't flushed it before. Also if it hasn't been maintained (test strips for SCAs) it could be very harmful to keep it in there.

I understand not wanting to deal with the flush. There's an easier flush procedure in my opinion, I've done it on many other vehicles in the past. First let the radiator drain into a bucket, then remove the thermostat and reinstall the hose. (Turn the heater on) Top off with clean water and run the engine for 2-3 minutes. Shut off, drain, fill, run, repeat. After about 10-15 drains, the bucket should have very clean water. Once you are satisfied that the old coolant is gone (or Atleast an extremely low concentration of it) you need to get 4 gallons of concentrate into the system. If you got atleast 4 gallons to drain out each time, you should be good to go. If not, you need to either remove the lower hose and hope more drains or remove one or both block plugs (the good news is its now clean water and not coolant). Reinstall the thermostat and new parts before adding new fluid.

Some may disagree with my procedure, but it's much easier than pulling the block plugs several times. It takes a little longer, but I believe it as just as good a flush as the other procedure, and not nearly as messy.
 
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Old May 21, 2013 | 12:03 PM
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I flushed mine the exact same way! My truck spending 13 years and 288k in the rust belt really pushed me away from looking at those block plugs! I used about 65 gallons of distilled water only (overkill I know) but I wanted to be sure it was all out. I'd say just change the coolant to an ELC and be done with it!
 
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Old May 21, 2013 | 04:12 PM
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if your engine's built date is pre-02/02/1999, you use the conventional coolant either precharged with SCA or you add it. post 02/02/1999, you can use ELC coolant. Erwin
 
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Old May 21, 2013 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffreyt
Well there are basically three coolants: ford green (standard neon green color), ford gold (which may be the rusty muddy color you describe), and ELC which is usually red.
Fixed.

Stewart
 
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Old May 21, 2013 | 05:58 PM
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Thanks
 
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 06:26 PM
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Well, I twisted off all the 1/4 drive and extensions I had. So I wont be pulling the block plugs. I did hook up the "T" in the heater hose and flushed the system a few times and then proceeded to break the radiator plug. Called it quits after that and put everything back together. Never was able to make much of a dent in flushing the greasy/rusty/muddy stuff out of the system.

Is there a product that would help "clean" the system?

Thanks for your help.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 07:07 PM
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Please read the next to the last line.

By, Mark Wildman

Field Service Representative
International Truck and Engine Corporation

The mid-summer heat is intense across the country – which means the
biggest concern for your diesel truck, van or SUV is your cooling
system. There are several options for coolants on the market today,
and not all of them are good for your engine. This article addresses
the differences between conventional and extended life coolants, why
your diesel engine’s well-being depends on proper coolant
maintenance, and how to maintain your Power Stroke® Diesel engine so
it can perform at its best all summer long.
Types of Coolant
There are three basic types of coolant: Ethylene Glycol (EG), or
conventional coolant, is typically green; Long Life, or Extended
Life, Ethylene Glycol is typically yellow; and Propylene Glycol (PG)
is typically red and sometimes referred to as “non-toxic” coolant.
The term non-toxic can be confusing – all coolants are toxic, and
should not be ingested. “Non-toxic” is associated with PG-based
coolant because the United States Food and Drug Administration has
classified Propylene Glycol as Generally Regarded As Safe (GRAS) in
its pure form. The coolant manufacturer adds toxic chemicals to the
PG base. Because of its toxicity, keep all coolants away from
children and pets and dispose of all waste coolant properly.
PG coolant is not recommended for Power Stroke Diesel engines.
Because of its chemical makeup, PG coolants can cause damage to
aluminum parts, gasket materials and certain kinds of hoses. It also
has a lower boiling point than EG coolant, usually 10 F to 15 F
lower. While it may not sound like much, in a modern cooling system
with a high output engine a few degrees may make all the difference
in the world. Coolants that are methyl alcohol or methoxy
proponol-based should also never be used.
Extended Life Coolant
Extended life coolants are available for newer model diesel engines
(2002 model year). Extended life coolants provide a longer service
interval under normal conditions, because they don’t require the
addition of supplemental coolant additives (SCA). These new coolants
use advanced organic acid technology, which depletes much more
slowly than traditional coolant additives, to protect the engine.
Ford Motor Company has determined that either conventional Ethylene
Glycol (green colored) or Extended Life Ethylene Glycol (yellow
colored) coolant, such as Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant,
will meet the needs of the cooling system and will perform well in
extreme conditions as long as the vehicle is operated correctly.
PG-coolants such as Motorcraft Specialty Orange are not recommended
for the Power Stroke Diesel engine.
Extended Life EG coolants used with the 2002 model year F-Series
pickups and Excursions will allow for intervals of 100,000 miles or
five years, which ever occurs first, and will not need SCAs if they
are maintained properly. All 2001 model year and prior Power Stroke
Diesel engines are not compatible with extended life coolant. These
models had the proper amount of SCA added at the engine plant before
they were shipped, but will need to be maintained as described in
the “cavitation protection” section of this article.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 08:05 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by bdostone
Well, I twisted off all the 1/4 drive and extensions I had. So I wont be pulling the block plugs.
I'm not understanding, what do you mean you "twisted off all the 1/4 drive and extensions," please explain.

Is there a product that would help "clean" the system?
Nothing that a proper flush with water won't do just as well, and even if you had a lot of scale and rust and needed the VC-9 cleaner, you'd still have to properly flush it all out with water.

Originally Posted by Poolguy601
Please read the next to the last line.
What's the point you're trying to convey?

Also, if you're interested, here's the complete text of that letter: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...l#post12748863

...and my responses to the person who posted it, below.

Stewart
 
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 10:45 PM
  #10  
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I broke all the 1/4 drive tools I had trying to loosen the engine block plugs. The engine block plugs are 1/4 square socket plugs.

Flushing with only water doesn't seem to clean the red greasy mud that has coated the inside of the degas bottle and I'm assuming everything else. Is VC-9 recommended?
Thanks again guys.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 08:01 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by bdostone
I broke all the 1/4 drive tools I had trying to loosen the engine block plugs. The engine block plugs are 1/4 square socket plugs.

Flushing with only water doesn't seem to clean the red greasy mud that has coated the inside of the degas bottle and I'm assuming everything else. Is VC-9 recommended?
Thanks again guys.
I've heard of guys using a few different things. Some run a little dish powder I think (or maybe it was laundry powder). You'll want something that can cut the grease without foaming up IMO. I've heard of some running simple green, which is what I would use if I had to. Again, like Stewart said, lots and lots of water is best.

Not sure what VC-9 is. Stewart will have to take that one. I'm sure there are some commercially available coolant system cleaners, but I've never used any.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 09:16 AM
  #12  
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When I installed ELC to my 2000 ex I never touched my block plugs. I just kept filling with distilled water, and pulling the Lower rad hose. I did this about 15 times and used almost 65 gallons of distilled water. It can be done that way just time consuming.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 11:00 AM
  #13  
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Stewart, I have a 2000 and switched to zerex ELC , was that the right thing to do ?
 
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 11:05 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by r-kid
Stewart, I have a 2000 and switched to zerex ELC , was that the right thing to do ?
Now I am also wondering if I did the right thing
 
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 11:14 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by r-kid
Stewart, I have a 2000 and switched to zerex ELC , was that the right thing to do ?
Originally Posted by Kdr358
Now I am also wondering if I did the right thing
Here's what I posted before regarding that letter (found in the link above):

That article above does not address an Extended Life carboxylate-based coolant, aka OAT ELC.

It addresses a traditional "green" coolant meeting ASTM D4985 that needs to have SCA's added to it, and it addresses the hybrid-OAT Ford "gold" (Zerex G-05) long life coolant Ford started putting in their 2002 MY trucks. It does NOT address the OAT ELC like Chevron Delo, Fleetrite, Rotella, or any other ELC meeting the CAT EC-1 spec.

The "Propylene Glycol (PG) is typically red and sometimes referred to as 'non-toxic' coolant" that the article references is NOT the Heavy Duty OAT ELC meeting CAT EC-1 spec that we use in our trucks.

The above article just reiterates the same stance Ford has had since they started using the H-OAT coolant. Nowhere does it say not to use a heavy duty ELC in pre-2002 rigs in that article.

That letter basically mirrors Ford's stance regarding Ford "gold" (H-OAT) coolant, and by non-direct statement, heavy duty OAT Extended Life Coolant.

As stated in the "Gooch" thread I put together for FTE (a compilation of info provided by Gooch directly, as well as info I've scoured off the internet), Late '99 rigs and newer are safe to run a heavy duty Organic Acid Technology Extended Life Coolant meeting CAT EC-1 specifications.

Stewart
 

Last edited by Stewart_H; Jun 7, 2013 at 11:19 AM.
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