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Hello, I have been running around like a chicken with his head cutoff reading all the posts on building a streetable Cleveland. I picked up a complete non running 1970 351C 2V out of a 70 Ranchero GT500 along with the rearend which is stock @ 3:1. I tore the engine down and the bore is 40 over, 10/10 rods and mains it is a 2 bolt block, the cylinders should clean up with a quick hone and I do not plan on boring to 60 over. I will just find another block if that is the case. I plan on running an AOD or AODE. I want to know the best way to go about building this engine. I was looking at getting the Aussie 2v cast heads doing some mild polishing and going from there. I don't have thousands of dollars and want to stay around 3k. I have a friend that I used to work for that will be doing my machine work. I will probably build it myself. I would like to have an engine that is able to use pump gas and stout enuff to have some fun with. This truck wont be a daily driver but I do not intend it to be a trailer queen. Please be mindful that I don't want to spend 1500 on a set of aluminum heads. any help will be appreciated. Thanks
you will certainly have fun with that and being a 351, not a 351m-400, there is a lot more selection of pistons and manifolds you can pick from. Check out T Meyers website as he has a really good mod for the cam bearings and oil galleries (cheap) that mitigate at least partly the percieved historical issues with the clevo's oiling.
carby around the 600'ish range, not to big a cam (how street do you want it and whats it going in?).
Oil pumps are a real good argument starter, but like politics your preference over HP vs. Hi vol vs. standard is yours.
edelbrock air gap (not rpm) is getting good press over here in OZ with out going to the funnelweb type intakes.
Good roller rockers, and maybe even a roller cam, although the latter will start to blow your budget.
What sort of fuel do you expect to run as that will obviously determin the comp you can get away with?
eagle and scat here in OZ do good deals on rebuild and stroker kits-383 seems to be a popular compromise at not too bad a price.
Thanks for the reply, a lot of questions that I need to answer. I want to run at atleast a mid grade pump fuel. Do you know anything about the Aussie heads? I'm having a hard time finding them. I went to the website to order them but all the links are dead. Let me know and thanks again
yup, heaps over here. Tim Meyer worth a look, I believe that he was supplying them also. Starts getting close to alloy heads once you start rebuilding them so you may have to bite the bullet on that one. had a set done for me over here with (I believe) 4v boss valves, 5 years ago for 1300 aussie with full gasket kit
Right well I have a friend with a machine shop, hell I used to work for him so if I had the heads I would go and machine them myself. Same with the block. I seen them on the Aussie site for 385 a pair, is that still a real price?
See if you can get street machine (aussie mag) online-a lot of 351 rebuild in there. More about the car with the picking list as a buy note though, but usually discuss the motor a little (sometimes a lot). A helluva lot of 351's overe here-they would be the most iconic Ford motor in Australia as they didnt fit a big block to anything locally, so it was as big as it got.
Edit-they had the 400 in the galaxie like mine and the 460's weere in the F trucks, but 351 as big as they RACED!! Got rid of the clevo altogether (302 and 351) in the early/mid 80's until they started fitting the 5.0 windsor later in the 90's.
Just curious, why would you want to bolt a pair of high compression closed chamber heads on a motor you want to be gas pump friendly ? With those heads and zero decked flat tops the compression is going to be right up there. Sounds like you need a plan, a comp ratio to shoot for. Believe me you are not going to notice the difference from 9:1 to 10+:1 on the street, other than the pinging you are going to hear using the cheep gas. You don't want to lock yourself into high dollar gas if you want to drive it much. For a street motor I'd be looking to be around 9:1. I'd just use the stock heads, cc them and try figuring the ratio with flat tops zero decked. People spend so much money raising the ratio, then so much time trying to get it to run on the crap gas. You don't want to end up with a pig of a motor you can't put any timing in and have to dump gallons of the crap gas through it trying in vain to just get it to move out of it's own way.
I bought 9.5:1 piston from tim Meyer. My block was deck just for clean up and my heads too. I mesure the zero deck piston above the block at 0.007. I call tim and said to not worry when Its more than 0.010 to 0.013. After that could have detonation problem. Before i call tim i when to engine shop and they charge 100 $ to shave my pistons. But this was not required.