Door Panel Removal
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Door Panel Removal
Moved to Van Forums: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l-removal.html
My '03 E250 had developed a leaking washer solution reservoir evident only after filling it to a certain level, any amount above the leak running out onto the ground. Even though mine still held some washer solution and pumped adequately stopping the leak was the goal. Not being able to completely fill it up is an inconvenience.
This is what caused the leak, filler tube connection to the reservoir:
My speculation is rather severe rusting away of the right side inner fender structure allowed the washer fluid's weight and normal driving to pull it downward:
The washer reservoir is located under the battery so it needs to be removed first, the battery tray next. There are various type battery hold down clamps, mine was the lower type. Battery tray removal should be pretty much the same from model year '92 to at least 2008, perhaps beyond too. Do note the bolts may be seize or rusted in place so drilling and re-tapping those holes might be necessary.
Reservoir as installed under the battery tray:
Remove the filler neck where it attaches to the cowl panel:
Easiest access to left side bolt:
At this point there would a right side nut to remove but the inner fender rust damage eliminated this step for me.
The reservoir lifts up following the inner fender's slope which moves it backward at the same time. Right side mounting tab cannot easily clear the harness wiring:
I removed and separated this connector, laying its ends out of the way along with the reservoir pump connection:
Side-by-side view of new and old reservoirs, showing a few improvements I think. The new style hose is not only shorter overall but is secured and kept flush to the reservoir body; older style used longer hose, securing clips mounted along its length.
Re-connect the pump connector, a bit of dielectric grease can't hurt:
Re-install new reservoir, notice the highlighted area again. Since the wiring harnesses are moved aside it almost falls right into place
From here I wanted to better secure the reservoir so this didn't happen again. I cobbled a solution of sorts together using T-shaped mending plates typically used around the home, a few over-sized fender washers, U nut and 1/4-20 bolt:
It ain't pretty but it works----so far!
Original right-side mounting tab and stud, rusted away:
Just to be safe a cable tie was used:
After re-installing the battery tray and battery filled the leak-free reservoir all the way to the top --dry as a bone. I do notice the new pump and possibly its shorter hose run seems to squirt a better pattern, more completely covering the windshield. It wasn't horrible before, just better now.
Part numbers used or applicable, all Ford OEM:
Reservoir 8C2Z-17618-A
Battery Tray 3C2Z-10732-AA
^^ Bolts N606688-S2
Hold Down 6C2Z-10756-A
Feel free to ask any questions, add your own suggestions or comment---anything that helps the next guy!
My '03 E250 had developed a leaking washer solution reservoir evident only after filling it to a certain level, any amount above the leak running out onto the ground. Even though mine still held some washer solution and pumped adequately stopping the leak was the goal. Not being able to completely fill it up is an inconvenience.
This is what caused the leak, filler tube connection to the reservoir:
My speculation is rather severe rusting away of the right side inner fender structure allowed the washer fluid's weight and normal driving to pull it downward:
The washer reservoir is located under the battery so it needs to be removed first, the battery tray next. There are various type battery hold down clamps, mine was the lower type. Battery tray removal should be pretty much the same from model year '92 to at least 2008, perhaps beyond too. Do note the bolts may be seize or rusted in place so drilling and re-tapping those holes might be necessary.
Reservoir as installed under the battery tray:
Remove the filler neck where it attaches to the cowl panel:
Easiest access to left side bolt:
At this point there would a right side nut to remove but the inner fender rust damage eliminated this step for me.
The reservoir lifts up following the inner fender's slope which moves it backward at the same time. Right side mounting tab cannot easily clear the harness wiring:
I removed and separated this connector, laying its ends out of the way along with the reservoir pump connection:
Side-by-side view of new and old reservoirs, showing a few improvements I think. The new style hose is not only shorter overall but is secured and kept flush to the reservoir body; older style used longer hose, securing clips mounted along its length.
Re-connect the pump connector, a bit of dielectric grease can't hurt:
Re-install new reservoir, notice the highlighted area again. Since the wiring harnesses are moved aside it almost falls right into place
From here I wanted to better secure the reservoir so this didn't happen again. I cobbled a solution of sorts together using T-shaped mending plates typically used around the home, a few over-sized fender washers, U nut and 1/4-20 bolt:
It ain't pretty but it works----so far!
Original right-side mounting tab and stud, rusted away:
Just to be safe a cable tie was used:
After re-installing the battery tray and battery filled the leak-free reservoir all the way to the top --dry as a bone. I do notice the new pump and possibly its shorter hose run seems to squirt a better pattern, more completely covering the windshield. It wasn't horrible before, just better now.
Part numbers used or applicable, all Ford OEM:
Reservoir 8C2Z-17618-A
Battery Tray 3C2Z-10732-AA
^^ Bolts N606688-S2
Hold Down 6C2Z-10756-A
Feel free to ask any questions, add your own suggestions or comment---anything that helps the next guy!
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