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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Clutch Problem

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Old Jun 8, 2003 | 08:16 PM
  #16  
Stingray42's Avatar
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From: C eh? N eh? D eh?
Clutch Problem

inch from top of travel or floor?

Thanks
Andrew
 
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Old Jun 8, 2003 | 09:05 PM
  #17  
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From: Forest Hill
Clutch Problem

My 86 F-250 4x4's clutch has approx 1-1.5" free travel( from the top of floor pressing down) before it starts to disengage the clutch, and it releases approx 2" off of the floor. Not sure how normal that is but clutch works fine and will turn over my 33's with no problem.
 

Last edited by Aerodude; Jun 8, 2003 at 09:19 PM.
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Old Jun 8, 2003 | 09:15 PM
  #18  
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Clutch Problem

I have a different problem. I just installed a new clutch but when it is running its very hard to shift into gear and when I try to move it it stalls out.

1985 F-150 302 F/I
 
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Old Jun 8, 2003 | 09:19 PM
  #19  
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From: Forest Hill
Clutch Problem

Originally posted by gotu
I have a different problem. I just installed a new clutch but when it is running its very hard to shift into gear and when I try to move it it stalls out.

1985 F-150 302 F/I
Is the clutch M/C full?
 
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Old Jun 8, 2003 | 09:22 PM
  #20  
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Clutch Problem

It was almost empty so we filled it up after we put the clutch on.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2003 | 09:27 PM
  #21  
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From: Forest Hill
Clutch Problem

Originally posted by gotu
It was almost empty so we filled it up after we put the clutch on.
It may need to be bled. I assume you have pumped the pedal several times after filling. Try bleeding it
 
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Old Jun 8, 2003 | 09:29 PM
  #22  
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Clutch Problem

I pumped the pedal many times that is how I got it to get into gear while running and how do i bleed it??
 
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Old Jun 8, 2003 | 09:36 PM
  #23  
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From: Forest Hill
Clutch Problem

Should have a bleeder screw on the slave cylinder(at the bell housing). open it and let it gravity bleed first. If that doesn't work then try pressure bleeding, open the screw and have someone push the clutch pedal down, once down close the screw, check for any air that comes out when screw is open, when none is present you are done. It's like bleeding brakes. Don;t forget to keep a close eye on the fluid level while doing this, the M/C doesn't hold much to start with
 
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Old Jun 8, 2003 | 09:38 PM
  #24  
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Clutch Problem

Thanks I will try to find that bleeder screw tomorrow and I'll let ya know how things went.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2003 | 02:06 AM
  #25  
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Txquadhunter24
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Clutch Problem

My 86 F150 Catches about 2 to 3" off the floor. It did that with the old Cluth and does with the new. This is the 2nd Clutch I've put in the truck. The only slipping found is by the 31's on the rear
 
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Old Jun 9, 2003 | 09:08 AM
  #26  
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From: Memphis, TN
Clutch Problem

George
Are you serious?

Andrew
There are plenty of photo hosting sites on the web, but WebPhotos is one of the free ones.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2003 | 02:51 PM
  #27  
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Clutch Problem

Well I just went out and checked the slave cylinder and I didn't find any bleeder nut or anything like that.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2003 | 04:49 PM
  #28  
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From: C eh? N eh? D eh?
Clutch Problem

Steve
Can I email the pics to u?
 
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Old Jun 10, 2003 | 12:02 AM
  #29  
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From: Geelong, Victoria, Australia
Clutch Problem

Steve,
Yes I'm serious.
I've did it years ago with the mechanical brakes on a '48 Jaguar (clevis pins & yokes) & recently on a VW carburetor (the linkages on the accelerator pump were only giving me 50% of the volume it needed).
I don't know why I do it- it may be the $$$$ I save or I may be addicted to oxy/acetylene fumes.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2003 | 04:58 PM
  #30  
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From: Memphis, TN
Clutch Problem

Originally posted by Stingray42
Can I email the pics to u?
Uh... No. Besides; in the time it would take you to ul them to send to me, you could ul them directly to webphotos.

George
Actually, I wasn't asking about the brazing procedure - I really meant: why stay with the mechanical linkage? I hate it. It wears too fast, and is too expensive/time-consuming to fix/replace/adjust/maintain. The hydraulic system is MUCH better in every way.
 
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