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I just bought a 1966 F250 4x4. The heater doesn't close so heat is blowing all the time. How difficult are the heaters to rebuild? Any where to send off to have them rebuilt? Where do you recommend I buy the parts if I rebuild myself? Thanks.
I just bought a 1966 F250 4x4. The heater doesn't close so heat is blowing all the time. How difficult are the heaters to rebuild? Anywhere to send off to have them rebuilt? Where do you recommend I buy the parts if I rebuild myself? Thanks.
There really nothing to the heater, so you can fix it yourself, but...
Which heater do you have? Are there two cables mounted to a bracket under the dash to the right of the steering column?
Ive actually been working on mine as time alows. Pretty easy to get apart. Some drilling of the old rivets is a bit of a pain in the butt.
You can buy new motors, squirrel cage, heater cores, foam pads, cables, and the resistor. Chances are your squirrel cage is OK. Chances are you need to pull it apart, check to see if you have any critters living in there and or clean out their nest. You can clean the heater core with acid or replace it for like $35.
I have a bunch of pics, just have not uploaded them to my photo album yet. Mine needs a little bit of fiberglass work as well. My motor is OK. Core was cleaned with a mild solution of acid. Need a new resistor, and foam pads for the core.
Bad heater hose valve in the engine comartment. Need to answer ND's question and the guys will go from there. Its NOT that hard to fix...
As masked rider says.... remember the heat is shut off by completely shutting off water supply to the heater, the temperature valve in the heater hose line has to be adusted to allow full shut off and it should be in the line from the water pump to the heater. Those darn valves are expensive for what they are, they can usually be cleaned by soaking in CLR, rinsed then soaked in a rust remover or use electrolosis to remove the rust and crud. Negative battery post to part, positive to a piece of iron, in a bath of 1/4 cup baking or laundry soda in 1 gallon of water.
As masked rider says.... remember the heat is shut off by completely shutting off water supply to the heater, the temperature valve in the heater hose line has to be adusted to allow full shut off and it should be in the line from the water pump to the heater.
1965/66: Two types of heater valves, both are spliced into the inlet to heater core heater hose.
The valve used with the Economy fresh air heater is manually operated (C5TZ-18495-A).
Deluxe fresh air heater has two cables mounted under the dash to a bracket. One of these cables attaches to the heater water valve (C3UZ-18495-A), there's no adjustment.
This valve is notorious for getting stuck closed/open or partially. The good news is, it's available from Ford, the manual valve is obsolete, but a few are available NOS
C3UZ-18495-A .. Cable Controlled Heater Water Valve (Motorcraft YG-133).
I just bought a 1966 F250 4x4. The heater doesn't close so heat is blowing all the time. How difficult are the heaters to rebuild? Any where to send off to have them rebuilt? Where do you recommend I buy the parts if I rebuild myself? Thanks.
Check my build of a 65 F100 4wd in the projects forum. You will see how your heater box comes apart. There are two different heater boxes used. There is the custom air or the standard. The custom air has a bracket that is bolted to the bottom of the dash and has two cables one goes to a control valve under the hood in one of the heater hoses and controls the amount of engine coolant that flows thru the heater core. If the standard is what you have you may or may not have a manual valve in the intake manifold that will control the flow to the heater core. The manual valve under the hood tend to rust up and become inop so maybe get left open so there is always a continuous flow of coolant to the heater core. The baffles in the heater box are controled by reaching down and moving a lever to heat or defrost to control where the air is directed. With the custom air it is done with cables on that bracket I talked about or with the heater control ****. Good luck with fixing your problem it doesnt sound to hard to fix. Post up some pix of your newfound jewel.
"adjusting the valve" means installing it properly. Install valve, shut by hand, push temperature cable **** all the way in, attach end of cable to valve such that it is fully shut, test for ease of opening and shutting, if you pinch the attachment clamp too tight, it will not open and close easily.
Just make sure you install the shut-off valve on the correct hose leading into the heater core. Some will say it doesn't matter BUT it does. Two heater hoses come off the engine. One is a pump hose and the other is a return hose. Make sure you install the valve on the pump hose and in the proper location so the cable attaches correctly... It you install the heater valve on the return hose, you WILL still get hot water that radiates through the heater core and will still have warm or even hot air coming off the heater core. Maybe not a lot but than again it depends on what state you live in. If your in a hot state,,, ANYTHING will add to temps inside the cab... ;O(
If you still do not understand what I'm trying to say,,, PLEASE feel free to ask. If I don't get back to you, I'm sure someone here will. There are plenty of guys here that now exactly what I'm saying.... Good Luck
Thanks for the great advice. I have the "two" pull **** unit. Trying to post pictures from my MAC of the truck and can't get it figured out yet. Will get the kids to help soon to get images up.