Hard question to answer because we don't know how many miles are on the truck or what shape it's in. If I was doing it I would ask myself a few questions (yes sometimes I talk to myself)

What is the high end cost to get the heads redone, including all the gaskets and I think head bolts but not sure about that, also all new exhaust studs.

Did the piston come in contact with the washer and if it did was it on the outside lip of the piston. If it was only on the center of the piston it probably didn't damage it. If it has marks on the outside close to the cylinder wall then it's a different story because you can't see what may have happened to the piston ring area, if it's on the edge there is only one way to tell and that's involves removing the piston.

How long are you planning on keeping the truck.

Do you really like the truck.

What's the cost of a crate motor compared to having the heads redone.

I would only use a used motor if I was going to sell the truck, but that's just my opinion.

If it was me and the cost to redo the heads was half the cost of a crate motor and I was going to keep the truck it would get the new motor.

It's a decision only you can make.

The last time I had to make a decision like that was when I overheated my work truck that had 117K miles, I replaced the idler pulley and belt used some stop leak to seal up whatever was leaking (I think I cracked a head) and bought a new truck. I looked at a crate motor from Ford but the rest of the truck was getting to the point where it was needing to much work and I wanted a new truck with more power. That's when I got my first V10

Where did that washer come from? Last time I had that happen I dropped a small nut when I was working on my carburetor it banged around for a couple of seconds and went out the exhaust with no harm done. I did a valve job on it about 90K miles later and I could see where the nut and the piston had a party.

Denny

 

I took a break from the truck, now I am refreshed and back. I inspected the cylinders, i do not see or feel any wear or scars from bad rings. If the rings were bad I presume wear or scars would be evident but I am no expert. My concern is the lack of compression I got in a dry test. A wet test brought it up to 60 idling. I found out after that a compression test is done without spark.

A crate motor is around $3200 that I have seen. That's a bit more than I would like to spend.

 

With that washer in the valve you won't get any compression, if you can't see any piston damage I would just do the valve job.

Denny

 

In that pic with the washer under the valve, is it only half of the washer ?, like the washers broke in half ?.

That washer dont look like a regular every day washer, has a machined look to it, so think where a washer like that would be used on the engine so you'll have an idea where it came from.
I've never had my hands on or in one of those V10s, so dont know where it could have came from & can only guess.
Maybe it is a rod bolt washer, like one was broken while the engine being put together & magic like found its way into the intake.
Have you at any time been around the intake working, had it open that a piece of washer could find its way in.
Neil

 

If it was from me it had to happen when I changed the plugs but I think it came from somewhere else

 

Slingnsteel: one clarification please -- is the cylinder with low compression the same with the broken washer wedged in the valve? I would ***-U-ME this is the case, but...

 

Not the same cyl

 

??, Maybe the other part of that broken washer, found its way to the low compression cylinder creating that problem.

Need more pics & do you have both heads off.
Neil

 

That's amazing. So was the compression on the broken washer cyl normal (within spec)?

 

I didn't check them all

 

I just rebuilt the V10 in my 2000 Excursion. Not the easiest job, had to do a ton of research. I was surprised that at 211,000 miles it did not hardly have a ridge on the cylinders and you could still see some of the crosshatch. Part of the expense is the rod bolts, main side bolts and head bolts are to be replaced. If the cylinders look good on yours, and the pistons also are not hurt, I would do a valve job on it and put it back together.

 

You have to find where that debris (the washer) came from and determine what damage it did. Also what caused the debris to get there. After you fix where it came from and you remove the debris, you can decide if machining the heads will restore them. If not consider replacements. Inspect the cylinder wall & rings for debris & scoring extra well or you might be back. Check your oil to see if anything made it all the way.

Love to hear where that debris came from.

 

Could the washer been something you droped down there and just got wedge there after you removed the timing chain?

 

Heyas
I am back with good news. Not due to a lack of effort I have given up on the ole truck and moved onto an older truck hehe. Anyways Ty all that had input with my continuous issues. I figured on the cheep side it would have been $2000 to get it running again and around 3200 for a rebuild. I was not able to find a low mileage take out so I measured my options and got into a 97 F250 crew cab w/ a powerstroke, pw, auto locks, AC and utility box. I love the utility box for my tools and the back seat for hunting trips (in MA rear window gun rack is illegal). My 99 had no pw, auto locks or AC so i am in heaven.

I am listing a set of Gibson SS headers less, EGR valve from ford dealer and a steering box with new hoses, all are less than a year old. If anyone has any interest email me at stevotito@gmail.com

SM