Howdy from Montana!(first timer)
I'm 2hr west of Whitefish, 45min south of Eureka on hwy 37
Montana_Highboy is right, as usual, about the 360......not one of the FE family's shining stars, to be sure. As he said, the typical fix is to make it a 390, which is always a reliable workhorse. Then again, depending on how nuts you want to go, you can always make an FE monster if you want too. There's another guy on this site that put a 428 in his truck, which I thought was cool all day long. Then again, you could make your 360 into a 410, which is a Mercury based FE, and just confuse the heck outta everyone. I also believe there was a 406 combination as well that came with tri-power, but that was a pretty rare monkey. Then again, you can just empty your wallet and built a completely trick 427, but those original cross bolted blocks are getting to be as hard to find as the true Cobra Jet blocks with the triple webbing on the low end. The upside is that there are lots of things you can do with an FE motor nowadays, thanks to people like Barry Robotnik at Survival Motorsports, or the folks at any of the FE specific performance shops like FE Specialties, Robert Pond Racing, Genesis427.......even outfits like Edelbrock produce parts for the FE plant nowadays, so your options are pretty expansive.
Myself, I went with the 335 class engine for Buford (400 stroked to 434), but for my next project I've been doing a lot of research on FE motors as I'll be building some sort of 428 Cobra Jet mutant (roller retrofit, possible 427 bits like try-y headers maybe, etc.). I've got some of the hard to find parts like the C8OE-6090-N, 428 Cobra Jet heads, an original single quad medium rise intake, original 428 crank......plus I have a 390 truck block to work with as well as another complete 410 to borrow from when the time calls for it.
There is no shortage of information out there about the FE engine.......granted, to know the minute details about casting numbers and casting dates takes a special kind of motorhead nerdiness that people like NumberDummy and a few others are lucky enough to possess, but for those of us that are not as sharp as they are, there are plenty of places to find the parts and the answers that you need. Besides, NumberDummy has built a reputation as being that sort of Ford supernerd, because he's a serious wealth of information, and he's been really helpful to a LOT of folks on this site (myself included). Also, this site has an engine specific forum, so just as I got a lot of information on the 335 class engine, you can go to the FE forum here, and find some of your answers there as well. Just remember......the search function on this site is your friend......trust me on that.
Good luck with the project, and again, welcome aboard!
I live in a town (Libby) of only 2,800 pop. and there's about 35-40 dents I see on a regular basis, can't say that about the 70's era Chevys.

Good info from Behemoth.
As for the junkyard that's "Pioneer auto wrecking" he has two yards, both on Hwy 2, one atop 'Whiskey hill' where he keeps all his pre '80 stuff (a lot of nice old iron up there), and another yard as you approach town, where he keeps all his '80 and up stuff.
If you're ever out this way again give me a heads up and i'll give you the nickel tour.

Montana Log Homes | Amish Log Builders | Meadowlark Log Homes
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Howdy from the flat lands, Montanaboy,
I've been lurking around FTE for some time now, getting all kinds of info and ideas. The 3G alternator swap and Lincoln Mark VIII fan upgrade finally got me enthusiastic enough to pay my dues and start piping up. I live about 30 minutes west of LMC Truck, and have dropped in there several times now. I was pleasantly surprised when the rebuilt carburetor they brought out was in a sealed box from the Holly factory, I don't think it was new, but it sure was purdy. A 2150, the one with the metering rods, quite an improvement over the 2100 that I had soaked and bought a kit for... Before discovering a cracked mounting foot. Unboxed it, Bolted it on, and it was SWEET! It was kind of pricey, though.
I just picked up an instrument cluster gauge plate, mine was the original crumbling composite and wouldn't hold the light holders. I'm glad I was able to take my old one in. I had asked them to bring out the one for gauges and warning lights, turns out I needed the one for gauges. The guys at the city counter can look at a picture of the part on their computer, something we don't get to do at home. I suppose they could talk you through a complicated part order over the phone. The door jamb switches looked like original, and the bushing kit for my power cylinder was Ford bagged NOS.
I have read that there have complaints with LMC's weld in floor pans. I plan on getting some so this got my attention. While I was there several fellows picked up sheet metal parts, one guy was from a local auto body shop. The sheet metal parts I saw looked good to me. I think the over sized part trucking charge would be prohibitive, especially if you have relatively rust free stuff in your salvage yards up there. A lot of salt gets spread on a snowy day in these parts.
So, from what I have seen, LMC Truck stuff is good quality.
Welcome, and I hope I have been helpful. If there is any negatory information on LMC out there, please chime in now!
Now, LMC does produce some stuff that's perfectly fine, but you need to be weary of quality of the part. Some of their stuff is really cheap quality, while other items seem pretty acceptable.....it's a mixed bag. While it's typically more money, I'd go to Dennis Carpenter before I'd use LMC, but that's just my opinion.
For specialty stuff just hit up the sticky at the top of the page, numerous vendors from which to choose from.
Thanks for the responses, and the suggestions and knowledge is always appreciated. The interwebs can be cool from time to time if you use it in a positive way. Oh yeah, highboy, there's still a bunch of dentsides that cruise around. Most of the time it seems that folks just grab them to do the bare minimum to just have to rod the crap out of them in the mountains and mud. Which is cool if that's your thing. Not really my deal with this particular rig. Another thing I see is a lot of rust, which is why I always don't mind stopping anywhere to look at these trucks and chat about them just to see where they're from and try and get some backstory on them. I love old truck stories.
Some were replaced under warranty, some were replaced by people at their own expense, but some have never been replaced.
E1PZ-10848-A .. Hard Plastic Cluster Back-Use with Oil/Amp Gauges: 1981/91 Econoline, retrofit 1975/79 F100/350, 1975/80 Econoline, 1978/79 Bronco.
E1PZ-10848-B .. Hard Plastic Cluster Back-Use with Oil/Amp Warning (Idiot) Lights: 1981/86 Econoline, retrofit-same applications as above.
LMC is a middle-man operation, reproduces next to no parts of their own, uses the J. Paul Getty method of making money.
When you send in your order, they use your money to buy the parts elsewhere from other repro parts sellers, auto parts stores and in some cases, Ford Dealers.
The cluster back you bought from LMC...they bought it from Carpenter. Several years ago, Carpenter bought all of FoMoCo's remaining inventory, currently has over 500 of E1PZ-A, 50 of E1PZ-B
Before buying anything from LMC, check the parts price with other repro parts sellers.
Since LMC buys most of the repro parts from others, they'll mark up the prices and guess who pays the additional shipping charges that LMC incurs by buying parts elsewhere?
Last edited by NumberDummy; May 13, 2013 at 05:17 AM.





