Dana 44HD breaks dragging
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Well, I could tell it was dragging so I decided if I just drove it a while and braked hard with it the caliper would slide on the caliper pins and loosen up. The problem was I had the pads in backwards, and the caliper was stuck, and I checked it once and the hub was cool so I kept driving it around, nothing over 25 mph and it stopped great even with the one side braking stronger than the other, and when I finally pulled back onto the driveway smoke was coming out from behind the wheel.
Now when I turn the hub by hand the rotor looks like it's warped.
Now when I turn the hub by hand the rotor looks like it's warped.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Laramie, WY
I have reused grease seals before. You just have to get it out without hurting it. If you don't remove the bearing in the hub and just take the hub off the spindle its really no big deal to re use the seal. To get the seal out, I use the 4x4 socket. I place the socket inside the hub, against the seal, and knock it out as square as I can with a hammer. Works pretty well.
To change out rotors from a hub, just smack out the studs with a 3lb sledge hammer. They're not in there as hard as you might think. To reassemble a press is nice, that's how I did mine, but in a pinch I'm sure you could pound the studs back in too. A shop probably won't charge much for that simple procedure, just pay with cash and don't demand it be done "now".
You won't have any issue if you run two slightly different rotors. I would only change the one that is warped and not think twice about it. The calipers are self adjusting, and will take care of any difference in thickness of the rotors.
I have had smoking rotor/pads coming down Loveland Pass, and never had them warp, but if you can see a distortion its probably pretty warped.
To change out rotors from a hub, just smack out the studs with a 3lb sledge hammer. They're not in there as hard as you might think. To reassemble a press is nice, that's how I did mine, but in a pinch I'm sure you could pound the studs back in too. A shop probably won't charge much for that simple procedure, just pay with cash and don't demand it be done "now".
You won't have any issue if you run two slightly different rotors. I would only change the one that is warped and not think twice about it. The calipers are self adjusting, and will take care of any difference in thickness of the rotors.
I have had smoking rotor/pads coming down Loveland Pass, and never had them warp, but if you can see a distortion its probably pretty warped.
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Making progress, new calipers, semi-metalic pads, the non-warped rotor and hub, and everything else but the wheel are all put together on the drivers side. Turns smooth and looks great. I'm going to have the other rotor switched in the next day or two, I've bled more air out of the breaks but it's still not clenching, and it was getting late so I'll keep bleeding it tomorrow.
Can I start the engine and use the booster to help bleed the lines, or should I bleed it all the way out before starting the engine?
Can I start the engine and use the booster to help bleed the lines, or should I bleed it all the way out before starting the engine?
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still not having much luck, everything back together and the wheel spins great, no dragging, no play in anything, but I just can't seem to get the air out of the lines. I have a sneaking suspicion that the banjo bolt may not be sealing all the way still. There's a snow storm right now so I think I'll wait until the weather clears.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Laramie, WY
You can start the truck to use the booster, won't hurt anything.
I have always just cracked the bleeder valve when doing the first couple bleeds (when its mostly air), and then open it more when mostly liquid is eluting so I can see if its a steady stream or a bubble filled stream.
Are you closing the bleeder screw before letting the brake pedal return up? I'm somewhat at a loss as to why you're not getting the brakes to firm up. I've never run into a problem vehicle, maybe you have?
I have a tendency to work on cars late at night, when everyone is asleep, and as such have always had to come up with a way to bleed brakes solo. I use a long handled screw driver or a crow bar, and wedge it between the seat and brake pedal to apply pressure. Then I open the bleeder valve, let air/bubbly fluid out, close the valve. Walk back to driver door, remove crow bar, pump the brakes, replace crow bar. Go back and bleed air out again, closing the valve before letting the pressure off the pedal.
The only key is not letting the pedal rise while the bleeder is open, though I think you know that already.
I have always just cracked the bleeder valve when doing the first couple bleeds (when its mostly air), and then open it more when mostly liquid is eluting so I can see if its a steady stream or a bubble filled stream.
Are you closing the bleeder screw before letting the brake pedal return up? I'm somewhat at a loss as to why you're not getting the brakes to firm up. I've never run into a problem vehicle, maybe you have?
I have a tendency to work on cars late at night, when everyone is asleep, and as such have always had to come up with a way to bleed brakes solo. I use a long handled screw driver or a crow bar, and wedge it between the seat and brake pedal to apply pressure. Then I open the bleeder valve, let air/bubbly fluid out, close the valve. Walk back to driver door, remove crow bar, pump the brakes, replace crow bar. Go back and bleed air out again, closing the valve before letting the pressure off the pedal.
The only key is not letting the pedal rise while the bleeder is open, though I think you know that already.
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The little bleeder bottle I'm using supposedly has a a check valve in it, but I'm not convinced it's working. I'm just going to get a friend to help out so I can at least see what's going on in the wheel well.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Laramie, WY
I'd just toss that bleeder kit in the trash. Do it the way everyone has been bleeding brakes forever and I bet it will work fine for you.
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Vacuum pump is a good idea, in the interest of doing this right I've ordered one. I figure I'll use the pump, while a friend cycles the pedal and I twist the bleed screw. I can't imagine that'll leave any air left in the system.
Another thing I've noticed is that the threads around the bleeder don't seem to have much of a seal when it's open. If I put grease, or anti-seize, or something thick and sealing like that on the threads and around the base, will that get pulled in and mess anything up or is that an acceptable practice?
Another thing I've noticed is that the threads around the bleeder don't seem to have much of a seal when it's open. If I put grease, or anti-seize, or something thick and sealing like that on the threads and around the base, will that get pulled in and mess anything up or is that an acceptable practice?
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
You are defeating the purpose of a vacuum pump if you depress the pedal.
ONE or the OTHER
As soon as the master cylinder piston moves it covers the reservoir port.
Wrap some teflon tape on the threads.
Be sure to keep it high enough that it is not on the seal part (seat) of the bleeder nipple.
I bled brakes (by myself) for years just letting the open end of the piece of hose stay submerged in a bottle of brake fluid.
It certainly can't suck air back into the system that way.
ONE or the OTHER
As soon as the master cylinder piston moves it covers the reservoir port.
Wrap some teflon tape on the threads.
Be sure to keep it high enough that it is not on the seal part (seat) of the bleeder nipple.
I bled brakes (by myself) for years just letting the open end of the piece of hose stay submerged in a bottle of brake fluid.
It certainly can't suck air back into the system that way.
i ain't rite
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
99% of the time i bleed brakes by just opening the bleeder and waiting for fluid to come out because i am usually doing the work alone.
and when i do get a chance to get someone to step on the pedal after gravity bleeding. i very rarely get any air out of the system.
and when i do get a chance to get someone to step on the pedal after gravity bleeding. i very rarely get any air out of the system.
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Figured it out, I didn't realize the reservoir had two separate partitions. The front emptied out while I was trying to get the hose and banjo bolt sorted out. I thought there was an awful lot of fluid in the catch pan.
It was completely empty, I'd been glancing at it and it seemed to be full it wasn't. Put fluid in it, put that little bleeder bottle on. Five pumps and it had brakes. I bled quite a lot through.
Even with only this one side done the pedal has no play at all. Caliper doesn't drag, but when I push on that pedal (which feels like stepping on a brick of polyurethane) it stops with very little pressure. I haven't even started the engine up yet.
I'll do the other side tomorrow maybe, take it out for a drive.
Thanks again for all the help!
It was completely empty, I'd been glancing at it and it seemed to be full it wasn't. Put fluid in it, put that little bleeder bottle on. Five pumps and it had brakes. I bled quite a lot through.
Even with only this one side done the pedal has no play at all. Caliper doesn't drag, but when I push on that pedal (which feels like stepping on a brick of polyurethane) it stops with very little pressure. I haven't even started the engine up yet.
I'll do the other side tomorrow maybe, take it out for a drive.
Thanks again for all the help!
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Laramie, WY
Ah yep, didn't even think about that. Glad you caught it and that its working out now! Have you checked the rear wheel cylinders? They like to stick when they get old, so you end only applying one shoe and basically have awful rear brakes. As long as the brake line comes off without fuss, changing them out is an easy job.
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Passenger side went on in less than two hours. Put on some Warn lockouts too
Everything went smoothly except it seems like it's dragging a little. Not like the old drivers side caliper but wheels doesn't turn as freely as the other. I greased the pins and slide bores really well, I think maybe the caliper just needs to cycle a few times.
Brakes work fantastically well, very easy to lock both tires and slide. I don't think the rear is doing very much. Also I've got a rear anti-lock gauge lights that's been on since I got the truck.
What are the reasons that light would come on, and how do you diagnose problems with it?
Everything went smoothly except it seems like it's dragging a little. Not like the old drivers side caliper but wheels doesn't turn as freely as the other. I greased the pins and slide bores really well, I think maybe the caliper just needs to cycle a few times.
Brakes work fantastically well, very easy to lock both tires and slide. I don't think the rear is doing very much. Also I've got a rear anti-lock gauge lights that's been on since I got the truck.
What are the reasons that light would come on, and how do you diagnose problems with it?