Dana 44HD breaks dragging
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Nevermind I figured it out. I'm letting some liquid wrench sit on the flare and the threads to break down any surface rust before I put new hose on the fitting. I may use some steel wool on the neck of hose just before the flare too.
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I think I've figured it out, it's the remanufactuered calipers.
I put the new hose on, hooked it up to the other new caliper with fresh washers, and a new banjo bolt. No seal at all, just leaks and leaks.
Put the old caliper back on with it's old washer still pressed into it. No leak, with very little torque.
Took off the old calipers washer and the concentric grooves are all there, and in good shape.
The new calipers don't have any, they've been covered with some kind of coating the caliper was sealed with. I can't imagine any of these calipers ever working. I guess I'll have to take them back.
I put the new hose on, hooked it up to the other new caliper with fresh washers, and a new banjo bolt. No seal at all, just leaks and leaks.
Put the old caliper back on with it's old washer still pressed into it. No leak, with very little torque.
Took off the old calipers washer and the concentric grooves are all there, and in good shape.
The new calipers don't have any, they've been covered with some kind of coating the caliper was sealed with. I can't imagine any of these calipers ever working. I guess I'll have to take them back.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
Is it a coating, or did they just sandblast the spot faced surface?
Either way I don't assume the washer would seal against that kind of texture.
Sorry. That must be really frustrating.
Either way I don't assume the washer would seal against that kind of texture.
Sorry. That must be really frustrating.
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I've got a lot of respect for the people at Carquest, they took the old ones back and dug around through all of the reman calipers they had and found the ones with the shallowest washer holes, the best threads, and the roughest sealing serrations.
I put the drivers side caliper on and so far no leaks. I'm going to bleed them tomorrow and get it all back together. Hopefully the seal holds.
I put the drivers side caliper on and so far no leaks. I'm going to bleed them tomorrow and get it all back together. Hopefully the seal holds.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Central Wisconsin
That is really strange that somebody thought that surface was going to work. Apparently whoever was testing the calipers was sick that day.
I've always had really good luck at Carquest too. Anytime I've gotten something defective, they replace it with whatever top of the line item they can find because they don't want it to happen again. I've never gotten that kinda service at O'Reilly's or Napa in my area.
I've always had really good luck at Carquest too. Anytime I've gotten something defective, they replace it with whatever top of the line item they can find because they don't want it to happen again. I've never gotten that kinda service at O'Reilly's or Napa in my area.
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All of the seals still seem to be holding, I cleaned everything with brake cleaner and let it sit for a day, and it's dry at all connections, so I hooked up the brake bleeder bottle (the kind with the check valve) and got to work.
It took a long time to get the air out of the line. I've made sure that the reservoir never got down below the add line during any part of the process, but there was a lot of air in the line.
I eventually pumped it out (or it seems to have), because the fluid is clean and there are no more bubbles.
When I close the bleeder screw there doesn't seem to be any movement from the pistons when I press the pedal. the pedal isn't really soft but it still goes to the floor.
How do I proceed? Should I keep bleeding?
It took a long time to get the air out of the line. I've made sure that the reservoir never got down below the add line during any part of the process, but there was a lot of air in the line.
I eventually pumped it out (or it seems to have), because the fluid is clean and there are no more bubbles.
When I close the bleeder screw there doesn't seem to be any movement from the pistons when I press the pedal. the pedal isn't really soft but it still goes to the floor.
How do I proceed? Should I keep bleeding?
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
Yes, you need to keep bleeding.
If it goes to the floor now, it will likely fall to the floor with the engine running and the booster working.
Try tapping on the calipers and lines with a screwdriver handle.
This will help bubbles rise that might be clinging to the insides.
If it goes to the floor now, it will likely fall to the floor with the engine running and the booster working.
Try tapping on the calipers and lines with a screwdriver handle.
This will help bubbles rise that might be clinging to the insides.
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Actually with the engine running the brake pedal stays up, but it is softer, it did firm up quite a lot as the initial air got bled out. I just realized something though, this whole time I've been bleeding and caliper has been sitting on it's side on the leaf spring which means the bleed valve isn't the highest point on the caliper. I'll bet I've got air trapped behind the pistons.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
How can you bleed them without the caliper mounted on the rotor???
They are not meant to extend that far.
Perhaps with brand new pads the pistons won't pop out or allow the seals to leak fluid into the boots, I'm not sure...
They are not meant to extend that far.
Perhaps with brand new pads the pistons won't pop out or allow the seals to leak fluid into the boots, I'm not sure...
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Laramie, WY
Interesting. First time doing brakes? We all start somewhere, and the learning is fun. The reason the pedal goes to the floor is because there is nothing for the piston to clamp down on if you don't have the caliper over the rotor. I am surprised the pistons didn't pop out of the calipers actually.
Put the calipers on, as in fully mount them. Then bleed the brakes. The pedal should firm right up.
Put the calipers on, as in fully mount them. Then bleed the brakes. The pedal should firm right up.
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Yep, I've done quite a lot with engines and a little with transmissions but never anything axle related. A friend of mine was driving this truck as a work truck, and I noticed he was downshifting a lot and when I asked he said it had very little brakes, but was able to get by because the IDI and a 5-speed are pretty good for engine braking. Since it had no material on the fronts, and also was missing a lot of metal from the rotors, and also quite a lot off the pad plates I think it had just been braking on the rear drums. Probably for some time.
I didn't want him driving the truck, because it just wasn't safe so I offered to try and fix it. When I saw it was going to be expensive I went ahead and bought it off of him. I grew pretty attached to the IDI, and the ZF and even the TTB, which rides nicer than my DD which is a 2500HD GMC with the TB IFS. Gets a lot better mileage too.
It also needs a new t-case (leak), and joints, and pinion seals but overall it's a really solid truck, and the frame is in great shape for up here. I think it'll be a fun project.
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Another thing I've noticed is that when I ran it up and down the road with the new rotor, bearings, etc.. with the old caliper and it dragged, I think it may have warped the rotor slightly.
I have a spare set of rotors I bought before I decided to buy wheel hubs.
If I take the wheelhub/rotor assembly off do I have to replace the wheelhub seal (the one at the very back) every time? Or just when it's worn out.
And how much would most shops charge to press out the studs and swap the spare rotors onto the new wheelhubs. I'm guessing both sides need to be the same rotor and the spare ones are slightly thicker.
I have a spare set of rotors I bought before I decided to buy wheel hubs.
If I take the wheelhub/rotor assembly off do I have to replace the wheelhub seal (the one at the very back) every time? Or just when it's worn out.
And how much would most shops charge to press out the studs and swap the spare rotors onto the new wheelhubs. I'm guessing both sides need to be the same rotor and the spare ones are slightly thicker.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I doubt you warped the new rotor, what makes you think so?
How far did you drive it 'up and down the road'???
You can check with a dial indicator, or a shop with a brake lathe can check it for you.
If you need to get the bearing out you need to change the seal too.
Wipe some of that extra grease off the caliper mount.
It just needs a thin film.
You don't want it to get onto the friction surface.
Personally, I would just get the brakes mounted back on the truck (like I said in post #5) and bleed them with the nipple at the high point and then take it for a drive.
Try not to drag the brakes, make any panic stops right away.
The new pads and rotors need to settle into one another without glazing.
This is all $$$ you could be using to address some of the other issues.
Good luck and enjoy your new Ford truck.
How far did you drive it 'up and down the road'???
You can check with a dial indicator, or a shop with a brake lathe can check it for you.
If you need to get the bearing out you need to change the seal too.
Wipe some of that extra grease off the caliper mount.
It just needs a thin film.
You don't want it to get onto the friction surface.
Personally, I would just get the brakes mounted back on the truck (like I said in post #5) and bleed them with the nipple at the high point and then take it for a drive.
Try not to drag the brakes, make any panic stops right away.
The new pads and rotors need to settle into one another without glazing.
This is all $$$ you could be using to address some of the other issues.
Good luck and enjoy your new Ford truck.