'79 Brake Problem
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,958
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From: Georgia
'79 Brake Problem
I have a problem with my brakes that I can't seem to figure out. At first I had air in my lines so the pads weren't releasing pressure off the rotors when I released the brake pedal. When I went to bleed the brakes I stripped the bleeder screw off one of the calipers. Anyway I installed the new caliper, bled the brakes and I still have no brake pressure, I mean the pedal goes to the floor. I took it on a test run around the block, gave it some gas, hit the brakes and the back tires locked up so the back seems to be working fine. I really don't know much about brakes but I was thinking it might be the proportioning valve? What do yall think?
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,554
Likes: 5,590
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
air in the lines will not make the brakes stay on. that is a collapsed hose or miss adjusted master cylinder pushrod.
if the lines are bled properly and only rear brakes, it is either a bad master or collapsed front line.
if the lines are bled properly and only rear brakes, it is either a bad master or collapsed front line.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Georgia
Alright, well I think it's a bad master cylinder.
Is this the right one?
Fenco Reman/Master Cylinder (Brake System) (M1854) | 1979 Ford F150 1/2 ton P/U 4WD 8 Cylinders A 7.5L 4BL OHV | AutoZone.com
Is this the right one?
Fenco Reman/Master Cylinder (Brake System) (M1854) | 1979 Ford F150 1/2 ton P/U 4WD 8 Cylinders A 7.5L 4BL OHV | AutoZone.com
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 4
From: Victoria , BC
Don't go manual. Why would you do that!
Did you get ALL the air out of lines? When I swap a new empty caliper I leave bleeder screw open and pump about 5 times just to get the initial fill of brake fluid to fill caliper then proceed with bleeding.
Did you get ALL the air out of lines? When I swap a new empty caliper I leave bleeder screw open and pump about 5 times just to get the initial fill of brake fluid to fill caliper then proceed with bleeding.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
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Chance's are your booster is shot, I have better brakes with out mine...
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 7,005
Likes: 2
Because Manual works much better for me... its not that big of a deal, just removed the booster, mounted the master cylinder to the firewall and cut down the rod and welded it up so it would let off pressure by about 3/8" and they work damn good, I can stop 38's just fine, and Power brake right on up better than i could before, Not to mention alot cleaner looking under the hood and the extra space...
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 4
From: Victoria , BC
Because Manual works much better for me... its not that big of a deal, just removed the booster, mounted the master cylinder to the firewall and cut down the rod and welded it up so it would let off pressure by about 3/8" and they work damn good, I can stop 38's just fine, and Power brake right on up better than i could before, Not to mention alot cleaner looking under the hood and the extra space...
Removing booster would be a downgrade.
I'm pretty sure your front brakes are full of air. I'd open bleeder on new caliper and pump a bunch of times getting the caliper filled.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,147
Likes: 1
From: Joppa, Maryland
^^He was saying the brakes were sticking on though. I'm thinking swollen up rubber line not letting fluid back out.. and now not allowing fluid either direction, making the front brakes not work. Maybe.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Georgia
The front brakes were sticking so I thought needed to bled the lines. They aren't sticking anymore. But I still don't have any brake pressure.
I'll bleed the front brakes again real good and if it does the same thing Imma buy a new master cylinder.
I'll bleed the front brakes again real good and if it does the same thing Imma buy a new master cylinder.
