Weird electrical issue, I'm not electrically gifted
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Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 79
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Weird electrical issue, I'm not electrically gifted
So I rewired my 67 F250 and when I first tried to start the truck it started but wouldn't shut off. I realized the alternator wasn't grounded so I did that but didn't try starting it and then I went to the manufactures website and spoke to a customer rep and tried one of their solutions... adding a diode from the exciter line... almost melted my gauges they actually started smoking. The painless guy said, "I'd take out the diode"...really, you think so. I removed the diode and reconnected the wire.
The truck did turn off at that point, I thought maybe it was the grounding of the alternator that did the trick. I did turn on and off the truck several times to see if it worked correctly and it did.
I decided to swap the tranny and some other stuff and now that everything is hooked back up THE TRUCK WON/T SHUT OFF AGAIN!!! I checked the wires again and every thing looks fine... what am I missing? Help please.
The truck did turn off at that point, I thought maybe it was the grounding of the alternator that did the trick. I did turn on and off the truck several times to see if it worked correctly and it did.
I decided to swap the tranny and some other stuff and now that everything is hooked back up THE TRUCK WON/T SHUT OFF AGAIN!!! I checked the wires again and every thing looks fine... what am I missing? Help please.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,396
Likes: 4
From: Cupertino
Pull the I terminal on the solenoid when the switch is off. If the thing keeps running you have messed up some wiring on the ignition switch.
I suggest you get a cheap voltmeter at Radio Shack. Something with a 0-15v dc scale.
Nobody on the phone to salesman is going to solve your problem.
The alternator has plenty of grounding through the bolt.
Your coil is getting volts through an unintended path, either from the solenoid I terminal or a miswired ignition switch.
I suggest you get a cheap voltmeter at Radio Shack. Something with a 0-15v dc scale.
Nobody on the phone to salesman is going to solve your problem.
The alternator has plenty of grounding through the bolt.
Your coil is getting volts through an unintended path, either from the solenoid I terminal or a miswired ignition switch.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2012
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CougarJohn, I wanted to let you know you were right on with the I terminal. First I pulled the ignition to make sure it was clean, then checked all the wires. The truck did start and stop several times and I thought I was moving on to the next project then suddenly back to no stopping. I rechecked the entire run from the solenoid to the dash and coil...everything was clean and right. I called Painless once again and finally got a man who listened and cared to help me, Tony. He asked a few questions and said put your volt meter on the I terminal and the block with the ignition off and if there's a reading your solenoid is bad. I said, "dude its brand new". He responded," dude...its bad". Classic, parts from Taiwan.
Fortunately I have a donor 67 so I pulled the crusty, rusty and dirty 46 year ols solenoid to see if the NEW one was really bad. Guess what, it starts and stops like a champ. I wish I had more parts like they made in America years ago.
Thank you again for your input it really helped.
Fortunately I have a donor 67 so I pulled the crusty, rusty and dirty 46 year ols solenoid to see if the NEW one was really bad. Guess what, it starts and stops like a champ. I wish I had more parts like they made in America years ago.
Thank you again for your input it really helped.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Tip of the Day: ALWAYS carry a spare solenoid... they're cheap and take up very little room. I recently used mine to repair my pal's 1987 MTD riding lawn mower... his $45 Taiwanese solenoid was bad right out of the box.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,396
Likes: 4
From: Cupertino
Good advice. Make that spare solenoid one that you have scavenged off the grubbiest old Ford you can find. This new Chinese crap is killing us. Even the old trusted US manufacturers have sold out. Do not trust anything out of the box.
Tip two about solenoids: The S circuit of the solenoid completes its circuit through the ground path which consists of a pair of self-tappers into the fender apron. These screws live in a bad environment with stuff splashing up into the fender well, especially if you live north and east. I have seen refusal to start from a lifted ground at this interface.
It is a good idea to lift the solenoid, drill out the old screw holes, retap 1/4-20 and rebolt after scrubbing up the grounding surface well. Even back the screws with a nut and cover with underseal.
Strange stuff can happen with grounds on this old iron.
Semper Fi
Tip two about solenoids: The S circuit of the solenoid completes its circuit through the ground path which consists of a pair of self-tappers into the fender apron. These screws live in a bad environment with stuff splashing up into the fender well, especially if you live north and east. I have seen refusal to start from a lifted ground at this interface.
It is a good idea to lift the solenoid, drill out the old screw holes, retap 1/4-20 and rebolt after scrubbing up the grounding surface well. Even back the screws with a nut and cover with underseal.
Strange stuff can happen with grounds on this old iron.
Semper Fi
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
Good advice. Make that spare solenoid one that you have scavenged off the grubbiest old Ford you can find. This new Chinese crap is killing us. Even the old trusted US manufacturers have sold out. Do not trust anything out of the box.
Tip two about solenoids: The S circuit of the solenoid completes its circuit through the ground path which consists of a pair of self-tappers into the fender apron. These screws live in a bad environment with stuff splashing up into the fender well, especially if you live north and east. I have seen refusal to start from a lifted ground at this interface.
It is a good idea to lift the solenoid, drill out the old screw holes, retap 1/4-20 and rebolt after scrubbing up the grounding surface well. Even back the screws with a nut and cover with underseal.
Strange stuff can happen with grounds on this old iron.
Semper Fi
Tip two about solenoids: The S circuit of the solenoid completes its circuit through the ground path which consists of a pair of self-tappers into the fender apron. These screws live in a bad environment with stuff splashing up into the fender well, especially if you live north and east. I have seen refusal to start from a lifted ground at this interface.
It is a good idea to lift the solenoid, drill out the old screw holes, retap 1/4-20 and rebolt after scrubbing up the grounding surface well. Even back the screws with a nut and cover with underseal.
Strange stuff can happen with grounds on this old iron.
Semper Fi
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