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Mild to moderate build

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Old May 6, 2013 | 01:30 PM
  #1  
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Milleraj30
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From: Yamhill, OR
Mild to moderate build

Now to try posting in the RIGHT forum!!

Hey guys,
I'm looking into a lot of the builds and project on this site and I have to say, I'm very impressed with what some of the guys on here have done! I currently have a '92 NA crewcab Nothing special but it's my 5th IDI and I love this truck. My question is what is a good mild to moderate build without sacrificing my day to day reliability these trucks are renowned for. (I know opinions on the matter will vary) I'm thinking the obvious is Turbo and head studs. I'll run up to about 15 psi, upgrade to 4" exhaust, intercooler. I'm kicking around a cam as well. Shoot 200 bucks or so and a better power band? Am I forgetting anything? It'll be towards the end of the year when I finally get back into the US for good and no more A-Stan. Thanks for the input guys and keep doing the research your doing!!


Current Stats. '92 F350 IDI N/A, Very built E4OD, CDR delete vented to exaust, BB injectors, Pump up just barely a flat, Pyro, Soon to be flatbedded to work better on our Oregon ranch.
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 01:40 PM
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90cc pump, studs, IC, upgraded turbo (a wheel at least or something like a A3k or S300), cam and fresh set of good injectors. Should put you around the 220-230 whp range. Would be just under what a stock 6.0 builds at the wheels.(iirc theyre rated at 325bhp) You should have it beat on torque.
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 01:43 PM
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From: Yamhill, OR
should I upgrade the pistons? i.e. bigger wrist pin pistons
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 02:07 PM
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86f250XLT-4x4
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Idk what options there are for bigger wrist pins but I do know that I haven't seen people with to many problems on here with them... But you are only going for a mild build I don't think stock wrist pins will be a problem
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 02:56 PM
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If you are rebuilding the engine, balance full rotating assembly is a must and good bearing clearences. From there the sky is the limit.
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 04:37 PM
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So far wrist pins dont seem to be a problem. Its alot harder to track down IDIt parts than it is NA parts. Wrist pins should really only be an issue if there is extreme cylinder pressure (lugging it under boost) or RPM, I would just run em, doesnt sound like you want a super build, just some respectable power to run with the newer trucks.

If you do full tear down, I 100% agree with xcite.
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 07:18 PM
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To be honest if your going to do it you might as well go all out. The diff between a 200rwhp truck and a 400rwhp truck isn't very much. Your already tearing it down and rebuilding so might as well just do it. Nmb2 has like 6k into his motor and to have a rebuild done back to stock is like 4k so I dunno I'd just go ***** deep. But hey that's just me a 200 hp idi is plenty of fun too. Good luck and please post the build.
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 11:50 PM
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Even if you don't go all the way like NMB2 and Racin have, a good rebuild on an idi can certainly take more than 15psi with studs. There are quite a few guys pushing into the mid 20s for boost with no issues. I would see what you can push with 90cc and max boost and then leave it there. It would be a good setup and will easily be within the limits of an idi. Also do you plan on using a stock type turbo or an upgraded unit? That will also make a huge difference in what you can get powerwise...
 
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Old May 7, 2013 | 01:06 AM
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Racins engine is stock inside. I wouldnt hesitate to run the mods i mentioned above on a used engine in good shape, no rebuild needed. but if you are rebuilding, i would have the block checked clean up the crank and bores, have it balanced, and stuff some new rings and bearings in it.
 
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Old May 7, 2013 | 03:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Fordidipower
To be honest if your going to do it you might as well go all out. The diff between a 200rwhp truck and a 400rwhp truck isn't very much.
It is and it isn't... True that if you put the supporting modifications in place (cam, studs, IC, intake and exhaust) it seems silly not to go all out since you have the hardware to support the air and fuel... but there is quite a jump in price to step up to a DB4 pump to fuel anything greater than the 90cc's of a maxed out DB2... Like $1,000 jump. Likewise, a turbo that can clear 90cc's of fuel is a fair bit cheaper than one that can clear up to 180cc's.

For someone considering at mild to moderate build, take a good hard look at those pumps and the power ceiling supported by each. Personally I think the choice is whether to work around a 90cc ceiling and see how much you can get out of that, or go all out with 180cc's and see how much you can get out of an IDI... period. This is about where I am at, and I am leaning toward the former due to budget and intended use. But that's just me. To some, another 1K or 2K into the build is no big deal and a no brainer just to have the power on tap just in case, but that is not my case, nor my advice...
 
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Old May 7, 2013 | 06:12 PM
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Another moderate pump would be the 120cc Db4 as well. That is still extremely safe but at the same time would still probably need a turbo upgrade. Racin is working on a stock turbo upgrade as well. Just some food for thought...
 
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Old May 7, 2013 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 88 Ford IDI
Another moderate pump would be the 120cc Db4 as well. That is still extremely safe but at the same time would still probably need a turbo upgrade. Racin is working on a stock turbo upgrade as well. Just some food for thought...
The thing with the 120cc is you spend the money for the 120cc pump, but you dont get the performance so to say. The 120cc is the same pump physically as the 150cc and 180cc, therefor costs the same. If hes just looking for moderate power, then IMO the 90cc is perfect, cheap, tried and true option.

When you step into DB4 territory thats where i draw the line of "go all out, or dont go"
 
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Old May 7, 2013 | 06:47 PM
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Well heres my thoughts. I currently have a NA 7.3 with less than 160,000 on it. Runs great a few minor mods just for ease of operation and longevity. Such as road draft, cold air intake (redneck styled a bit), New injectors and the pump turned up a smidge. Now I also have a complete 6.9 sitting in the back of the shop rotting. I figured I want to rebuild this thing and after reading a few of the project threads on it I thought, "well hell, if they can do it why can't I?"

So in short, I'm thinking about taking the 6.9 to the wild side. Even if it takes a little bit to do it. I'll post pics once I get it started.

P.S. still looking for a turbo kit for the 7.3 IN the truck.
 
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Old May 7, 2013 | 07:28 PM
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so drop the 90cc'r on the 7.3 with a turbo, and run down an 093 kit. Get ahold of ATS for an "IDI" A3k and grab one of racins 150cc pumps. Whack a little off the pistons stud it, balance it and gtg. you could shot peen and polish the rods, mahle has some thicker wrist pins if youre concerned about them. Snag an IC and one of racins intakes. At this stage whatever trans you have is going to need some love, either a clutch for the ZF or a build on the E40D.

You could also run a 180cc pump, however youre going to need something bigger than a A3K and im not sure if say a S366 will work on the ATS 093 kit so you might have to go custom at that point.
 
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Old May 7, 2013 | 07:58 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by hairyboxnoogle
so drop the 90cc'r on the 7.3 with a turbo, and run down an 093 kit. Get ahold of ATS for an "IDI" A3k and grab one of racins 150cc pumps. Whack a little off the pistons stud it, balance it and gtg. you could shot peen and polish the rods, mahle has some thicker wrist pins if youre concerned about them. Snag an IC and one of racins intakes. At this stage whatever trans you have is going to need some love, either a clutch for the ZF or a build on the E40D.

You could also run a 180cc pump, however youre going to need something bigger than a A3K and im not sure if say a S366 will work on the ATS 093 kit so you might have to go custom at that point.

a3k would do it, you would want a tunable wastegate with the small 093 housing, or step up to a .85 NG.
 
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