I know how much online personalities HATE newB questions... I'm not new online... I'm not new to Broncos (on #13 of them). I'm fairly new to FSBs though. Most of my Broncos were EBs with a couple of already "built" FSBs I had in passing.

Here's my current dilemma. I may be moving very soon to a land that gets more inclement weather then my current climate. In order to pass some of the terrain better, I'm planning on installing 33 or 35" tires. I'm currently on 31s.

1st question, what is the minimum requirement to get 33s under my 94 FSB?

2nd question, what is the minimum requirement to get 35s under my 94 FSB?

I'm NOT doing any rock crawling or anything fancy with this rig. Just dirt roads that may require higher clearance (not so much into flexing).

Thanks in advance.

And if you give me crap answers like "6" lift to clear 33s", I'm gonna call BS, I had 35s on a 4" lift on a 96 once. I did have to push the front bumper out 1" to clear the tires at full lock.

Thanks again...

 

I have 33's on my 94, just some light trimming due to the off-set of the wheels I have. You should be ok with spacing the bumper out.

 

That's what I was kinda thinking too. Looking at the clearances front and rear, it would appear that I could "squeeze" 33s fairly easily. Maybe some aftermarket rims with different offsets then my factory rims.

I don't want to go with a body lift for any reason. I'd consider spacers on my front springs w/ extended shocks and maybe blocks in the rear with longer shocks too. Maybe get 2" out of it? like I said, very little off road and most of that would be dirt roads/washes. I have absolutely NO desire to do any more rock crawling and breaking my daily driver. LOL!!!

 

33's you can run them stock height with a little bit of bumper trimming. With 35's id run at least a 4inch lift with extended radius arms to have no rubbing at full lock. Personally I like the look of a 6 inch lift on 35's but with that big of a tire you would want to jump to at least 4.10 gears.

 

Here's a pic of 33's with no lift. *note I did not move the bumper I trimmed the inside lip if you want a pic of how I did that I will be more then happy to take one and post it here for you just let me know.

and if you did decide to take her off-road and flex her out expect a little body damage right over the wheels "ask me how I know"

 

LOL... At least you didn't go to 4.56s right away. I have no idea what my current gear ratio is. But, I made do in a 99 TJ Sport with 3.07 gears and 35s. the 190HP I6 had plenty of power to turn the 35s on the highway while maintaining "decent" gas mileage at 75MPH. My Atlas II made the off road more gear ratio friendly.

In my Bronco, if I'm running 3.73s or 4.10s, I wouldn't change the gears to run the 35s. Since 95% of my use will be highway use, I'd rather have lower RPMs at highway speeds. I'd actually prefer 3.73s with the 5.8L V8 since it has quite a bit more HP/Torque then the 190 HP Jeep I once ran.

 

That looks nice. I'm not a big fan of body damage so, the 2" blocks may be the way to go. I do drive mine like I stole it and have been known to catch air on pavement. The landings could get a little rough.

 

33"s will fit with stock but will need bumper adjustments and maybe rims with a different offset

Usually by companies that produce the lift kits they will say:
32"s with 2.5" Lift
33"s with 4" lift
35"s with 6" lift

But like you said you can do 4" with 35"s
I did 2.5" with 33/12.50 on stock rims. All I did was space the bumper out about 1"
When I'm at full lock the tires do rub on the radius arms and steering stabilizer bar. I plan on getting 10" wide rims and a different offset so they wont rub.

So all in all if you want 33"s you can do it without a lift but you need to do some modification. Or you want a small lift with 33"s then do what I did and get a 2.5" lift

And 35"s you should get atleast a 4" lift. If you do 33"s you should get 4.11/4.10 gears.
35"s you should get 4.56 or 4.88

 

These guys pretty much covered it. Bumper movement is the biggest issue for 33's, but 35's... You *could* go through the hassle of a 4 inch lift, OR do the smaller less of a hassle 2" and just cram them suckers under there. Body damage would occur but considering you wouldn't want that, I'd go with the 35s. I've got 35's on my 78 with a 3 inch body lift, I hate the lift but it is the perfect height for me.

 

Gear swaps in these trucks are not just required for the math alone. The E4OD automatic has shift parameters determined by the VSS/ECM which has its excitor ring mounted behind the ring gear in the rear diff. So even if "you don't think it needs it" because of what you know of some other vehicle with similar tires size, engine size etc. The pre-programmed shift parameters will suck the life out of these trucks if you get too far from where the ECM is "expecting" to trigger shift points. Most full-seize Bronco's of that era rolled out of the factory with 3.55's unless they were ordered with 4.11's. 33's with 3.55's and either V8 mill will begin to stretch that limit especially if your new home has any significant hills to climb or you want any power to pass. Re-gearing also requires reprogramming of the PSOM or your speedometer and odometer will be inaccurate.

 

This. I am running 33's on 3.55 gears and Im dam near the floor when going up hills. With the trailer behind me forget it she has no *****. All this with a great running 5.8 never abused "to bad" I also am about 5 mph off on my speedo. When I do gear swap in the near future I will put 4.56 in her and jump up to 35's.

 

If you tow a trailer a lot skip the 4.56 and go to 4.88...4.56 is recommended with 35"s but if you pull a trailer a lot you would prob want to bump the ratio up

 

Thats good info. Thanks for sharing...