Wow. Great info. I would have to say I did see a decrease in mpg after removing the egr valve. I'm going to have to find it and put it back in. I don't remember if the fan worked more or less when I removed it. I never got an engine light for it though just a gray fault code.

 

Well keep reading on here

Will get it whiped into shape


Might be a Good Idea to do a Bubble test since you may have injector troubles with the contribe DTC

 

If you had a ScanGaugeII you could check into the Oil Cooler and Fan operation and even check the HPO System

Is the Only DTC the Contribe for #8??

 

I'm new to all this but learning the hard way.I bought this truck used. I've replaced 3 injectors (#2 4 & 6) deleted the egr, new map sensor, ipr, icp and all I needed to do was the dam ficm. Its been a rough and annoying road but I love the truck.

 

I hear Ya!!!

Best thing is to do what your doing and Post the Issue and all you know about it whether or not it seems relivant or not

and get a Gauge like a ScanGaugeII or DashBoss or Torq App A gauge alone will put you leaps and bounds ahead the Game and they always pay for themselves

 

I plan on finding my egr valve and putting it in. The hpo is working great. No drops in pressure. I'm going to replace the thermostat to see if its sticking. I've replaced 2 rads but never did the thermostat. I have the torque scanner for my android with a Bluetooth obd2 connector it reads a lot of things but not all. I get trans and coolant temp not oil temp as well as ficm, alt and battery volts, hoop, ipr, icp , vgt and iat2 so im limited to what I can monitor. I ran a scan after the boil over and I got contribution in 5 & 7 with the egr code which is normal cause it's not there.

 

IDK anything about Torq App

So let me see if I can get one of the Torq app Gurus to help us

Did you see what ECT was when all this happened???

 

When I noticed the temps rising it was 245. At about 253 is when the fan kicked on and I pulled over when it hit 270. I popped the hood and waited a couple of minutes and the temps started to drop. I pulled off the highway and turned off the truck and let it cool for about an hour got some coolant and put it in. I then left the parkinglot and got on the highway the temps never went over 212 while on the highway. When I got off I drove 4 miles stop and go and the temps went from 212 to 185.

 

So ECT was 270*??

If so and the ECT sensor is Good thats the highest ECT Iv ever seen

Check ECT vs TFT since you dont have EOT after 12 hour cold soak they should be same

At 221* ECT that fan should have sounded like a Jet Fighter engine Sounds like the EGR Valve being removed is really causing problems

You may have Warped the Heads that Hot

Also that Oil Cooler could be Plugged with the sludge in the coooling system need to check ECT vs EOT ASAP

Also Check Oil filter standpipe if EOT got around 300* it could be melted and once it melts the engine is Toasted


Would be best to stop driving it till some things are taken care of. With all thats come up here your very close to Scraping the Engine

 

Well I had a mechanic look at my truck. I have a coolant leak coming from the passanger head. Time for head bolts. It didn't start till after it overheated could the head have worped or headbolts just stretched. I did watch my oil temp rise reall fast just idling. Way off from the coolant temp

 

Im thinking with the tunner and Overheating it the bolts could have stretched or Warped heads.And honestly probably alittle of Both!!

Either way the Repair will go down the same!!!!!!

You need ARP studs with the tunner

and the heads need checked for Flatness

Also pretty safe to say the Oil Cooler is plugged since there has been sludge in the cooling system since the radiator went bad

Im thinking you need

Headgaskets

ARP Studs

Oil Cooler

Cooling system flush with VC-9 and thermostat removed for flush

ELC

New Thermostat

New Oring kits for ALL 8 Injectors
I also think it would be a Good Idea to check all injectors Proir to engine teardown so an Inject Bubble test is in Order here

Also might want to check the Front cover and water pump especialy if the truck ran less than 50/50 mix coolant or even straight water at any point during this as this will cause cavitation FAST and waterpump wont pump right in this condition

Turbo hardware Kit

Intake manafold gaskets

 

What is elc?

 

Extended Life Coolant


Lots of diffrent brands out there most meet spec maybe ALL IDK

You will need it rated
{CAT EC-1}

Some has silicates some does Not I chose one thats Silicate Free

The stuff in my sig below is called Final Charge I got it at Oreillys

If you look around you may find it cheaper International usually has a good deal and should have ELC Called Fleetrite what International used in ALL there 6.0L engine and rumors had it that less Oil Cooler failure with this ELC but IDK for shure I do know theres a bunch of us that run ELC with no further problems Iv ran ELC for Over 2 years now NO Issues

You will need 4 Gallons FULL STRENGTH Coolant

When cooling system is drained after the flushing we cant get all Water out so it takes 3.5-4 gallons full strength to get you to the 50/50 mix actualy be a touch strong but thats even better

 

I flushed cooling system then ran a coolant filter for awhile then did another round flushing and then changed my oil cooler

So far it looks like it paid off with all the flushing I did and running ELC

My ECT vs EOT spread is as good as the Day I put a new Oil Cooler in it

If you loook in my Pics theres a feew of my Oil Cooler Cut open it was Packed about solid with Casting sand

So I was glad I spent the time to do all that flushing and installing a coolant filter I had atleast 2 days into flushing all said and done

For the flush I pulled thermostat and did 3 diffrent rounds VC-9 Cleaners even stuffed a Hose in at every Cooling system port where a hose would connect and just let the hose Run in it for a few


SINCE you have Sludge in the cooling system you will need that restore or restore plus cooling system cleaner

One of the restore products is like VC-9 a Rust remover Boiler cleaner

But the Other is for Sludge removal it will break down the sludge so you can flush it out of there

Its Restore & Restore Plus I cant remember what one was for sludge removal

There is a great writeup in the tech folder and IIRC it will explain the diffrences in Both restore products

Here it is read this

*

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...1462686cooling system info
Here^^^

 

I had gotten ford coolant for the 6.0. Little expensive. So I can go with some non ford coolant. Good to know.