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I did. I was only fiddling with the right turn signal but the odds that I put in the other 6 all backwards seems pretty remote, doesn't it?
The right turn signal did show it was getting power via my multimeter.... I cleaned the contacts and switched the bulb with the left (which was working just fine.)
Also, flipped the left turn signal LED bulb and it worked both ways.
I know when I did mine, I had trouble with the LED seating properly in the little 194 plastic base. The little metal leads wouldn't sit properly, so there was no contact. Try looking closely at the metal leads at the LED base.
are you using dielectric grease on all of the contacts? this will sometimes help when you may have a little 'looseness' in a contact.
I use dielectric on every electric connection on my truck (fuses, lights, everything) as well as all of the light bulbs in my house. Ever try to unscrew a light bulb from a lamp and it is in there tight and the bulb snaps off? ****, right. Not if you put come dielectric grease in there!
It has to be a seating issue. If the original bulbs work, then that proves out the dash light fuse (which was going to be my first suggestion).
If you have a bench-top power supply, you might try making sure the bulbs are even good in the first place. If your multimeter has a diode checker, give that a try.
one more thought. Don't LED's required a relay since they draw different amounts of juice? you may want to check into that.
The only issue related to what you're talking about (in terms of LED current draw) is when LEDs are used in the turn signal circuit. LEDs draw much less current than their incandescent counterparts; in some cases it's not enough to actuate the thermal flasher. The solution is to use a shunt resistor to dump excess current and "fool" the thermal flasher, or replace it with an electronic flasher that has no minimum load current. There is no such relay required.
Again, this is only true of the turn signals. The dash illumination has nothing to do with this issue.
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