I've always wanted to learn how to weld and intend to teach myself enough to fix parts of the truck I'm restoring.

Which welder should I start with? I see at Lowes, Sears, Home Depot, Wally World, etc. that there are 115v welders available ($89 - $299). Are these sufficient for fender/floorboard repair/replacement?

Any suggestions as to which would be the best to buy and why?

I realize I'll have to practice on scrap metal for some time before attacking my truck -- no problem there!!!

Regards,
Bob

 

Try a proffesional welding supply store many will let you test drive welders before you buy some even offer lessons.

 

The easiest to start with and get good results fast would be a 115v wire feed. Flux cored wire eliminates the need for gas. They don't build up alot of heat either, not too expensive. Good luck.

 

this is one of those times where you tend to get what you paid for...

I went the cheapo flux core route... the thing laid some UGLY welds, and eventually the box plan crapped out on me!

I bought a gas shielded Miller 135 and haven't looked back... I thought I was bad at welding... nope, I had a crappy welder! a monkey on qualudes could lay a decent bead with this thing!

plan on spending ~$400-500 on welder/regulator/tank/helmet... it's better than spending $200-250 now and then $400-500 later when you have to buy a real welder.

Forrest

 

>a monkey on qualudes could lay a decent bead with this thing!

Do I know you?

Seriously, thanks for the advice. I'll nose about the stores this weekend.

Bob

 

I am new to all of this restoration stuff but for once I feel that I can offer something helpful. I too bought a cheap welder from Lowes. I t is a Campell Hausfield gas mig 115volt. It came with .035 diameter flux core wire. I was able to weld some 1/8 inch steel ok but not pretty. Bought an argon tank of gas and wire, makes even a better weld, but still not great.

I found a Tech school in Thomasville Ga. that has an instructor that told me to come up and he would give me a few pointers on MIG welding. After a few weeks of using his equipment he told me to bring my welder to class and he would see what it would do, since I was called it a piece of crap comapared to what I was using in his class.

After using my welder for a while the instructor was not happy with my welder. The manufaturer states that it will weld 1/4 inch steel with .035 wire. He welded some steel and placed it in a vise for a stress test, FAILED. He had me go get some .023 wire. After returnung with size wire he gave the welder a passing grade.

To make a long story short, and it was a long story, If I had it all over to do I would by a Lincoln or Miller 230 volt welder. Both run about $600.

Hope this helps.
Greg

 

To gbarger in your statement " It is a Campell Hausfield gas mig 115volt. It came with .035 diameter flux core wire." Did you reverse the polarity on your welder?? Sometimes when you purchase a new welder , the polarity needs to be switched. For either gas or flux core wire. Just so you know.

 

To walkhaulsey
My welder is labeled on the front on which polarity to use with which type of wire. The polarity for flux core, if I remember correctly it is negative tip, and for using gas it is positive.

The Campbell Huasfield welder is not a bad welder but if I had it all over to do I would have bought a Lincoln or Miller and most definatley it would be a 220 volt model.

 

I agree with you gbarger. The flux core welders are only good for welding outside where apperance is not an issue. I myself perfer the MillerMatic 250,or the Hobart Ironman 210 both are excellent welders.

 

and even then a good stick welder in capable hands would probably be the better choice!

 

Just another question:

Would brazing be just as effective? I have enough metal to lap the pieces an inch or so easily enough (floor panels, some fender patching).

It sure seems easier than the weld/grind/repeat method.

Bob

 

Bob
I am by far no expert, heck for that matter I probably don't anything. From what I have been told brazing would work. But I would be careful overlapping metal . especially on your fenders. You will need to put some type of sealer on the underside to keep moister from getting in between the over lapped joints.

I am sure some of the experts can help out better than my 1.5 cents.