Notices
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) Diesel Topics Only

camber woes

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 23, 2013 | 09:44 PM
  #1  
jaroh's Avatar
jaroh
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Graham wa
camber woes

So I replaced all the bushings, tie rods, bearings, ball joints and finally tires on the front end of my 94 4x4. I have taken it to get the alignment done and the best they can get the camber is -1.9. I already have adjustable camber bushings, but I am not sure what degree they go to. I have ordered a set through napa that are +/- 2 3/4 degrees even though the tech told me that the bushings were the max degree bushings you could get. From what the pictures look like on the napa web site I think the tech is a little confused on what is out in the aftermarket.

So do you think maybe the tech is correct or should I give it a go with the new bushings?

Also, can somebody tell me what the camber is supposed to be? Curious mind would like to know!!

Thanks, Duane
 
Reply
Old Apr 23, 2013 | 10:06 PM
  #2  
airdale94's Avatar
airdale94
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
From: Topeka,Ks.
It looks like the prefered spec is .25 degrees. With the range being -.75 to 1.25. It looks like 1 1/2 is the largest bushing available, but that might be just largest Ford makes. Is your other side that far out? You might have a bent spindle. Ask the alignment guy what your SAI (steering axis inclenation) is and Included Angle. These will tell you if you have something bent. If you replaced your ball joints it's not a ball joint stud. Did you get a printout of your befor and after specs.
 
Reply
Old Apr 23, 2013 | 10:16 PM
  #3  
jaroh's Avatar
jaroh
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Graham wa
I did not get a print out of what he was doing. I think if they make a printout then they will charge me. He worked on it for 1.5 hours and couldn't get them to come into spec. When I called him back to inquire what the truck was at now he said both sides were at -1.9 degrees. And surprisingly they didn't charge me anything for their time.

So I think I am going to get these new bushings and then take an old one our and compare the bushings. Then go from there. My main goal is to eliminate eating up a $1000 worth of tires.

Thanks, Duane
 
Reply
Old Apr 23, 2013 | 10:41 PM
  #4  
Red454sedgwick's Avatar
Red454sedgwick
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 0
Look at your front springs, they get broke down on these trucks, that could be part of your problem.
 
Reply
Old Apr 23, 2013 | 10:50 PM
  #5  
IDIDieselJohn's Avatar
IDIDieselJohn
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,005
Likes: 7
From: Ottawa, Ontario
X2, front leaf springs are probably tired.

New set of springs, or have those re-arched will cure your camber issues.
 
Reply
Old Apr 23, 2013 | 11:10 PM
  #6  
jaroh's Avatar
jaroh
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Graham wa
I am trying to learn here so forgive me if this question sound stupid.

If I put more arch into the springs which pushes the wheels down, won't the give me even more negative camber?

Thanks, Duane
 
Reply
Old Apr 24, 2013 | 12:36 AM
  #7  
twigsV10's Avatar
twigsV10
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,113
Likes: 4
From: Iowa
if you have twin traction beam it should be + if I'm remembering correctly , HD solid front axle won't matter.
 
Reply
Old Apr 24, 2013 | 05:42 AM
  #8  
bashby's Avatar
bashby
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 4
From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
positve camber is \ / neg is / \

are you talking about the f250 in your sig? is it 2wd or 4x4?
 
Reply
Old Apr 26, 2013 | 04:48 PM
  #9  
jaroh's Avatar
jaroh
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Graham wa
Follow up on what I did this morning.

I took it to a shop that was recommended to me by a couple of different people who had older vehicles. The old guy working in the pit had been working there for 30+ years and you could tell the toll it had taken on his body being in there. This place is old school working with bubbles and string!! Something I thought was long gone by now!!

So here are the before and after readings for the camber.

Left front 2+ right front 2 1/2+
after alignment
Left front 1.25+ right front 1 1/8 +

All in all it is tracking alot better down the road. I just need to see if the power steering box will adjust anymore. If not I will be taking it back to oriley's for a different remanufactured box and see if it is a little "tighter."
 
Reply
Old Apr 26, 2013 | 04:55 PM
  #10  
jaroh's Avatar
jaroh
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Graham wa
I forgot some other items. I used 2 3/4 degree shims on both sides to get it this close. For now it is close enough.

Both shops also asked if I had a lift kit on it. Which the answer was no. Both shop said I needed to get a dropped down pitman arm as they say the angle for the tie rods could be better. I guess I will find a pitman arm and get the toe back to close and then get my money back out of firestone for my lifetime alignment!!

Duane
 
Reply
Old Jun 6, 2013 | 10:05 PM
  #11  
mackdog's Avatar
mackdog
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: Pass Christian Mississipi
Question

I've been having a similar problem for a number of years now. It's a 1992 F 250 diesel 4x4, dana 50 front axle, and with what I believe is a tough country lift kit. I don't know for sure because it was set up that way when I got it. It has a tough country sticker on the back window and heavier than normal leaf springs and that's about all that I know for sure. I got this truck in early 2005 and put about 80,000 miles on it. The WHOLE time it has wore through tires faster than normal. Especially on the drivers side. I originally thought that it was just ball joints, but lately I have been reading on forums and other places on the internet, and I believe that it has positive camber due to the lift kit being installed years ago. The tires have always worn on the outside edge, and the drivers side is always worse than normal. I really don't think its a toe in problem because when you step back and look at the front of the truck, and focus on the front and back wheels together, you can see that the front wheels lean outwards at the top. So I guess my question would be....how would I go about adjusting the camber and getting it back into alignment once and for all if its lifted? If someone could help, that would be awesome. It's been difficult trying to find information on the internet. I can even post some pictures if I need to...
 
Reply
Old Jun 6, 2013 | 10:11 PM
  #12  
84-6.9L's Avatar
84-6.9L
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 0
From: Princeton MN
Check the pivot bushings in the center they can and will cause alot of camber issues when they get wore. lay under it and have someone turn the wheels and see if there is any movement there.
 
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mike1376
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
Mar 3, 2018 07:59 PM
timbersteel
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
10
Feb 22, 2016 08:57 AM
JonathanN
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
9
Apr 3, 2012 02:40 PM
mechelement
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
5
Sep 4, 2010 11:53 AM
wick246
Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels
3
Apr 16, 2004 05:23 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:05 AM.