8.8 Rear disc...
used 80s GM 1/2ton d44 caliper bracket and caliper, 2000 silverado rear hoses(GM went metric on banjo bolts), and ford f150 front rotors. Had to grind flange( only thing I didn't care for).
Started raining before I could drive it but bled system out pedal was little spongy so either smaller piston calipers, upgrade master/booster to 250. I will run it around the yard first before it sees the road to decide if I need to do more.
And before you start on it, I did not want to run a explorer rear brake set up, non vented rotor I just don't like the idea, and the no parking brake, If it comes down to it I will run the elderado calipers but preventive maintenance checks give tell tale signs of things happening and if all else fails downshift or go R for emergency.
Anyone else run this set up and end up with spongy pedal?
Curtis
Stopping distances much improved, it is wet out takes a lot of effort to get the rears to kick abs. simple set up just didn't care for removing material from flanges but it is what it is. Grand total invested less than $200.
Ebrake... looking at using a pinion mounted small disc, just big enough so instant locking won't be a issue. Unlike most inboard drum ebrakes that seperate lock tires up owner removes them and never thinks about it again. Yes I have seen this A-LOT. Here in MI emission checks safety checks that is well up to you, state does not care.
Curtis
Swap was easy just didn't like having to cut axle flange down to get rotor on, but after seeing some of the odd ball stuff swaps I am running it. only thing I should have done is used a set of 94-96 rotors instead height is shorter, 9" guys say 77-93 and they go right on their flanges no machining or grinding. The calipers for this set up cost couple bucks more than the wheel cylinders
. Curtis





