Lower Control Arm Torque Specs 2001
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Lower Control Arm Torque Specs 2001
Going to replace my front lower control arms tomorrow and am looking for the torque specs for the three bolts. I've found references, but they seemed to contradict each other. Terminology is also key, so here are the positions I'm looking for:
1. Lower Ball Joint Pinch Bolt
2. Rear Body Bolt (the large round bushing where the bolt goes straight up towards the seat or top of the car, located towards the rear of the car).
3. Front Hinge Bolt (Bolt that installs horizontal to floor of car and is located almost under the engine).
Replaced these about 18 months ago, and didn't use a torque wrench, thought maybe I over tightened or under tightened and cause premature wear. Anyway, any help would be appreciated.
Slotguy
1. Lower Ball Joint Pinch Bolt
2. Rear Body Bolt (the large round bushing where the bolt goes straight up towards the seat or top of the car, located towards the rear of the car).
3. Front Hinge Bolt (Bolt that installs horizontal to floor of car and is located almost under the engine).
Replaced these about 18 months ago, and didn't use a torque wrench, thought maybe I over tightened or under tightened and cause premature wear. Anyway, any help would be appreciated.
Slotguy
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,716
Likes: 15
From the 2010 shop manual, probably has not changed over the years:
Pinch bolt's nut - 46 ft. lbs.
Control arm Forward bolt - 85 ft. lbs.
Control arm rearmost bolt - 110 ft. lbs.
Like most control arms, the control arm bolts with bushings must be tightened ONLY at ride height. With car on ground on wheels, measure distance from center of hub to lip of fender above it. This is the ride height.
On re-assembly, screw in the control arm bushing bolts but don't torque them down yet. Then either lower the car to rest fully on its wheels and THEN tighten the bolts to spec, or, raise the control arm with a jack up to the previously-measured ride height, and THEN torque to spec.
This is very common on control arm bushings. The bushing rubber needs to be at the neutral (normal ride-height) position before they are locked down. NOT doing this, instead torqueing them to spec with the control arms hanging down unloaded, will twist the rubber badly when the car is lowered onto its wheels (at normal ride-height, the bushings would be twisted). Rubber bushings do not last long when pre-twisted like that.
Pinch bolt's nut - 46 ft. lbs.
Control arm Forward bolt - 85 ft. lbs.
Control arm rearmost bolt - 110 ft. lbs.
Like most control arms, the control arm bolts with bushings must be tightened ONLY at ride height. With car on ground on wheels, measure distance from center of hub to lip of fender above it. This is the ride height.
On re-assembly, screw in the control arm bushing bolts but don't torque them down yet. Then either lower the car to rest fully on its wheels and THEN tighten the bolts to spec, or, raise the control arm with a jack up to the previously-measured ride height, and THEN torque to spec.
This is very common on control arm bushings. The bushing rubber needs to be at the neutral (normal ride-height) position before they are locked down. NOT doing this, instead torqueing them to spec with the control arms hanging down unloaded, will twist the rubber badly when the car is lowered onto its wheels (at normal ride-height, the bushings would be twisted). Rubber bushings do not last long when pre-twisted like that.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Torky2,
Thanks for the quick response. Got the control arms changed today, and torqued all bolts as recommended and at ride height. I think it was more the ball joint than the bushings, but doesn't matter any more, rides like a new one, and my wife is happy the clunking is gone. Changed out the sway bar links too just cause they're cheap and I've already changed them twice before because of clunking.
Again, thanks for the info, just what I needed.
Thanks for the quick response. Got the control arms changed today, and torqued all bolts as recommended and at ride height. I think it was more the ball joint than the bushings, but doesn't matter any more, rides like a new one, and my wife is happy the clunking is gone. Changed out the sway bar links too just cause they're cheap and I've already changed them twice before because of clunking.
Again, thanks for the info, just what I needed.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,511
Likes: 8
From: hinckley ohio
I changed mine out with ones from carquest auto parts.Within 8 months the ball joints where worse then the ones I took out with 160,000 miles on them.2nd time I bought them from Ford like $80.00 a piece put over 25,000 miles on them now and still good.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Yeah, I can't remember, what brand I bought last time, but pretty sure they were cheaper as the car is only driven a short distance everyday to work and back and I figured they woud last as long as I'm going to own the vehcle, that's why I found it hard to believe that the ball joints were bad. As I said in my post, I changed almost everything (struts, springs, sway bar links, tie rod ends, complete brakes including rotors, and calipers, even an axle) under the front end 18 months ago chasing down a clunking noise. I figured after all of that i"m golden, until the clunking came back. Once I got the control arms off, I couldn't believe how bad the ball joints were, they aere able to freely flop around, and had play up and down, just glad they didn't let go going down the road. Hopefully the new ones will last a bit longer, thanks for the info.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
From: PA
DIY Tips - Control Arm replacement
Anyone have DIY key tips on replacing the complete Control Arm Assembly?
I'm going to do Driver and Pass side, since I'm doing it...
I have 2005 Escape AWD 3.0L...
Going to tackle it myself as shop wanted $650 for both sides.
Thanks Forum...
I'm going to do Driver and Pass side, since I'm doing it...
I have 2005 Escape AWD 3.0L...
Going to tackle it myself as shop wanted $650 for both sides.
Thanks Forum...
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,511
Likes: 8
From: hinckley ohio
I would recommend buying them from Ford. I would soak the bolts down with some good penetrating oil There are some peple who broke a bolt. I would also get a front end alignment when done.Pretty easy job if all goes good.
Trending Topics
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
From: PA
I read several threads here and saw one comment about torqueing bolts at ride height, vs unloaded on a jack, to eliminate "pre-twist" in bushing. Thoughts?
I bought the MOOG assemblies, complete. I've had good success with their aftermarket parts so will try these for a substantial savings over Ford.
Ditto on the p-oil...will do this over 2-3 days. Car is 2005, ~115k miles.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Ford Super Duty: 5 Things Owners LOVE, 5 Things They LOATHE!
Joe Kucinski
Every 2026 Ford Truck Engine RANKED from WORST to FIRST!
Michael S. Palmer
The Best F-150 Deal of Every Trim Level (XL through Raptor)
Joe Kucinski
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Rusty_S
Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels
4
Feb 18, 2013 03:53 PM
sdetweil
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
6
May 8, 2009 11:51 AM
