throttle problem...I think
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throttle problem...I think
When I have the gas pedal in I guess the cruise position my truck acts like it's running out of gas but if I step on the pedal it accelerates w/ no problem. Recently when this happens the engine light comes on for about 10 seconds then turns off. Is this like a sensor problem or something? Any Ideas?
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From: Central Florida, USA
throttle problem...I think
Hey Slapshot, this question is like being asked what does 12 X __ = ? Not enough information. What kind of truck? what year? engine? transmission? Please try to describe what is happening in more detail and we will be glad to suggest a solution.
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throttle problem...I think
Sounds like it could be your TPS, throttle position sensor, or your throttle body. You basically have a big resistor and as you change your throttle position, it contacts along that resistor and varies the voltage. Anyway, the part where you run the most can get worn out and you have probably created an open circuit in that area so when your throttle is there, no voltage gets back to the ecm so it thinks it should be at idle and cuts the fuel down. As the other guy said, you didn't provide enough info about your engine to know what type of fuel system and throttle system you have. Hope this helps.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Central Florida, USA
throttle problem...I think
Slapshot, try running the truck at the same speed without the cruise control engaged (cruise control is like an auto-throttle for surface vehicles). If it's the TPS the problem should occur at the same spot on the sensor whether the cruise control is on or off. Be very steady with your foot as the bad spot on the TPS may be small. The TPS is easy to replace (2 screws and an electrical connector after you get the throttle body off the engine) and will cost about $35.
If it doesn't act the same your trouble may be your cruise control servo. There is a vacuum line (among other things) connected to the servo that you could check for leaks. The servo is located on the driver side on the engine compartment right under the hood counterbalance spring and on the wheel well side of the brake master cylinder.
If it doesn't act the same your trouble may be your cruise control servo. There is a vacuum line (among other things) connected to the servo that you could check for leaks. The servo is located on the driver side on the engine compartment right under the hood counterbalance spring and on the wheel well side of the brake master cylinder.
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throttle problem...I think
I'm trying to decide if I can replace the TPS on my '92 F150, 302. Am I right in thinking that after I remove the 4 main bolts and the bracket that attaches the throttle to the manifold, and plug a coolant line, I'll have enough slack to replace the TPS?
Thanks, Chuck
Thanks, Chuck
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Central Florida, USA
throttle problem...I think
You will need to disconnect the throttle linkages and idle air control sensor too. The clips on the linkages make that part easy and the connector for the IAC is the same as on all the others under the hood. Don't forget to clean the IAC while you have the throttle body off your engine. Also look inside the manifold and ensure that the EGR return openings are clear. I have the shop-vac running while tinkering around in this area so any dislodged pieces come out the intake instead of into the engine.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Central Florida, USA
throttle problem...I think
I think I should add that the unit will now come out in your hand. This is not a real hard thing to do. Just pay attention to the details and you should be fine. It is far easier to unclip the throttle lines (one from the pedal and one from the crusie control servo) than disassemble the plate onto which they attach. Some of the pieces are plastic and may be brittle due to age so some care should be taken. Remember the gaskets too. Air leaks in this area cause very high ideling so get replacement gaskets and good quality RTV or permatex form-a-gasket for the reassemble. This really shouldn't take more than 45-60 minutes including cleaning the IAC and EGR return. The good news is that no special tools are required.
Any other ideas?