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Hello, I have a 1988 fullsize Bronco with the 8.8 rear end. Long story short, the person I bought it from broke the bolt that holds the pin (the one that you remove to get the shafts out) and welded it back on to keep it in place. He also ran it without any fluid in it and now I need bearings, they howl like mad. The local place says it will cost $1000 for a complete rebuild. In that case I'm wondering if it would be better to buy a new one since I'm scared to buy one from the junk yard. I just need a stock one since I don't off-road. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where to buy an axle??? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks and sorry for the book...
I know you said that you didnt want junkyard stuff, but you would be suprised. You could pick one up for around 2-3 hundred that would bolt right up. and at least get you buy for a couple more years, just replace the fluid and seals and bearings and your off. you could even move your rear brakes over from your busted up rearend.
Junkyards aren't bad, I have found alot of good pieces for my 78' Bronco in the yards and around that year goes fast. But if your that against the yards you can try ebay motors I have found tons of used stuff for alot cheaper than anywhere else. Just make sure the seller is close enough, so you can pick it up or else your going to have quite the shipping costs. Thought about going to a 9" if it works it will probably be easier to find.
I use junkyard parts on my truck, and it runs great (except for the recent transmission ). If you can see the truck the axle comes from, you can be much more confident of its condition. Plus, they'll give you at least a 30-day warranty, which is plenty enough time to pull the rear cover and inspect it for wear.
You can look in my signature link at all the junk parts I've installed, and there's an album of my recent rear axle buildup & swap.
(Yes, the site is finally back up. )
Thanks for the suggestions. I think I'll give it a try. Now I just hope the brake lines and stuff will come off. Does anyone know how to check the gear ratio without spinning the wheel and counting. On the door panel it says "19" for axle. Thanks!
That's a 3.55 open diff, but check the axle tag, too. The second line should say "3 55" right beside the bolt that retains it. If it says "3L55", then someone has swapped in an axle with a limited slip diff.
If the tag is missing, you'll either have to count revs or open the cover and look at the numbers stamped into the edge of the ring gear. Some have the ratio stamped, and others have the tooth-counts.
The front diff SHOULD have a ratio 0.01 lower (numerically) than the rear, and it should have a similar tag. But the missing tag indicates your diff has been opened before, so I wouldn't believe anything but a visual inspection. You might be able to see the ring gear numbers through the ABS sensor hole on the top or the fill plug on the front. That would save you from having to open it yet, since you lose all the oil.
OK, I went to the junk yard and they have a 3.55 from a '91 F-150. It has a different style yoke coming out of the pumpkin, it's a plate that the drive shaft must bolt to instead of the yoke that the u-joint hooks up to (this must be to eliminate the u-joints). The person at the yard said I could just switch the plate one with the one out of my existing axle. Is this true? Will I have to mess with the bearings or anything? Is there anything special I should do to do this? Thanks
That's a "flange", and it's just a different (and better) way of attaching the u-joint. I recommend buying a companion flange for your driveshaft, and keeping the flange on that axle. It's only ~$15 at FleetPride and is MUCH better for the u-joint than the u-bolts. You can see me converting mine in these pics. You will need a different U-joint there, but it never hurts to change them and a decent lifetime one is only ~$20. It's much better than pulling the pinion nut and losing the bearing preload.
I paid $225.00 for a COMPLETE rear axle assembly WITH Brakes a few months ago....... came out of a junk yard off a front end totalled truck. Anyways, go the junkyard route, you'll be happy you did it.
OK, got an axle from the junk-yard $350.00 seems to be the price around here (1991 F-150). I got the companion flange at the dealer (only place I could find one in stock) and I went to get the u-joint and they are different from the 88 Bronco to the 91 F-150. I bought the one for the Bronco, half is clipped on the outside, half are clipped half-way down the cap. Do you think this is the correct one? I haven't pulled the old axle out of the Bronco yet (after work today) so I guess I'll just have to try it and see. What do you use to clean out the differential, I drained the lube and am going to add new?
Paper towels. Don't put any solvents in it, or you could affect the seals. The fill plug probably has a magnet in it, so clean it and the ABS sensor before refilling. I find it MUCH easier to fill thru the sensor hole than thru the fill plug hole.