When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Was driving to my G/F's house the other day and I noticed the truck started shifting hard and the overdrive off light was flashing. I have googled and read post after post and everyone seems to be different.
My speedo is working so that would rule out a sensor, right?
I don't have a code reader but am going to see if I can borrow one tomorrow to see if I can pull codes.
I checked the fluid tonight (cold and at idle) and it was right on the "C" on the dipstick. Fluid is a nice red and doesn't smell burnt. (Changed about 10K miles ago).
What am I missing?
Thanks guys,
Travo
PS- Going to be driving the M1009 to work until I can get this one up. I don't want to frag the transmission.
OH! And, yes this is the factory original transmission with 301,500 miles on it.
Was driving to my G/F's house the other day and I noticed the truck started shifting hard and the overdrive off light was flashing. I have googled and read post after post and everyone seems to be different.
That is because there are about 50 different reasons that the overdrive light can flash. Reading the codes is the ONLY way to know what's wrong.
Originally Posted by Mr.travo
My speedo is working so that would rule out a sensor, right?
Wrong. It rules out the vehicle speed sensor, but no other sensor.
Originally Posted by Mr.travo
I checked the fluid tonight (cold and at idle) and it was right on the "C" on the dipstick. Fluid is a nice red and doesn't smell burnt. (Changed about 10K miles ago).
That was a meaningless exercise. Checking the fluid cold doesn't mean a thing. It could mean that it is overfilled, underfilled, or right on. It is definetly one of those, but you can't tell which from a cold reading.
And the overdrive light won't flash from low fluid.
Originally Posted by Mr.travo
What am I missing?
You're missing reading the codes. Without the codes all anyone can do is guess.
Thanks Mark. I figured. I am just trying to be proactive while I am waiting for the code reader. Never used one before but I am no dummy and it should be pretty straight forward. Thank you for taking the time to post up about it. I knew when I bought the truck that the transmission would be on it's way out the door, but with no warning or slipping I figured it would of made it until at least the end of this summer. I hope that it is something simple(r) than a rebuild. I am just thankful that I have more than one truck I can drive while it is down. I will post up as soon as I can get a code.
P1728 is a transmission slip code. That means that something is slipping when the trans is in fourth gear with the torque converter locked. Most of the time it is the torque converter lockup clutch that is slipping. The only way to fix that is to replace the torque converter.
Sorry for the lag in commo here. My question would be how hard is the TC to replace? I have pulled transmissions (auto and manual), replaced manual trans clutch, and other things, so that doesn't scare me. How hard is the TC to remove and replace once it's dropped?
I WILL be going with a better TC than stock if I can save the bucks and do it myself. I also believe I read something about you saying to replace the valve body assy as well because of shavings thrown through there once it starts slipping? Please correct me if I'm wrong.
All in all- I want the best bang for my buck. I am not fond of turning my trucks over to people (I am very particular) and would prefer to do it myself as long as I don't require very many special tools.
I don't remember ever saying that you should replace the valve body when replacing a torque converter. I don't see why that would be necessary.
Once the trans is out the torque converter just slides off the splines. Nothing holds it in place.
Installing the new one is only slightly harder. The trans needs to be stood on end with the bellhousing up. Slide the torque converter onto the shaft and start rotating. As it engages the splines it will drop down. Once the converter is below the front face of the bellhousing it is all the way down. If you install the trans before getting the converter all the way seated you will destroy the converter and the pump.
Mark,do you also recommend replacing the teflon ring on the stator shaft when doing a converter? I have been told to so, I did.Is that correct?not needed?
Sorry Mark, I must of misread that off another site, thought it was you. Ok, so that's simple enough, no sweat there.
What DOES happen to all the metallic shavings that are pushed through the system when a TC is wearing out? Is it ALL pushed into the filter or is there something else that can implode? (LOL!)
Bottom line- I am wanting to pull this tranny once so if there is anything else I need to be doing in there while I'm at it, I would appreciate your advice. When I did my injectors, I wish I went ahead and pulled my injector cups too! I just hope I dont get a leak in one, LOL! Same principle in my mind.
You wont hurt it by servicing it. If you pull the pan,then you can clean and inspect and replace the filter.
That is exactly what happend to mine...50k ago.converter,service.good to go!
Mark,do you also recommend replacing the teflon ring on the stator shaft when doing a converter? I have been told to so, I did.Is that correct?not needed?
Yes, you should replace the seals on the shafts. They all wear and don't cost much at all.
Originally Posted by Mr.travo
What DOES happen to all the metallic shavings that are pushed through the system when a TC is wearing out? Is it ALL pushed into the filter or is there something else that can implode? (LOL!)
What metal shavings? If there are metal shavings then there is a problem. Torque converters usually don't produce metal shavings, though it can happen. The filter will catch most of those, the rest will be in the coolers or the pan.
Same darn thing happened to mine last summer. Same code and everything. I definitely would recommend doing a trans rebuild while you have it out and since you dont want to have to do this in 6 months. In my opinion, Besides the the TC, I would swap in some steel planetary gears instead of the aluminum that came stock. I put Kevlar clutches in mine and the thing grabs like a baby to a tit. I also slid a bigger valve body on since I do alot of towing and shifting under load.
In hindsight however, if I could do it all over, I would swap in a ZF5. Just some things to go over before you bolt her back in. Good luck man!
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.